Just would like to get input on weather to us solid wire or flux core. Which is cheaper or better to use? Does the flux core have problems like stick after sitting around for a whileand gets damp? I'm looking at buying a miller 210 for the farm. What are the quality differences between the miller, hobart and lincoln? I want to do it right the first time instead of purchasing and then regret it latter. I like this message board for ideas and the projects.![]()
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Thread: solid wire or flux core
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11-27-2005, 12:32 PM #1
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solid wire or flux core
Last edited by sparkey; 11-27-2005 at 12:44 PM.
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11-27-2005, 01:33 PM #2
I have the MM185 which is the model the 210 was built from. I love it. Had it 6 years. I have the spoolgun which i just used about 10 minutes ago to reach up into a truck bed, with .030 solid steel wire. I use .030 solid wire and 75/25 but i am inside and don't want to mess with the flux core. Being on the farm and outside you may want a spool of flux core to use on windy days. I have a large assortment of wires to use for different jobs what ever comes in. I don't know about the comparison between a Lincoln because i bought the right one the first time.
. You can't go wrong with a MM210...Bob
Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
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11-28-2005, 05:52 PM #3
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yeah i used to have a home depot lincoln and never had problems with flux-core and i also welded in very windy days. if you weld outside i would'nt go with gas because the wind may blow the gas away.
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11-28-2005, 09:16 PM #4
Would it be bad to weld with solid wire outside if the wind isn't too bad or is that a no-no all around?
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11-29-2005, 01:31 PM #5
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With no wind, sure solid is okay outside, you may have to flow some more gas though. Flux core tends to burn hotter so it tends to warp lighter sheet metal. It's just the thing for welding heavier guage stuff and cold rolled, in my case up to 3/16 (Cricket XL!, ohhh, if only Santa would bring me a DVI!). Don't let the solid wire get damp though. It'll rust and cause nothing but grief, it took me some time and a few spoiled rolls to figure this out...duhhhh. Just take the roll out and keep it wrapped up in the dry when not in use. The flux core doesn't seem to mind the damp though.
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11-30-2005, 06:23 PM #6
What about penetration? Would your average stick welder penetrate farther than say a DVI on flux core? (Waiting for my DVI too getting one this summer
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12-17-2005, 03:36 PM #7
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I've welded outdoors with solid wire and gas, but it's a pain. We have a lot of days with no wind here, but it's amazing how often some little tiny gust will blow your gas away just enough to throw some porosity into your weld. I keep flux-cored wire in my two field feeders, and solid wire in the shop feeder.
Overall, solid wire and gas is cheaper and much faster in terms of clean-up, but requires significantly cleaner metal for good results.
So they both definitely have a place in my arsenal.
I saw your other thread which mentions no longer needing the DVI, so we'll leave that alone. You will never regret having 240V available in a shop. I hope you ran it big enough for future upgrades. Did you put in a full subpanel while you were at it?
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12-20-2005, 09:16 PM #8
Yep, I actually still have 110 with all my outlets and just put a new box in with new 220 outlets. Speaking of which I here all different types of voltage numbers 220, 230 and 240 which really is it?
When in doubt Weld It
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12-21-2005, 10:36 AM #9
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All the service I see in this part of the country or on gensets I've seen/used is 240V. (And the common wall outlet is 120V.)
If a device is listed for 220, 230, 240, or 250, it will work just fine, though, in all cases of which I am aware. Usually, your receptacles and cord caps will say 250V, to show that they are designed for AT LEAST that amount of voltage.
I think 220V is a left-over from when it WAS the voltage. Maybe one of the old guys on the East Coast knows more about that, though.
Now, 208V and 277V are another story. Those are typically legs of 3-phase systems and you will need to make sure those are properly matched because they are too far away from 240V to be used by most equipment marked 220 - 240 Volts.
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12-30-2005, 08:44 PM #10
Alright thanks, that clears thing up quite a bit. My relatives are were trying to tel me it was 220. And now i can prove them wrong.
Thanks again,
KlugWhen in doubt Weld It


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