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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,900

    Cool

    99% of the work i do online and for my friends and neighbors i do for free. The only time i charge is for the products i sell online, the broken stuff is free. I already have a good job so its my way to either teach someone else how to or to just pass my skill and knowlage. Plus it keeps my brain fresh . I just love to tinker...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    17

    Default Thank you for your help.

    Hey ... I just want to say thanks very much for the help, and I'm sorry I didn't check back here in the last few days ... I've been chasing my tail 16 hrs/day. I hope this doesn't create the impression I wasn't appreciative, because I think it's really fantastic that you guys are willing to help out.

    Bob ... I just sent you an email about the part.

    Also, for everyone on this forum, I have written some software that speeds up people's internet access, and I'd like to give any of you a free copy if you would like it. You can get it from my website at: http://www.montanasoft.com. Send me an email from the website, and tell me you are from the miller welding forum, and I'll send you a registration number that will unlock the 30-day trial limitations so that you can keep and use the software forever. I put in a lot of 20-hour days making that program, but I know its not the same as making something solid :-)

    Again, thanks. And if there is anything I can ever do to help anyone, please let me know.

    -Rob

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Wheeling
    Posts
    169

    Default

    MM,

    If you had a stick welder of some type, I have really great nickle rods for welding cast iron, I would have sent you 3, one to figure what this type welding about, one to get yourself comfortable and one to do the job. You would have yo file the weld area and true the ring up.

    This happened to an old Craftsman drill press that I had.

    Jerry

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jfsmith View Post
    MM,

    If you had a stick welder of some type, I have really great nickle rods for welding cast iron,

    Jerry
    Wow ... thanks for the offer ... this forum is really amazing. You know ... I used to have a cheapo Montgomery Wards 50-amp stick welder about 15 years ago, but that is 2500 miles away in my parent's garage back east. :-)

    But thanks anyway for the offer ...

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    17

    Default

    This isn't strictly about welding, but since you guys are so cool, I thought you might be interested in some other projects I have going:

    This Drill press is a cheapo 15" chinese model I got second hand for cheap. I has some quill slop, so I'm going to cut a slit halfway up the head and run a horizontal bolt through to adjust the bore size of the cast iron landing around the quill ... should be extremely solid after that.

    I'm also working on building a bigger air compressor (about 25 cfm @ 90 psi) for low bucks: watching ebay and craigslist for compressor pumps and motors, and I'll use an old galvanized steel water pump tank for the air tank.
    Those old-style water tanks are massively heavy ... definitely strong enough to handle 150 psi.

    I have the pressure switch, guages, regulator, etc. from my old tiny air compressor.

    We have a scrap yard in town that has these old tanks and sometimes old motors.

    Anyway ... take care, and good luck with all of your projects.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MontanaMan View Post
    I'm also working on building a bigger air compressor (about 25 cfm @ 90 psi) for low bucks: watching ebay and craigslist for compressor pumps and motors, and I'll use an old galvanized steel water pump tank for the air tank.
    Those old-style water tanks are massively heavy ... definitely strong enough to handle 150 psi.
    I built a compressor tank out of an old tank of unknown origin, it was a 600L tank, and it was quite massive. When filling it with air, one of the welds must have failed. A fraction of the tank remained in the garage, the rest made a hole in the wall and disappeard. I was standing almost right beside it when it blew. Can't remember a thing. The blast knocked me out.

    Make sure you check that the tank is pressure rated, and DON'T EXCEED.

    Hint: If the tank fails, go look for it in your neigbours backyard.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    southern Oregon
    Posts
    19

    Default

    MontanaMan befor using the tank for air pressure hydrotest the tank to maybe 150 to 200% of what you will be using for working pressure. Using a water tank is real riskey business. You might not be as lucky as Alky. If I am telling you something that you already are aware of please excuse me.

    Where I worked one time we had a pressure tank, that had an acid in it, rupture and killed four men.
    Don't ask me to do a dam thing, I'm retired
    Miller Syncrowave 250
    Linclon Idealarc sp 200
    Thermodyne Econo-pak50
    Victor O/A tourch.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Wheeling
    Posts
    169

    Default

    I would just find a place that rebuilds commercial shop compressor and buy a tank, less hassle, because of liability issues they won't sell you a bad one.

    Jerry
    Last edited by jfsmith; 09-17-2006 at 06:58 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Thanks for the input ... I think you guys are right about the water tanks. I've been doing more research, and there have been a lot of accidents with "unknown" tanks. First, I was thinking of using a Wel-Xtrol 60-gallon water tank, which is rated at 125 psi, then I thought an older, thicker galvanized tank would be better. But ... 125 psi is shaving it too close, and an old galvanized tank is too much of an unknown. It's probably safe, but why risk it? My daughter might be walking past this thing when she gets older.

    A better option, I think, is to use empty Freon tanks. They are guaranteed to have no water in them, and they have only been used once. And best of all, they are certified rated at 250 psi -- the same as air compressor tanks. Only downside is that they are small ... I think the biggest one I can find locally is an industrial sized one which is about 25-30 gallons. You can usually get them free from HVAC service contractors.

    Also ... a key component of tank safety is draining the tanks religiously. Even on my little nail-gun dual-tank compressor, I installed 2 ball valves to make it easy to drain the tanks, and I drained them after each use. It's suprising how much water comes out on a humid day.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
    Posts
    304

    Default tank drain

    Here's a little trick I found to regular tank draining....

    I don't know who decided that those little wing-nuttish looking drain valve are adaquate, but I shure don't like them. I remove them and replace them with a spring loaded drain valve designed for air brake storage tanks. Then you can leave the cord hanging to the side of the tank and just give it a yank as you pass by. After all, that's exactly what those little $5 parts are intended to be used for. I don't consider myself lazy, but any convienece I can work into my day, I'm all for it.

    Also, I'll throw this out there and see what happens...I know a lot of people (maily small shops/hobby garages that plumb their air systems with PVC pipe....DON"T!!! while pvc has a pressure rating suitable for most air systems, they are designed for fluids, not gases. I know people that have gotten many year's service out of them, but I wouldn't risk it. If a plastic pipe ruptures, there will be hundreds of little pvc arrowheads flying about the shop. Not to mention the fact that they can get brittle in cold weather (oh and decompressing gas has a tendency to chill them down as well)


    Just an FYI I thought should be out there.
    -SSS
    Last edited by SkidSteerSteve; 09-18-2006 at 08:44 AM.

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