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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    142

    Default

    Hey turboglenn, I made those cans!!!

    That code on the bottom of the first picture means May 6th 2008 A = Day shift #3 Decorator plant 66. I worked that day!!!!!

    One of our customers is pepsi omaha, we ship alot of cans down there.

    I am honored to have made those cans for you to weld.

    there is actually varnish on the very bottom of the can to help it slide during production, make sure to grind that off. in the dome there is no varnish.
    MM 211 W/ Spoolgun
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  2. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    447

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by benny365 View Post
    Hey turboglenn, I made those cans!!!

    That code on the bottom of the first picture means May 6th 2008 A = Day shift #3 Decorator plant 66. I worked that day!!!!!

    One of our customers is pepsi omaha, we ship alot of cans down there.

    I am honored to have made those cans for you to weld.

    there is actually varnish on the very bottom of the can to help it slide during production, make sure to grind that off. in the dome there is no varnish.
    That's pretty cool to know I wonder if the latest ones that i've done were made by you as well? I'll have to post up pics tonight or so. I've got a lot going on with my woman leaving for San Antonio Tx (she's air force) and have been just busy as **** here the last few days. I'll post teh pics where we can see the numbers on them as well

    If you ever get out this way to go to the plant hit me up and you can stop by and burn some rod on my machines or whatever.

    Glenn
    Dynasty 200DX
    Hobart Handler 135
    Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
    Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
    Hypertherm Powermax 45
    Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    891

    Default

    Man, I'm going to have to be nicer to people.

    It sure is a small world!

    80% of failures are from 20% of causes
    Never compromise your principles today in the name of furthering them in the future.
    "All I ever wanted was an honest week's pay for an honest day's work." -Sgt. Bilko
    "We are generally better persuaded by reasons we discover ourselves than by those given to us by others." -Pascal
    "Since we cannot know all that there is to be known about anything, we ought to know a little about everything." -Pascal

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    673

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by benny365 View Post
    There is actually varnish on the very bottom of the can to help it slide during production, make sure to grind that off. in the dome there is no varnish.
    WHAT!?!?! So how long have YOU been doing that to me?!?! Seriously, how long have the bottoms been varnished? I've toyed with welding cans for awhile, some OK; some real bad.
    RETIRED desk jockey.

    Hobby weldor with a little training.

    Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.

    Miller Syncrowave 250.

  5. #45
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Troy, MI
    Posts
    340

    Default

    First attempt to TIG weld two pop cans together.

    -I also found that it was difficult to melt both sides.
    -The heat always wanted to go to one side.
    -The following were my settings:

    Main Amperage = 30 amps
    Start Amps = 10amps (Default start time and polarity)
    Torch = 0.040 Tri Mix ground with 1/64" Flat
    Cup = # 4
    Torch = Weldcraft WP-17
    Gas = 100% Argon at 12cfph with a gas lens
    Rod = 1/16" 4043

    Balance = 70%
    Frequency = 150Hz
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Don52; 11-03-2008 at 07:39 PM.

    Miller Thunderbolt
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    Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
    Clausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe
    16" DuAll Saw
    15" Drill Press
    7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
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    Bridgeport

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    447

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Don52 View Post
    First attempt to TIG weld two pop cans together.

    -I also found that it was difficult to melt both sides.
    -The heat always wanted to go to one side.
    -The following were my settings:

    Main Amperage = 30 amps
    Start Amps = 10amps (Default start time and polarity)
    Torch = 0.040 thoriated ground just slightly with a # 4 cup on a WP-17 torch
    Gas = 100% Argon at 12cfph with a gas lens
    Rod = 1/16" 4043

    Balance = 70%
    Frequency = 150Hz

    That ALWAYS happens to me...the trick (for me anyway) is to get a puddle going, then lean that cup back and really push the puddle forward. with the arc and gas.... 4043 by nature "wets" better than 5356 so it should be easier...keep the tungsten close and aim it where there's no heat going(i find myself moving it from the angle edge of one can right over to the other when starting the puddle or if it looses "shape" and needs re-heated.

    Then once the puddle is built and fluid, lean that cup back, keep the heat on the filler (and keep the rod in the whole time..no dipping has done me best) and then just push the puddle while steadily adding filler to cool the material...those are my tips anyway, hope they help..You weld looks good to me though *shrugs*

    Might wanna go to 20-25 amps...25 is sketchy for me...30 leans towards burning holes real fast if the arc wanders to one side and too high. Patience helps a TON too :P
    Dynasty 200DX
    Hobart Handler 135
    Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
    Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
    Hypertherm Powermax 45
    Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

  7. #47
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Troy, MI
    Posts
    340

    Default

    Thanks for the tips.
    Quote Originally Posted by turboglenn View Post

    (i find myself moving it from the angle edge of one can right over to the other when starting the puddle or if it looses "shape" and needs re-heated.)
    I am going to try that to allow me to melt each side. I know that the 150 Hz causes a stiffer arc, compared to what others have used, but I have found that I can make a smaller weld bead, with the higher frequency. I like it because it allows me to get the arc to dig down into the center trough.

    Might wanna go to 20-25 amps...25 is sketchy for me...30 leans towards burning holes real fast if the arc wanders to one side and too high. Patience helps a TON too :P
    I set the max amps to 30, but I let up on the pedal once I start welding so I am actually welding at a lower current.

    Thanks again,
    Don

    Miller Thunderbolt
    Smith Oxyacetylene Torch
    Miller Dynasty 200DX
    Lincoln SP-250 MIG Welder
    Clausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe
    16" DuAll Saw
    15" Drill Press
    7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw
    20 Ton Arbor Press
    Bridgeport

  8. #48

    Thumbs up

    well instead of welding to beer cans together . do what I do. I buy the 40 oz cans

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    1

    Default beer cans

    I believe the beer cans have special coatings on the iside to prserve the beer, that is probably conmtaminating every weld

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    142

    Default

    All aluminum cans have varnish on them to keep the liquids from eating a hole in the can body, 115 Milligrams to be exact. Oh and the frost brewed liner on the Coors cans is Bull****, just blue varnish. As long as you don't burn through you should be safe from contamination
    MM 211 W/ Spoolgun
    Diversion 180
    Spectrum 375 X-TREME
    Portable Victor O/A
    Palmgren Bench Drill Press
    14" Evolution Dry Saw
    IR 60 Gal. 3 HP Compressor
    Speedglas 9100x
    My Brain

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