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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,697

    Default Removing a pin on front loader

    I got called out to a job to weld a clevis back onto the chrome shaft of a hydraulic cylinder, the reason it broke is because the 3" pin frooze into the arm of the loader, I welded a ring on the one end of the pin and attatched a ratchet binder to pull on the pin, on the opposite side I welded a pin, I then took my big rose bud torch and set my propane pressure at 50 lbs and my oxegen at about 60-70 psi.
    It did a great job at heating and then 3 guys took turns on swinging the sledge and to no avail it would not move, so I then got a torch and did the quench method to help break up the rust and it still would not come out.
    I then had to air arc, then chip, then air arc and chip so on and so on untill I dug in 2-1/2" on each side and then the hydraulic clinder came down and now I had a 3" dia pin left in the arm of the loader that was still about 4-1/2 long.
    I then went back to trying to pull this pin out with the ratchet binder on one side, a drive pin welded to the other side for a sledge hammer and a big rose bud torch.
    Any way I am curiouse how long this job should take because it took me alot longer than I expected it to.
    I used about 40 1/4" carbon rods to arc all this out. using my 300 amp trail blazer.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Brookfield,MA
    Posts
    103

    Default

    I had to remove a bucket froma 966D once and both pins we frozen on the pivots. With a CAT oxygen lance, gouging, a 10lb sledge it took me about 9 hours to get them both out. I've seen pins on horizontal bailers at work fight with man and machine for 2 days till they finally won
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Rosetown, SK.
    Posts
    519

    Default

    We have had success with these stubborn ones by taking a zip cut disc & opening one side then heating if necessary & removing it. V out to the bottom & reweld.Might need a die grinder to trim inside where weld penetrates to allow pin movement & if possible install grease zerk if you can find people who know what they are their for.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    N.E. SD
    Posts
    1,377

    Default

    There are several ways to get a pin out..
    1-Weld a frame to the arm and push it with a porta power
    2- cut a hole in it to relieve the stress and then push it out.
    3- heat the pin boss and then freeze the pin.

    If you had a big torch and you could cut into each end and then when it cooled you could get it out.

    If you had a Exo torch you could blow through it and then get it out.
    Air arcs aren't the greatest for blowing blind holes, Oxy acet will actually do more, especially compared to 1/4" carbons.

    What loader were you working on?
    Jeff

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Tulsa
    Posts
    117

    Default

    When I worked on cranes, we used a Oxygen lance to get the stubborn pens out.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Rainier, OR
    Posts
    495

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Portable Welder View Post
    I got called out to a job to weld a clevis back onto the chrome shaft of a hydraulic cylinder, the reason it broke is because the 3" pin frooze into the arm of the loader, I welded a ring on the one end of the pin and attatched a ratchet binder to pull on the pin, on the opposite side I welded a pin, I then took my big rose bud torch and set my propane pressure at 50 lbs and my oxegen at about 60-70 psi.
    It did a great job at heating and then 3 guys took turns on swinging the sledge and to no avail it would not move, so I then got a torch and did the quench method to help break up the rust and it still would not come out.
    I then had to air arc, then chip, then air arc and chip so on and so on untill I dug in 2-1/2" on each side and then the hydraulic clinder came down and now I had a 3" dia pin left in the arm of the loader that was still about 4-1/2 long.
    I then went back to trying to pull this pin out with the ratchet binder on one side, a drive pin welded to the other side for a sledge hammer and a big rose bud torch.
    Any way I am curiouse how long this job should take because it took me alot longer than I expected it to.
    I used about 40 1/4" carbon rods to arc all this out. using my 300 amp trail blazer.
    You have sort of described the reason we bought a LARGe plasma cutter.

    The other treatment for those stuck pins is one heck of a big porta-power.

    We have both a 60 ton one that is hollow and a 100 ton model.
    I've used both. but the hollow one is kind of neat because you can put a driving rod right though the middle of it. --- thus you can pump up pressure to 60 tons, and then help it with a driving rod and a sledge hammer.

    to be sure our 100 ton portapower has a driving plate on the back of it, but the hammer force goes through the jack which perhaps isn't as good.

    Another possibility depending on how hard the pin is to relieve it by
    drilling it. If the pin can be drilled all the way through, then the fire
    axe works a lot better and you can cut some reliefes.

    but dont feel badly about working on it for days.----- And of course part of the problem is that the sledge hammer swells them up and makes the job even tougher.
    rvannatta
    www.vannattabros.com
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,697

    Default

    well by the time I welded the clevis on protected the chrome cylinder and ground the bore smooth to accept the new pin I had approx. 12 hrs.
    A friend of mine who is a portable welder like me said he could have done this job in about 3 hrs using his air arc but I cant see how.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,495

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Portable Welder View Post
    A friend of mine who is a portable welder like me said he could have done this job in about 3 hrs using his air arc but I cant see how.
    Well, next time sub it out to him, flat rate, based on three hours. You charge the customer the twelve hours it actually takes, make out like a bandit on jobs like that.

    Almost every one of these jobs is different, you really can't predict the time. The big variable is how much time you waste trying to get it out in one piece, I find the older I get the less time I spend on these, I generally take a couple swings with the hammer then it's cutting torch and/or air-arc. I find if it's that hard getting the pin out it's usually not salvageable anyway, plus all the heat on the structure and sleeve can't be good for the machine.

    On something like this, if there's enough clearance, I usually try to cut the pin with a torch between the clevis and the frame, both sides if possible, drop the clevis out of the way, then pierce the pin left in the frame all the way through with a large (#6) cutting tip. Once it's pierced, you can sometimes drive it right out, other times you have to cut the hole out more.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Rainier, OR
    Posts
    495

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Portable Welder View Post
    well by the time I welded the clevis on protected the chrome cylinder and ground the bore smooth to accept the new pin I had approx. 12 hrs.
    A friend of mine who is a portable welder like me said he could have done this job in about 3 hrs using his air arc but I cant see how.
    I'm still hauling tools to the job site at the 3 hour mark.
    rvannatta
    www.vannattabros.com
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,697

    Default

    Well I dont feel so bad after talking to you guys.
    I have to agree that maybe the air arc wasnt the best tool for the job but I dont own a lance, I used one about 16 years ago it was called a arc air and I used it to cut through the side of the press but untill the other day I havent had a use for a lance.
    The air arc works great for peeling welds when I vee groove thick weldment but I cant say the same about blind holes.

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