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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,495

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    Still on the passenger side . . .
    The first pic is where I keep my hoods, a Jackson Nexgen and a backup Huntsman. White boxes hold cover lens and soapstone, tray they sit on also contains all my layout equipment, squares, center heads, torpedo levels, protractor, curv-o-mark, compass, tape measures, etc. Underneath I keep various spray-cans and containers -- a couple paint/primer, anti-spatter, solvent sprays, PB Blaster, light hydraulic oil for jacks and porta-powers, water soluble oil in a spray bottle for drilling holes, dark threading oil.

    Second pic is my oxy/acetelyne bottles -- everything is there. Wrenches and strikers hanging on the back wall, face shield, tips, torch. I use a #5 bottle, don't need to replace so often, there's also a #4 flattop secured in the bed if needed as a spare, just run the hose out the door and over the top of the box to it. Two large oxygen bottles in the box. Since I'm doing a lot of stainless right now, I'm carrying a plasma cutter with me, the torch is hanging on the acetelyne bottle. Orange flags are handy for taping or bungie cording to long steel hanging out the back, also sometimes for traffic control if necessary when working on the side of the road (a 12 gauge would be better, I think).

    Pic three is a closeup of my tip storage . . . a 3" aluminum angle with a double row of holes to hold tips -- seats don't bang on anything, they stay good.

    Jumping over to the driver's side for a bit, this box holds my clamps, small hammers, couple needle guns, bearing pullers, etc. I like to keep about 10-15 visegrips, couple large bessey clamps, several small ones, couple large C-clamps. The top tray in this box holds standard and metric tap and die sets, drill bits, reamers, leather punches (for punching holes in rubber), calipers, hole saw set, flaring tool set.

    One valuable tool in here (not shown) is a solvent gun. Normally it is used to blow a pressurized stream of solvent to clean things, it is also very handy to suck hydraulic oil out of cracked cylinders so they can be welded in place (without having to remove it).

    Coal: you are welcome to incorporate or improve on any ideas presented here, that's the purpose of this thread. I'm looking for a couple ideas myself, it will become apparent shortly some changes I need to make.
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  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,697

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    Well, I'm getting beat up here pretty bad, in fact my friend who said he would take the pictures still has not come to the shop but has been on this site giving race car advise and reading about my truck not being posted and all the ribbing I receive. So all I can do is offer pictures.
    Aero Weld is the only one here that can verify that a rig does indeed exist, and no my truck is not all that nice it is just very functional. In Fact its getting rusty in its old age.
    In fact I should just wait and post the new one that I will build which will be in 2010 or so ( By that time I should actually own a digital camera and my kids will be old enouph to teach me how to use it)
    I have pretty much everything most every one else has, The welder, crane, compressor, the only thing I have that many service trucks dont have is a full rack to haul beams & tubing all the way up to 30' long.
    I also have a color fax that I can fax pictures.
    My overhead bridge cranes are also finished and all powered up so if my friend ever comes out I will get some pics of those also.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    732

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    Quote Originally Posted by Coalsmoke

    Bretsk, sorry to here of your grinder troubles.
    *snip*
    What donít you like about the Rockwell? I have a 40 year old Rockwell saw, the thing is bulletproof.
    I don't like it because it's rather loud and wants to jump out of my hands from it's torque. that and it weighs about 25 lbs. I'm sure it was great tool in it's day. I may give hitachi a shot on the 7", as they're always a good $30-$40 cheaper than red, blue or yellow. only time will tell I guess.
    Bobcat 225NT
    Cutmaster 52
    Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 buzz box
    Caterpillar TH63
    '07 Kawasaki ZZR600

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    TAXACHUSSETTS
    Posts
    1,481

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    Quote Originally Posted by admweld
    I hate too do this but i call bull sh$% on portables rig there is no rig thats why there is no photos
    Portable, I was just poking at you for some fun .I just enjoy seeing all the guys setups and you did tell us we could see yours.New or old, function is of importants, and then dependabilty to get you to the job.
    BB402D
    TB300D
    DIMENSION652
    MM250X
    MAXSTAR140
    S-32 FEEDER W/1260 IRONMATE FC/GUN
    HT/PWR-MAX1250 PLASMA

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    732

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Coalsmoke
    25lbs would tire the arm muscles pretty quick. My 7" Hitachi is the same as the 9"/ just a 7" disc gaurd on it. The tool-less gaurd is a nice feature. 7" grinder

    This is about the same as what I have, just that this has the "new" styled body, the guts are the same. The AC/DC switch is a nice feature to have if you are ever running off of a DC only welder. Around here they cost quite a bit more than the dewalts and a little more than the makitas. I've seen a few dewalts die (each time it seemed to be something to do with the gear train in the hub of the grinder. We opened one up and it had plastic pieces in it, maybe Dewalt has two lines, a "pro" and then the real McCoy?), and two makitas in 5 years, both burnt up inside, but they are a good work-horse tool IMO. I think the Hitachi has an advantage in the power output of the tool, and I suspect a greater overall longevity, but, I'll have to wait to really know for sure with this grinder.
    my grinder(s) are the G12SR2. I kept the one that burnt up on me for parts, so if the new one had a problem out of warranty I could just fix it myself. as far as pricing, it could be a US/Canada thing, or my LWS is just trying to move the Hitachi's. I do need a second (or third) grinder though.. my $15 chinese 4" backup just isn't cutting it, (though it does work well with just a stringer wire wheel on it.)
    Bobcat 225NT
    Cutmaster 52
    Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 buzz box
    Caterpillar TH63
    '07 Kawasaki ZZR600

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,697

    Default

    As far as grinders go I have tried several of them.
    I wegh performance, longjevity, and cost and for me the cheap black& Deckers ( The orange ones ) for $ 39.00 are unbeatable, I buy 2-1/2 B & D for the price of a so called quality one and it seems like they only last another 25% longer.
    I carry 4 of them on my truck at a time one as a grinder, another with a polishing pad, a nother with a 6" cut off wheel and the last one has a wire wheel.
    Since my cut off wheel has no guard on it I always wear a long sleeve shirt, safety glasses plus a face shield and gloves.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,697

    Default

    We all have button sleeves so it tracking up our arm due to loose sleeves isnt the problem, its the shattering fibre disk that we guard against.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,495

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    Since I never know what I'll be running into, I normally keep three inert gas cylinders on the truck. There is a 50# CO2, a 125 argon for aluminum wire, and a 125 helium tri-mix for stainless wire. The CO2 is used for anything I want to purge, also as a shielding gas for dualshield. Right now, I'm doing so much stainless with the LN-25 the small trimix is off the truck, instead I'm carrying a 250 bottle in back, just chain it to the headboard when I need it.

    I keep chain come-a-longs and small prybars with the inert gas. Notice hanging on the shelves in the 2nd box back -- a little 500# capacity chain come-a-long, this is very handy for tight places and light pulling/squaring, from Northern Tools.

    Top three shelves are coffee cans and boxes full of bolts, nuts, and washers -- everything from 1/4" on up to 1". All grade 5 or better, any grade 2's I just throw out, I don't want them on the truck. Each can has only one size in it, but it is a mixture of nuts, washers, locks, and several lengths of that particular bolt size. This way I can just dump it out on the back of the truck, pick out what I need, and put everything else back. I use a lot of bolts, we constantly replenish this supply.
    Lower shelf is my 3/4" socket set. Bottom of box is a bunch of grinding wheels, worn down big wheels that need to go on the little grinder.

    The spoolgun is very versatile -- stainless, aluminum, and even mild steel mig when needed for light stuff. There's a bracket that holds it on the wall, and the cords and hoses loop on afterwards. You can also see my finned CO2 flowmeter, and several inert gas hoses, there's also one that couples direct to the valve of the CO2 cylinder for purging. I keep a crescent wrench, wire cutters, SS wirebrushes, small aluminum and SS wire rolls here also, don't have to go looking for them.

    The lower box here is kind of a mish-mash -- a gallon of water-soluble oil for drilling (need lots of holes for all those bolts ), couple welding blankets, large crescent wrenches (up to 2 1/4"), Rigid pipe threaders (from 1/2" up to 2"), a couple rolls of hardfacing wire that wouldn't fit anywhere else, a few bigger bolts (1 1/8, 1 1/4), some weld on hinges, just a bunch of miscellaneous stuff I didn't know where else to put.
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  9. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    N.E. SD
    Posts
    1,377

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    Since every day is a new day with a new problem it is hard to keep enough stuff on hand but I do try.
    Pic 1 top drawer Tweco connectors, small parts, tire chucks and gages for small and large stems and blow guns
    2nd drawer Taps, easyouts, drill bits, files hacksaw wire brushes, battery tools
    3rd drawer Air tools- 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 air impacts, two die grinders, one 90deg die grinder, air ratchet, swivelhead air cutoff tool, 90deg air drill, air hammer, carbide burrs, flap wheels, grinding points, roloc disks, cutoff wheels, and spare air couplers
    4th drawer roll pins, cotter pins,grease fittings, battery terminals, cable lugs,spare portapower couplers,gasket punches, several flavors of loctite, JIC plugs and caps, Gasket cement and sealers, and wire
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    N.E. SD
    Posts
    1,377

    Default

    Picture 2 is my main toolbox with a full set of hand tools including duplicate sets of combination wrenches to 1 5/8"
    Pic 3 top door is weding leads, hood, torch, strikers, tips, gloves, chipping hammer, extension cord.
    Lower front door is aerosol cans- brake cleaner, pen oil, air tool oil, Yellow red and black paint, and brake fluid.
    Lower mid door is nuts and bolts from 1/4' to1", pipe fittings, brass and compression fittings, electrical connectors and cord ends, key stock, tagline, lifting eyes from 5/16 to 5/8"
    Attached Images Attached Images

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