When you are talking about cored wire, I assume you are referring to self shielded or "Innershield" wire because your 210 won't have near enough output to run dual shield effectively. My advise would be to stay inside and use solid wire whenever possible around the farm. When you have to be outside, here are some things to consider: research what type of cored wire you are using carefully and taylor it to your needs; many of your more common innershield wires are NOT designed for multi-pass applications and result in a brittle weld if used for such. I would reserve the cored wire for lighter work unless you make sure to get the right stuff. Also, a little more skill is needed with cored wire when welding out of position. MOST (not all) cored wires need to be run uphill to produce a good quality weld. My personal opinion is that a good engine driven stick welder is more versatile for farm use unless you have a nice shop to work in.
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Thread: solid wire or flux core
12-31-2005, 11:19 AM #11Junior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2005
12-31-2005, 04:48 PM #12
Normally i use 100% .030 solid in my shop. Today i was welding outside on my neighbors truck, flux core would have been nice...Bob
Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
01-26-2006, 08:51 PM #13
I've got a friend that keeps flux on one of his welders just for outside work..i guess if you can afford it that would be the way to go.
FarrisGone But Never Forgotten!
01-26-2006, 11:51 PM #14Senior Member
Originally Posted by fyoung
- Join Date
- Sep 2002
- Clark County, NV
01-27-2006, 09:51 AM #15
That's rightOriginally Posted by MAC702
FarrisGone But Never Forgotten!
10-07-2006, 10:46 PM #16
to buy or not to buy
i'm that little voice in your head Matic 251 or you'll be sorrrrrry
Flux core I think there is only 2 types *Fabco Hobart XL-71 .045
ESAB 7100 ultra dual sheild .045
Solid wire pretty much any .045 or.035 will do
10-08-2006, 12:29 AM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Plainview, TX
I recently ran out of 75AR/25CO2 and wire at the same time in my dads MM200. We were running a 220 CF bottle with a 33# spool of Esab Dual Shield 7011 Ultra in 0.035. The Esab wire welded great but had to up the gas flow to about 25 CFH to help cut down splatter. When we went for gas, we swapped out to a 120 CF bottle for a little easier handling and ordered a 25# roll of Lincoln Outersheild 71M. I just used it, the Outershield 71M, for the first time the other day; I had been using some regular Hobart Wire till we got the flux core in. The Lincoln wire runs great in the machine and has almost not splatter at all, except when striking the arc. Gas is running at 20 CFH and this stuff just sizzles while it welds. Great out of position welding, puddles great, penitrates good. This stuff was $105 for the spool from Airgas. The Esab 7100 was priced at $225 from the same place. The guy at Airgas told my dad a lot of welding shops in Lubbock were using the Lincoln wire because it welded good and was cheaper and easier to get than the Esab. Esab just settled a labor strike and prices shot way up and supplies were hard to get while the strike was on.
About welding in windy conditions. Use stick if you are outside, unless you have a way to put up a truely reliable wind break. It is possible for you to blow the gas away from your mig when welding by simply breathing to hard under the hood. Any breaze at all can blow the shield gas away. If it is windy out side, especially with a SE, Southerly, or SW wind around my area, I have to shut the shop door down to block the wind. I don't shut it all the way, but enough to block the wind to not interfere while welding. Running stick out side on a windy day, 35MPH+, can mess you up as well.
About voltage. 110/115/120 is how voltage is commonly referred to. Depending on the time of day and the load usage at your place, the voltage in your wall plug can be anywhere from 110 to 120V. My wall sockets generally show around 118 to 120V. But around 5:00pm, when people in the neighborhood start coming home and switching things on in the house, I have seen it drop to 110 to 113 until the line surge levels out and things settle down around 115 to 117. When the demand drops, the voltage goes back to 118 to 120. 220/230/240 V is just the combining of the two 110/115/120 V Single Phase legs to get the higher voltage. People tend to call 110/220V, 115/230V, and 120/240V by what is the most common reading in their area.
The most common 3 Phase in my area is 4-Wire 230V 3 Phase and 480V 3-Wire (Delta) and 4-Wire (Grounded Delta) 3 Phase. The 4-Wire 230V 3 Phase generally has two low legs, 110 to 120V per leg, and is capable of providing 115V and 230V 1 Phase from those to legs, back to ground and/or neutral, if available. The high leg is generally 208V. But when you check from either of the low legs to the high leg, you get 220V to 240V, thus 230V 3 Phase. The 480V 3 Phase tends to check out around 487V to 497V in my area, with no load. Start the pump and check the voltage under load, viola, 480V. Don't have many Wye connections around these parts, not on the farms anyway. I have seen allot of the 277/480V 3 phase in industrial setting, in town, not out in the country, not around here anyway.
Franklin Electric Submersible Motors show a NAMEPLATE VOLTAGE on all of their products. Single Phase Motors tend to be listed as 110 or 220V. Three Phase motors are listed 220 and 460V. The key to them, when the motor is running under a load, is the voltage within 10% of name plate value. My example of the 480V 3 phase checking 497V with no load and checking 480V under a load is within the 10% of name plate. If the NO LOAD was checking 500V or higher, the motor running under a load would be well over 480; have seen a motor running 498V load and 516V no load. That is time to call the power company and have the lineman adjust the buck/boost transformer a bit.
I hope that this dialouge was informative and educational for all.'77 Miller Bluestar 2E on current service truck
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10-08-2006, 02:45 PM #18