DIY Welding Project: Rolling Car Stands | MillerWelds

DIY Welding Project: Rolling Car Stands [Guide]

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For times when your lift is occupied, consider building your own tall jack stands on wheels with a little help from Andy.

SKILL LEVEL: Beginner

TIME COMMITMENT: 4 hours

Here's what you'll need to get started.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Miller® Multimatic® 220 AC/DC multiprocess welder
Swivel toolbox castors (7" tall) (4)
3/16" square tubing (2-1/2" square for the front and 2” x 3” for the rear)
3/16" flat plate for mounting pads
.030 Hobart ER70S wire
Hand drill or drill press
Angle grinder
7/16" x 5" bolts, lock nuts and washers

3/8" x 1" bolts, nuts, washer and lock washers (16) (to mount castors to the mounting plates)

3/8" and 7/16" drill bits  

Band saw or chop saw 

Rivet nuts (2) 

Hand rivet nut setter 

Machinist blocks 

WARNING: READ AND FOLLOW ALL LABELS AND THE OWNER'S MANUAL.

STEP BY STEP

Operator cutting the extension tubes.

STEP ONE:

Determine the height you want the rolling jack stands to be off the ground, and cut the extension tubing and castor-mounting pads. My extension tubing is 14-1/2" and the flat plate for mounting the pads is 4" x 4-1/2".

Operator drilling holes in the plates.

STEP TWO:

Center punch and drill mounting holes in the castor plates using 3/8" bolts. Grind the mill scale off the plates and tubes in preparation for welding.

Operator welding the mounting plate to the extension tube.

STEP THREE:

For the front frames, weld the castor mounting plates to the 2-1/2" square extension tubes using the Multimatic 220 AC/DC in Auto-Set™ mode for 3/16". I only welded a 1-1/2" to 2" weld on each side.

Operator drilling the hole through the saddle and frame.

STEP FOUR:

Using the same 3/16" flat plate that you made the mounting pads out of, make two saddles that will fit tightly around the front two frame rails. Drill a 7/16" hole through both the saddle and the frame rail and put the 7/16" x 5" bolt through it.

Welder just finished welding the flat plate to be used as a saddle.

STEP FIVE:

Frame mounts for the rear of my car are not as wide or thick as those for the front, so they will be built differently. I used the same 3/16" flat plate and TIG welded the corners. Since I had a hole already in the frame, I am attaching it using two 3/8" rivet nuts on each side. You can do that or attach it just like we did in step 4.

Operator welding the mounting plate to the extension tube.

STEP SIX:

Because my rear frame is smaller, I am using the 2” x 3” square tubing and attaching it to the saddle.

Operator attaching the castors to the mounting plates./Finished rolling car stands on the car frame.

STEP SEVEN:

Assemble the four castors to the four mounting plates, and then attach the rolling car stands to the car frame.

About Andy Weyenberg

Andy Weyenberg headshot
Andy Weyenberg began welding at his father’s business a few years before joining the Army. After going to school for Electro-Mechanical, he started working for Miller Electric Mfg. LLC as a technical service rep and training instructor. Andy has built and raced stock cars since he was a teenager — and now builds high-performance street vehicles while also managing the Miller motorsports program.
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