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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    100

    Default Property differances in 6061 and 5052

    Property differances in 6061 and 5052 aluminum sheet ??? My main use is for shop stock but will likely end up being formed with a brake and welded for light duty mounting bracket applications in race cars. Would like to ask about 304 and 321 stainless for same type app.

    Also would like a good site that answers such questions.......

    Doug...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1,343

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Doty View Post
    Also would like a good site that answers such questions.......
    Here’s a really good site that Pete posted for me awhile back.

    http://www.alcotec.com/techpage.htm

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    654

    Default

    If you are going to be doing any bending, use 5052 or 3003. 6061 will crack.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Eugene, Oregon
    Posts
    2,428

    Default

    Joes's right. If you are going to do any forming you need to use 5052.
    Dynasty 350DX
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    08' Trailblazer 302

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Glad I asked, THANKS !!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    London
    Posts
    129

    Default

    hey Doug,

    to add to what the other guys have said,...

    3003 is the most formable of the alloys mentioned. it's used lots for sheet metal interiors, tanks etc. min bend radii of 1t and (in the UK) cheaper than 5052. 5052 has better mechanical properties but is not quite as formable- more suitable for light duty brackets but can be used just as 3003

    normal tempers are 3003-H14 and 5052-H32. if you need to do any complex forming (say, hammerforming compound curves) either can be annealed by coating the area (to be shaped) with soot from an acetylene flame and then heating until the soot burns off. after shaping you'll be back to about half hard (H14) condition.

    FWIW 6061 can be bent successfully provided a suitably large radius is used- aim for 3t.

    321 is the best stainless alloy to use for exhaust headers, it's less prone to cracking at high temperatures than 304. having said that 304 seems to hold up OK in normally aspirated applications. i've heard some comments that 304 is not up the job (and seen/repaired some cracked 304 headers) but personally i think it's down to poor fabrication techniques

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bertram TX
    Posts
    157

    Default Heat treating

    What about heat treating? 6*** and 5*** aluminum? It's not like steel where the strength of the weld is as good as the metal itself. I worry about liability anytime I weld aluminum parts.
    Matt Adams A&P, IA
    Trailblazer 302
    Dialarc HF

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    London
    Posts
    129

    Default

    hey Tex,

    5*** series aluminium doesn't respond to heat treatment. 2***, 6*** and 7*** are the heat treatable alloys. not all 2***/7*** alloys are weldable

    as you say any time aluminium is welded, the HAZ will be left softer and weaker than the rest of the part. heat treatable alloys regain some of their strength over time (natural aging)

    the link posted by Pile Buck contains loads of technical info and also lists the usual uses of specific alloys and their recommended filler alloys

    as for your concerns, if it's a life supporting part steer clear unless there is a proper repair procedure in place. many times Al is used where strength is not the primary concern- i wouldn't go near a cracked headstock on a motorbike but will quite happily weld up a cracked transmission bellhousing for example

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    500

    Default Bending Aluminum

    I work in commerical truck body fab I use a lot of 6061 and (5356 to weld it)
    anyway my supplier asks me if I want the bendable stuff or not and most times I say yes but there has been the odd time that I cant get the benable stuff so what I do is heat the steel to 500 deg using a temple stick quench the steel and bending a sharp 90 is no problem I do this all the time.


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