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  1. #11

    Default

    I didn't feel like grinding the mill scale off all the deck plate so we used the MM 350P in pulse for most of the diamond plating and the 1 X 1 to the main frame. I also cut the corners out of the top deck to allow for water to drain off. The top plate is sunk 1" from the main outside frame. I did this because I wanted an edge on the trailer bed. It gives things (like welders) with wheels something to bump up against.
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Rosetown, SK.
    Posts
    519

    Default

    Thanks for sharing the project Andy. That is a sweet looking trailer. Something about that size on my wish list to if we ever get time for our own projects again. P.S. Very nice welds.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Rosetown, SK.
    Posts
    519

    Default

    Andy ,forgot to ask what diam. wire were you using.Thanks in advance.

  4. #14

    Default

    All the welds were with .035 National Standard wire.

    I lost a ton of the other pics so these next ones are some that I just took of it completed.

    I mounted the spare tire and hub assembly at the front of the trailer....don't ask why, I just thought it was a good out of the way place.
    The trailer is equipped with the break a way emergency break system as required by law here in North Carolina.

    On the top rail I ran diagonal supports from the top rail to main frame at each corner to add to the stiffness of the trailer.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #15

    Default

    Also on the tongue, we welded 2 x 2 x 1/4" angle iron to the main tongue rails all the way under to the underside of the trailer bed frame for added tongue support as I will be loading this thing to the MAX

    At the back, I mounted the light assemblies close to the fenders. I've had other trailers where the lights were at the very back and they were constantly getting tore off, especially when it was loaned out!
    In order to make the trailer more versatile for loading multiple wheel widths, I welded a channel on the back so the ramps could slide to any position or width. Also made a good place to drill 2 holes for the license plate.

    Andy
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  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    now in Orlando!!!!
    Posts
    559

    Default

    Andy, I love that measuring stick in pic 006, thanks for a great build. Paul

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    now in Orlando!!!!
    Posts
    559

    Default

    Andy, interesting capping off of 1 inch in pic 5677. I agree with mounting the lights near the fenders, I worked at a Trailer MFG in Greensboro for 5 years and we did tons of repair, on just that Item. Also being able to replace the fenders is a big plus, and the channel for variable ramp placement. Again, thanks, Paul

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Central illinois
    Posts
    98

    Default A Job Well Done

    you done a heck of a job on your trailer you should be able to haul
    a dozer if you want
    i realy like working with square tubing
    it looks realy nice when done
    miller bobcat 250
    wc 115a
    spoolmatic 30a
    centery 250 mic
    2 lincoln 225 stick
    a 1954 hobart portable welder w/ willies jeep engine

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,311

    Default

    Very nice job Andy.
    Out of position pulse (like upside down) works really well!)
    I wonder if you used your spot timer on the trailer fenders?
    I never was a big fan of those features, until you have a
    machine that has them. I love your table jig setup too.
    Very nice stuff.

    Scott

  10. #20

    Default axle mounting

    Andy, Are the axles welded to the main frame rails? In the photos it looks like they are? I have a triple axle race car trailer with torsion flex axles also. We broke a spindle, losing the tire, wheel and hub. Fortunately it bounced twice and went over the side of a bridge into the water instead of hitting somebody. I decided to replace all three axles after talking to Dexter, the manufacturer of the axles. My axles were also welded to the frame. I found out the recommendation was to weld a bracket to the frame and bolt the axle bracket to it. That would make replacing an axle easier. As it was with the axle bracket welded directly to the frame it was a MAJOR pain to whittle them off the frame. You bolted your fenders on but it looks like the axles are welded. If you damage a spindle it will be a lot tougher to replace it. Dave Germain

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