DIY Welding Project: Elephant Wheel Stands [Guide]

STEP ONE:

Cut five 19" x 48" pieces of your 4' x 8' sheet of 5052 aluminum and then trim four of them to 35". Save all the drop-off from this sheet. Everything will be used.

STEP TWO:

Measure and cut the last 19" x 48" piece into four pieces. If you choose to bend two of your sides, cut them 10-1/16" x 19" to compensate for the bend radius. If you choose to cut and weld all sides separately, cut them to 10" x 19". Remember to cut your extra/drop-off pieces to  the exact same measurement.

STEP THREE:

On your 35" pieces, mark 10" in on both ends. Then from your 10" lines, mark 2", giving you 15" between the lines. 

STEP FOUR:

Take your ruler and mark the outside corners of the 19" sides to your 2" marks, creating an angle. Then draw a straight line between each 2" mark on the 10" lines. These are your cut lines encompassing two sides and the top of the elephant stand.

STEP FIVE:

Use your bandsaw, reciprocating saw or jigsaw to cut the pieces out.

STEP SIX:

Take your 10" x 19" side pieces and mark 2" in from each corner of the top 19" sides. Using your ruler, draw a line from the 2" marks to the bottom corners and cut it off. You should now have 15" length on the top side and 19" on the bottom.

STEP SEVEN:

Take your Spectrum 625 or 375 X-TREME plasma cutter and cut holes, which will allow the stand to weigh less and make it easier to carry. I cut a 3-1/4" hole in the middle and one 2-1/4" hole on each side, centered on the plate. A hole saw would also work but it would be much slower.

STEP EIGHT:

Debur and clean the holes using a small flat disc, flap wheel grinder or belt sander. Then slightly round the top corners of the side plates.

STEP NINE:

Using your metal bending tool or brake, bend the sides of the stands at the 15" marks to about 

78 degrees. 

STEP TEN:

Place your sides along the stand without fully overlapping the pieces. Once you have a good 

fit, use duct tape to help hold the seams together. Remember to remove the tape quickly after tack welding and use acetone to get rid of 

any tape residue.

STEP ELEVEN:

Using your Multimatic 220 AC/DC, start welding the top joint and then the sides. I’m using 3/32" ER-5356 filler metal and the machine is set to 120 amps, 90 Hertz on frequency and 72% on balance.

STEP TWELVE:

Be sure to put a 2" weld on the bottom inside corners.

STEP THIRTEEN:

Using your miter band saw set at 12 degrees, cut and fit two pieces of the 1" x 1" square tubing to fit under the top. Mine measured 15-5/16" long. If you formed your sides in a brake, like I did, you will need to grind a round edge on each end of the square tubing to have clearance and fit inside the corner bends. 

STEP FOURTEEN:

Place your square tubing inside and centered about 6" from the sides of the stand. Clamp them in tightly against the top plate and either TIG weld into place or use a spool gun. They don’t have to be welded solid. I did three 2" to 3" welds on both sides of each tube and the ends.

STEP FIFTEEN:

Using the 8" x 19" drop-off piece, measure and cut eight pieces of 2-1/4" x 8". These will be tire stops in case the vehicle rolls on the stands. 

STEP SIXTEEN:

Weld the stops extended halfway over the top (1" to 1-1/8"). Put a 2" to 3" weld on the inside and then weld the outside corners. 

STEP SEVENTEEN:

Finally, the last drop-off of your 4’ x 8’ sheet is about 3" wide, so cut 16 2" x 3" pieces and bend them in half at a 90-degree angle. Once welded on, make sure no welds extend past the bottom edge. Grind or file them flush if needed.

STEP EIGHTEEN:

These elephant stands can hold up to 4,000 pounds. Be sure to know your vehicle weight, and use thicker material for heavier projects.