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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Pahrump NV
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    9

    Default Shopmaster 300 & HF 251D TIG please help with set up for ALUM

    Hi Picked up the shop master a year ago been playing with it off and on ever since finally figured out how to Tig weld 18 gauge sheet metal for my car with it & can lay a nice bead on bench not so pretty on car lol oh well im learning. Ok well I figured out the Tig for steal so now I wanna figure out this AC deal of it on Aluminum.............................. SON OF A $%$#$%#$@#$@ thats hard or my welders junk! Naw last couple tries finally had me kind of laying out a bead staying shiny with out digging out the aluminum but now I am out of scrap Alum need to go find more and IM almost out of a big bottle of Argon already. See if this sounds right keep in mind I dont know squat about welding. HF set freq at about 65-70 current about 45-50 dig control set at 0 all on peddle not much to that machine kind of like using howitzer cannon for plinking. 3/16 alum sheet diamond plate and 3/16 filler rod pure tungsten 1/16 rod short #6 cup 15cfh pure Argon, Most all my welds look BLACK and look like some one dug them out of the alum with a Pick and hammer UGLY UGLY UGLY then out of now where I tried again as above and boom laid down 3 nice looking shiny beads but I cant add any rod to it just plops out and dies in blob never pools into a bead. I read in one of my manuals that came with the equipment it says on SOME machines Dig control is the Balance control when used in AC mode ON SOME MACHINES is the Shop Master that way? cause right now all I have is current and frequency to adjust ? Also Because of way machine doesn't want to lay down a bead is it possible machine is not hooked up right? could my ground be wrong? I believe I have machine set up with it set up DCEN and if my understanding is correct when I want to weld Aluminum I just switch the switch to AC and for steal back to GTAW and dont have to swap any cables or am I wrong???? and if im not wrong I bet something is wrong with my equipment. Thanks for any and all help in advance
    Last edited by Doright; 08-22-2014 at 09:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    8,281

    Default

    OK, you've learned that its impossible to tig aluminum without a hf box, as the weld goes everywhere but where you want it to go. however since HF is rather dangerous, your going to need a remote to turn it off and on. I didn't read most of your post though, kinda long. Maybe make it a little more simple.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Pahrump NV
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    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    OK, you've learned that its impossible to tig aluminum without a hf box, as the weld goes everywhere but where you want it to go. however since HF is rather dangerous, your going to need a remote to turn it off and on. I didn't read most of your post though, kinda long. Maybe make it a little more simple.

    Your comment is about as useful as Tits on a bore hog
    If your not gonna read a persons post but yet offer comment your nothing more than a Punk with a CB radio that cant keep their mouth shut, a post ***** nothing more.

    But I believe I have found my own answers any way with my own research CCC and maybe a lill preheat and better heat sinks thanks for nothing tho.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,640

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    Quote Originally Posted by Doright View Post
    Your comment is about as useful as Tits on a bore hog
    If your not gonna read a persons post but yet offer comment your nothing more than a Punk with a CB radio that cant keep their mouth shut, a post ***** nothing more.

    But I believe I have found my own answers any way with my own research CCC and maybe a lill preheat and better heat sinks thanks for nothing tho.
    Your original post was nonsensical...

    and...

    getting mad at Cruizer for his response was equally silly...

    You need to take a little time to study TIG theory... so you understand the process..

    Here is a good place to start..

    http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdf

    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ur-skills/tig/


    Last edited by H80N; 08-24-2014 at 10:33 AM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
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    Default

    Pretty much what I was saying, is that your post does not make much sense, so all I got was maybe half of it. maybe tell us exactly what you have, material, tungsten, gas, and if your hf is working. Maybe if you have ever welded before.

    Quite confused as to what you are asking.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    900

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    Pretty much what I was saying, is that your post does not make much sense, so all I got was maybe half of it. maybe tell us exactly what you have, material, tungsten, gas, and if your hf is working. Maybe if you have ever welded before.

    Quite confused as to what you are asking.
    My head hurt halfway through the post.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,837

    Default

    We want to help but you threw alot at us at once, Please be a little more direct with your questions so we can help.

    Unfortunately I don't have a shopmaster so I don't know how good they work but would guess it to be a low end tig because its not square wave or inverter technology so that's why Cruizer mentioned about the arc being all over the place.

    I have however ran my HF 251 High Freq box of my Trail blazer and it did work but not as good as the synchrowave that I had at the time and not even close to my Dynasty.

    The shop master will definitely run tig aluminum so when you say you cant add filler metal you either have the machine set up wrong, don't have it in the right mode or you don't know how to weld it.

    You need to be on AC with High Freq continuouse.

    As far as Cruizer goes, Please be a little more respectful, He helps a lot of people here and was trying to help you, You need to be a little more direct with your questions and we will do our best to help you.

    Regards, Portable Welder

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    1,216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doright View Post
    3/16 alum sheet diamond plate and 3/16 filler rod pure tungsten 1/16 rod short #6 cup 15cfh pure Argon, Most all my welds look BLACK and look like some one dug them out of the alum with a Pick and hammer UGLY UGLY UGLY then out of now where I tried again as above and boom laid down 3 nice looking shiny beads but I cant add any rod to it just plops out and dies in blob never pools into a bead.
    Try 1/8" filler max and maybe even 3/32".

    1/16" tungsten is too small for the amperage required to do 3/16" aluminum which is going to be between 180-200A. I would use 1/8" and nothing smaller than 3/32".

    From your description of what your filler rod is doing my guess is your torch angle is too much toward the filler and not toward the base material. This results in overheating the filler causing it to fall off the end instead of melting into the puddle as it should when you attempt to dip. Because it's too big for the task at hand, as soon as it falls off it cools in a blob on the base material.


    Smaller filler, larger tungsten, perhaps more amperage and change your torch angle to almost straight up.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Pahrump NV
    Posts
    9

    Default

    I apologize I was very frustrated and upset at the time, all the money spent on machine and it didn't work, I thought I explained my problem as best I could.
    I would appreciate your guys advise and help if you can forgive me for my short temper, and I apologize too those that I offended and will try to keep my frustrations in check.


    Turned out I had a couple of problems I found:
    1. The Spark gaps in back of Hi freq box were out of book limits I didnt clean them but did re adjust them to book specks.

    2.While I was getting Argon gas though my torch its hose had a major leak in it. I have since fixed it and am now able to lay down some beads on aluminum. They are not peatiest beads but I am just starting out too. YAY!

    New Problems and questions:
    While on AC again just playing with 1/4'' thick piece of extruded angle aluminum just trying to lay beads on it. cleaned with acetone and SS brush.

    I am Burning Pure Tungston into cup 1/16 & 3/16 current set right around 180 less when playing with 1/16 tungston gonna try 2% 3/16 Thoriated today.


    My New question is about the adjustments I can make to the machine
    On the shop master 300 I can play with Current and DIG force.

    IS DIG FORCE AC Balance control on the Shopmaster 300????
    It really messes up beads above 50 and my current is set right around 180 with 3/16 pure tungston. seams to work good. but burning tungston into cup.
    I have been told to keep this adjustment set to Zero while welding steel.
    Turning current down to much from 180 messes up bead. turning down Dig force much messes up bead and turning it up doesn't help much either.

    ON my HF251-1
    I can only play with frequency adjustment from what I read here on web sight, I guess I wanna be around 180? currently using it in-between 50 to 100 playing with it trying to learn exactly how it works and what it does.(Pin pointing arc?) adjustment on machine is 0-100 only, And I'm using it at about 70-80 seams to work best.


    Panel and Remote switches
    All of the machines adjustments have a remote/panel switch as well and switches are all set to remote positions currently. Even after reading Book for machine I am still confused as how Current works with this switch and a remote foot control.
    Its my understanding I can leave knob set to zero and foot control controls current from zero to full 300 amps.(This doesnt work so well for me messes up start and bead) OR set it as I am now to a desired setting, which is what I am doing now Setting it to 180 on panel leaving switch in remote and foot control works from zero to 180 amps? or is it starting at 180 amps?


    Thanks for any and all advise in advance

    Dudley
    Last edited by Doright; 02-18-2015 at 12:50 PM. Reason: added info

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,640

    Default

    Glad you are starting to get a few things sorted.. but you need to read your manuals and the TIG booklet

    http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdf


    IS DIG FORCE AC Balance control on the Shopmaster 300????

    No it has nothing to do with AC Balance in TIG... it is for Stick welding

    It really messes up beads above 50 and my current is set right around 180 with 3/16 pure tungston. seams to work good. but burning tungston into cup.
    I have been told to keep this adjustment set to Zero while welding steel.
    Turning current down to much from 180 messes up bead. turning down Dig force much messes up bead and turning it up doesn't help much either.

    ON my HF251-1
    I can only play with frequency adjustment from what I read here on web sight,


    Sorry .. you cannot adjust the Frequency.. Just the HF intensity

    I guess I wanna be around 180? currently using it in-between 50 to 100 playing with it trying to learn exactly how it works and what it does.(Pin pointing arc?) adjustment on machine is 0-100 only, And I'm using it at about 70-80 seams to work best.
    Last edited by H80N; 02-18-2015 at 09:00 PM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

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