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  1. #11

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    I took a couple peeks at the amps display today while I was actually welding, it appears that I'm running at 35-40 amps on 18ga the majority of the time. Obviously a bit more or less depending on the situation.

    When starting the bead don't go directly to WFO on the pedal, ease into it and watch the puddle form. Try dabbing the wire in and see what it does. At first the heat of the arc will cause a ball to drop off the wire, increase the amps to the point where you start to see a puddle then just a bit more. If the ball that dropped is close enough it will suddenly jump into the puddle and you're on your way. As I said above, if you've got a tight seam you may not need any more filler, the heat will draw the 2 sides of the puddle together till they fuse. Just keep moving the arc slowly along the seam.

    Also, when welding patch panels where you're welding old steel to new steel, make every effort to get the back side of the seam clean, anything that's on the backside will draw towards the heat and contaminate your weld. If you're seeing any "sparklers" popping up in your puddle you've got contamination from somewhere, in many cases it will blow holes in your weld.

    TIG is all about controlling the heat and using it to control the puddle, learn to control the puddle and you'll have it.

    Tom
    Last edited by tdkkart; 01-17-2007 at 12:19 PM. Reason: fumble fingers

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Morris, Il
    Posts
    7

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    Thanks for the advice. TDKKART, that project trike is sick cool! I own 7 bikes right now, 5 dirt and two street, but the project I am working on right now is a 74 Challenger. So far I have replaced just about every weldable panel for sale by the a/m and fabricated a lot that were not available. I will attempt to post photos of this vehicle later. I have been using the mig the last few days due to not knowing what to do with this tig. I am off to the welding store right now to go buy some .30 wire. Thanks again.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    2

    Default

    If you're burning through the base metal before the filler melts, use a smaller filler. For 22ga steel, I use .035 or .040 ER70S-2, or -6 if I cannot get the -2. I also keep on hand mig wire in the composition I need in .035, and cut off a piece, straighten it a bit, and clean it well. It will melt at the amperage you need to use for the 22ga; I too have a 200, and set it at 50 amps. I use most of the pedal for tacks, and then about half to three quarters pedal travel once I am going. If you're using pulse, just find a pps that gives you a bead appearance you are happy with and stick with it.

    It might take a bit of practice to get used to handling the smaller wire, but it's worth the effort. I also use gas lenses exclusively these days. The cost is low, and the gas savings are tremendous. I can easily run as low as 4 or 5cfh on carbon and stainless, and for titanium I use a Monster Lens with a bit more flow. I highly recommend investing in some. Since switching to gas lenses, I've cut my gas usage and cost by more than half.

    Hope it helps. I really love my 200. Yup, someday a Dynasty will be in the shop, and the 200 will pay for it (and will stay).

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    6

    Post 200 sychrowave

    I tig weld all day for a living for the past 14 years. I can tell you that stay the polarity your on . And try using a smaller filler wire such as .035 wire insted of 1/16th. But since your doing gage material your amps should be around 30 to 40 if you have a foot control leave were you have it. But I have purchased the same welder for at home it's great.

    Check out the pulse feature on the maching it is used for sheet metal welding . What does this do? This will take your amps and give a hi and low heat on and off in seconds were you can adjust the seconds for your discretion. See Manual on setting the pulse. That should really help alot for sheet metal work. Because its not a constant heat all the time.

    Your sheilding gas should be around 25-30 you can also preset the postflow on your machine to shield after you stop welding. See manual on how to set post and preflow settings.

    Tungsten your using I would keep on using it. And never dip it in the puddle always keep it clean, makes for a cleaner weld and better arc performance. Always sharpen it like a sphere.

    Hope this helps you and good luck!!!

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