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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    642

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishy Jim View Post
    I've got another good year to go on my 44#er of .035, but I'm thinking about dropping back down to .030 for some smaller stuff I have in the works. I might give the radnor a shot. I was thinking they took the lowest bidder for that stuff and slapped their name on it. What assurance do I have that it's actually L-56? Is there a vendor # or something I can check?
    If Radnor was L-56, what's to say it is L-56 quality and not a 'second'?

    I have to drive 20+ miles to get close to an Airgas store.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    DENVER, CO
    Posts
    15

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    I have customers using MM135's and MM175's with wires from Hobart, Radnor, Lincoln, Esab, Blue Demon, Am. Filler, Washington Alloy and many more. Many have a preference on brand of filler, but all are able to produce quite nice welds (no matter who made the wire) with their little blue machines.

    As far as the Radnor by Lincoln:
    About the only thing you, as the end consumer, have to go on is the WHS ID # on the box (it should be located near the bar code) that begins with an ED0XXXX. All I can say is that's how Lincoln's part #'s all begin. (The new labels on the boxes of 44# spools have Lincoln's stamp on the bottom left.) I'm sure that does not help too much in substantiating the claim of who manufactures it. As far as comparing quality to determine if it's as good or a "2nd", one thing you could do is compare the typical certs on the 2 items. Aside from that, the end user has to be the final judge of quality and value

    For the really discriminating consumer, send me a private message and I can email a scan of a packing slip from Lincoln.

    As an FYI: Hobart manufactures the Radnor brand FC wires and McKay does all the ss tig wire.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mpls, MN
    Posts
    1,790

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    So what about those of us running 18+ volts? I'm using national standard wire right now, and it's certainly not as good as the 10# of H-28 I ran through it before (but this was much cheaper), and it still produces nice welds with a reasonably wide sweet spot and minimal spatter.

    I can make a nice bead with HF S-6, but the wire is a pain to dial in (at least the roll I got).
    Syncrowave 250DX
    Invison 354MP
    XR Control and 30A

    Airco MED20 feeder
    Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
    Smith O/A rig
    And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at

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