welding aluminum beer cans

[benny365]

Hey turboglenn, I made those cans!!!

That code on the bottom of the first picture means May 6th 2008 A = Day shift #3 Decorator plant 66. I worked that day!!!!!

One of our customers is pepsi omaha, we ship alot of cans down there.

I am honored to have made those cans for you to weld.

there is actually varnish on the very bottom of the can to help it slide during production, make sure to grind that off. in the dome there is no varnish.

[turboglenn]

Hey turboglenn, I made those cans!!!

That code on the bottom of the first picture means May 6th 2008 A = Day shift #3 Decorator plant 66. I worked that day!!!!!

One of our customers is pepsi omaha, we ship alot of cans down there.

I am honored to have made those cans for you to weld.

there is actually varnish on the very bottom of the can to help it slide during production, make sure to grind that off. in the dome there is no varnish.

That's pretty cool to know I wonder if the latest ones that i've done were made by you as well? I'll have to post up pics tonight or so. I've got a lot going on with my woman leaving for San Antonio Tx (she's air force) and have been just busy as **** here the last few days. I'll post teh pics where we can see the numbers on them as well

If you ever get out this way to go to the plant hit me up and you can stop by and burn some rod on my machines or whatever.

Glenn

[Bodybagger]

Man, I'm going to have to be nicer to people.

It sure is a small world!

[Craig in Denver]

There is actually varnish on the very bottom of the can to help it slide during production, make sure to grind that off. in the dome there is no varnish.

WHAT!?!?! So how long have YOU been doing that to me?!?! Seriously, how long have the bottoms been varnished? I've toyed with welding cans for awhile, some OK; some real bad.

[Don52]

First attempt to TIG weld two pop cans together.

-I also found that it was difficult to melt both sides.
-The heat always wanted to go to one side.
-The following were my settings:

Main Amperage = 30 amps
Start Amps = 10amps (Default start time and polarity)
Torch = 0.040 Tri Mix ground with 1/64" Flat
Cup = # 4
Torch = Weldcraft WP-17
Gas = 100% Argon at 12cfph with a gas lens
Rod = 1/16" 4043

Balance = 70%
Frequency = 150Hz

[turboglenn]

First attempt to TIG weld two pop cans together.

-I also found that it was difficult to melt both sides.
-The heat always wanted to go to one side.
-The following were my settings:

Main Amperage = 30 amps
Start Amps = 10amps (Default start time and polarity)
Torch = 0.040 thoriated ground just slightly with a # 4 cup on a WP-17 torch
Gas = 100% Argon at 12cfph with a gas lens
Rod = 1/16" 4043

Balance = 70%
Frequency = 150Hz

That ALWAYS happens to me...the trick (for me anyway) is to get a puddle going, then lean that cup back and really push the puddle forward. with the arc and gas.... 4043 by nature "wets" better than 5356 so it should be easier...keep the tungsten close and aim it where there's no heat going(i find myself moving it from the angle edge of one can right over to the other when starting the puddle or if it looses "shape" and needs re-heated.

Then once the puddle is built and fluid, lean that cup back, keep the heat on the filler (and keep the rod in the whole time..no dipping has done me best) and then just push the puddle while steadily adding filler to cool the material...those are my tips anyway, hope they help..You weld looks good to me though *shrugs*

Might wanna go to 20-25 amps...25 is sketchy for me...30 leans towards burning holes real fast if the arc wanders to one side and too high. Patience helps a TON too :P

[Don52]

Thanks for the tips.

(i find myself moving it from the angle edge of one can right over to the other when starting the puddle or if it looses "shape" and needs re-heated.)

I am going to try that to allow me to melt each side. I know that the 150 Hz causes a stiffer arc, compared to what others have used, but I have found that I can make a smaller weld bead, with the higher frequency. I like it because it allows me to get the arc to dig down into the center trough.

Might wanna go to 20-25 amps...25 is sketchy for me...30 leans towards burning holes real fast if the arc wanders to one side and too high. Patience helps a TON too :P

I set the max amps to 30, but I let up on the pedal once I start welding so I am actually welding at a lower current.

Thanks again,
Don

[brian.cuellar]

well instead of welding to beer cans together . do what I do. I buy the 40 oz cans

[tcseacliff]

I believe the beer cans have special coatings on the iside to prserve the beer, that is probably conmtaminating every weld

[benny365]

All aluminum cans have varnish on them to keep the liquids from eating a hole in the can body, 115 Milligrams to be exact. Oh and the frost brewed liner on the Coors cans is Bull****, just blue varnish. As long as you don't burn through you should be safe from contamination