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Thread: plasma cutter

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    1,343

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    I have a Hypertherm 1250, I run it on a cnc shape cutter. The shape cutterís software tracks the amount of plunges, and inches cut. I can cut at least 250-feet, with over 200 plunges before seeing any change in the quality of cut.
    I learned the hard way; you need dry air, and a good filter, if cutting very much.

    Here are some pictures of the air dryer I made, an engineer friend ran the numbers for me, said this system will work here in the North West, but on our hottest of days I should drop a block of ice in the water cooler. This system will not work in the hotter climates.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #12
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    Sep 2006
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    Difference in temperature. You can see how just tap water really cools the air.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Tennessee
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    Doesn't condensate water build up in the bottom of your intercooler coil. I didn't see a drain?

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Shattuck OK
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    47

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    Quote Originally Posted by tsalagi View Post
    of all of the plasma cutters i've used, i liked thermal dynamics and esab. i woln't get one with an internal compressor. they seem to have more problems after alot of use. kind of like the compressor ain't big enough or tough enough or something. persnally i like a victor torch. call me old fashoned.
    I agree, I use my victors more than i do the plasma, but the rest of the guys in the shop complain because all we have is the 375. I rarely use the plasma unless im cutting really thin plate

    Bryce
    BB Farm Supply

  5. #15
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    Sep 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by aintlifegrate View Post
    Doesn't condensate water build up in the bottom of your intercooler coil. I didn't see a drain?
    Yes, it sure does ! At the bottom of the copper coils I have a ďTĒ with a street L, and a hydraulic bulkhead fitting with a valve on the end. When Iím done with the compressor I drain everything, the valves on the after cooler, motor guard system, and holding tank. Then I open the valve to the copper coils. When I start the compressor the valve on the coils is the last one to be shut, this allows all the condensation to be blown out of the bottom of the coils!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    southern Oregon
    Posts
    19

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    Pile, have you used your air for sandblasting?

    I have a 4 cylinder gas engine rotary air comp that I use for sandblasting. After I have used it for a period of time moisture gets into the sand and starts plugging up the tube.
    Don't ask me to do a dam thing, I'm retired
    Miller Syncrowave 250
    Linclon Idealarc sp 200
    Thermodyne Econo-pak50
    Victor O/A tourch.

  7. #17
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    Sep 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie C View Post
    Pile, have you used your air for sandblasting?
    Hi Charlie, no I have not! Sorry.
    My compressor is only 5-hp, 175-psi, 80-gallon tank. Not what I would consider an acceptable compressor for sand blasting. What little sand blasting Iíve ever done was with a 185 cfm diesel driven compressor.
    With you being in Southern Oregon this system may not work for you. Harbor Freights sells a refrigerated air dryer for $299.00 but limited to 140-psi. I think any factory built air dryer that would work on your compressor is going to cost much more . If you decide to built something on this line, might consider placing the copper tubes in one of those small apartment size refrigerators, the ones that are about 3-feet tall. That thought crossed my mind, but gambled on this cheaper version!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
    Posts
    304

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    Pile,

    Something I've done in the past to complement your dryer is to do a two stage regulator system. Since you have a 175 PSI system to begin with, you can put in the primary regulator just before your aftercooler and the secondary regulator after it. This will give you the same effect as an orifice in a refrigeration system. The first stage decompression will cool the air and help force some more moisture out. As long as you are only needing 120-130 PSI, you have some room to step down the pressure. Obviously, it won't be much change, but it might help out just enough on the warmer days. Gotta love Oklahoma....100+F / 80+% humidity SSS
    Last edited by SkidSteerSteve; 12-09-2006 at 07:37 AM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Dallas, TX area
    Posts
    267

    Default Nice cooler:

    Quote Originally Posted by SkidSteerSteve View Post
    you can put in the primary regulator just before your aftercooler and the secondary regulator after it. This will give you the same effect as an orifice in a refrigeration system.
    I like Steve's delta-P idea for forcing the latent change in the coil. I like a delta-V approach, too. Full pressure/flow into the coil then from the coil to a tank where the velocity drop would give better separation. Tank is a bit of a misnomer as it could be just a larger tube. That looked like 5/8" or maybe 3/4" copper in the aftercooler. If you exited the coil into a tank made of, say 3" copper only about as tall as the coil, the resulting velocity change would have the same effect as putting ice in the water for any given temperature/humidity of inlet air without a loss of pressure. Plus the delta-V separation would occur in the cooler and not be passed on to the main tank. Clear as mud?
    Triggerman

    Ammonia refrigeration tech
    Trailblazer 302 (yes, it's new)
    Millermatic 180 w/Autoset
    CST-250
    HF-15 High frequency
    XR15 w/Push-Pull Gun
    Victor O/A, DeWalt, North mask


    "A professional knows what to do. A craftsman knows why."

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,495

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    I finally bit the bullet last year and purchased a Thermal Dynamics 51. I have no idea how this compares in cut quality etc. with other brands, I decided on this particular make because I am portable, the gun detaches from the case with a twist-lock mechanism and can be stored separate on the truck, also I occasionally find myself far from my LWS, anywhere between Oregon, N. California, and Nevada, I wanted the brand with the best likelihood of finding parts wherever I am. I picked the 51 because it was the best tradeoff of capacity vs. weight.

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