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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    19

    Default SMAW big rod uphill problem

    I'm working on a project at work where I'm welding a 3/4" plate to a piece of rec tubing that is 3/16" wall. I have to build the weld quite a ways out, and have been using a 3/16" rod on the flat stuff with pretty good results. I've tried 3/16" 7018 on the vertical and overhead stuff, but the puddle keeps blowing out. I've tried all kinds of head settings with the same results. Both pieces are preheated before I weld. I can get beautiful welds with the 1/8" rod in any position, but the bigger rod is acting like a beast. Any suggestions? Is the larger rod just for really, really thick metal? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Greeneville TN,
    Posts
    91

    Default

    Are you using ac or dc?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    19

    Default

    DCEN. I've tried to run beads on some heavy scrap with the triangle pattern uphill, but I keep cratering after a couple rounds. It's also near impossible to me to keep the arc length short enough with the larger rods which makes it spit and sputter worse.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1,343

    Default All in the joint!

    Hi crzdriver, I can only think of one time I ever ran 3/16 7018 vertically. Ran it overhead a lot on one project where it was required, ever tho we had wire feeders.
    The one time I ran it vertically was on some sheet pile, only because thatís all we had at the time. When welding interlocks on sheet pile itís almost the perfect joint! Itís almost like welding two pieces of 1 1/2 -inch round stock together. I remember being shocked at how easy it was, also remember having to really increase the angle, like maybe twice the angle, have to really force the metal up hill! But to just make a pass vertically on a flat plate with 3/16 7018 Iíd say youíd be the man!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    377

    Default

    Try running the 7018 on DCEP.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    British Columbia
    Posts
    500

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyTIG View Post
    Try running the 7018 on DCEP.
    I agree

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Well, I worked on some scrap 5/8 plate this morning as a last resort before giving up. After many close attempts, I fingered it out. The trick is to make your side to side bead, then sweep straight up the root, maybe about 3/4 of an inch. You want to go far enough to let the last bead freeze, but not so far that the slag freezes before you sweep back down. The key is to build the weld so that you aren't always working in a huge pool of lava at 200 amps. Thanks for the input.

    BTW-Isn't 7018 spec'd all over the planet for reverse pole?
    Last edited by crzdriver; 12-07-2006 at 03:59 PM. Reason: update

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,495

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by crzdriver View Post
    BTW-Isn't 7018 spec'd all over the planet for reverse pole?
    Reverse polarity is DC Electrode Positive (DCEP). Sounds backwards, but that's the way it is, many people get confused about this. Straight polarity is DCEN.

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