MIne look about like the onse above, but my big issue is the arc wanting to jump to one can and heat it up perfect and the other stays to cold.. a bit of torch manipulation helps though.. I've played with all sorts of settings and being that i've only played with pulsing a handfull of times i need more practice with it to get good at it.
I will have some pics of my attemps up soon enough.. **** tonight i may even post the few i've already done.... In my "mini-lab" thread in this section there is a can to can weld in the first post the name i s "redbullhalfa$$" or something with "halfa$$" in it.
Results 31 to 40 of 64
Thread: welding aluminum beer cans
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10-02-2008, 06:48 PM #31
Dynasty 200DX
Hobart Handler 135
Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
Hypertherm Powermax 45
Just about every other hand tool you can imagine
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10-02-2008, 09:58 PM #32
Senior Member
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- Feb 2008
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- flat , and lots of dirt
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Turbo...........
You have to tilt the torch/arc more towards the direction of travel than normal, while keeping the filler in the leading edge of the puddle. Weave the torch, or fillet if you feel like it.
SYNCROWAVE 200
Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
Makita Everything else
2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
"Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
USA 15T, 15V
www.myspace.com/blackbird455
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder
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10-04-2008, 09:04 PM #33
Senior Member
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As I mentioned in another thread.......
the .040 tungs didn't work out too good, it caused alot of instability and wobble even burned through in a couple of places.SYNCROWAVE 200
Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
Makita Everything else
2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
"Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
USA 15T, 15V
www.myspace.com/blackbird455
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder
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10-05-2008, 03:45 AM #34
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- stationed in bamberg germay
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ok when i did it i wish i had back gased, had a smaller tung, and smaller filler. but i did it and got a 4 day weekend out of it. i had my machine maxed and was using the pedel had a pure 3/32 tung 4043 1/8 filler my balence was in the middle (its all wrighten in german) and i think the freq was around between 175 and 200 hz and the tung was balled i dont have pics because the recovery ncoic crushed it befor i had a chance.
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10-06-2008, 09:36 PM #35
Hooraaah!!! I did my first can with no holes what so ever!!! The only prep i did was take a piece of "fine" scotch brite pad (the stuff used in auto body shops) and scuffed the bottom of both cans, no wire brush, no acetone or anything else

The settings were as follows
Main Amperage = 20 amps
Start Amps = 10amps (Default start time and polarity)
Torch = 0.040 thoriated ground just slightly with a # 4 cup on a WP-9 torch
Gas = 100% Argon at 11cfph
Pulse Settings
P.P.S. = 5
Peak = 80%
Background = 40%
Balance = 70%
Frequency = 67Hz - pretty low for an inverter machine IMO
I think i could have dialed in 5-10 more amps in the main control to smooth out the "blobbed spot" that formed after I accidentally dipped and contaminated the tungsten But, instead of stopping to fix the tungsten i just kept on welding, said to myself "just said what the heck, I've burned holes in all of them so far anyway".. LOL
Here's some pics as proof... some are a bit blurry, i suck at macro pictures HAHA (there's also a pic of some little objects that came from boredome... I cut the letter G from 1/4 inch steel with a oxy torch... not bad for me IMO )
EDIT: I didn't take any pics, but today i used a # 3 oxy welding tip and some "alumiweld" brazing stick that i got at harbor freight Saturday and my god was that not only easy as could be, but the appearance was great too (save for the burning of the paint and discoloration of the can where the labeling is from radiant heat)Last edited by turboglenn; 10-06-2008 at 09:43 PM.
Dynasty 200DX
Hobart Handler 135
Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
Hypertherm Powermax 45
Just about every other hand tool you can imagine
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10-06-2008, 10:47 PM #36
RETIRED desk jockey.
Hobby weldor with a little training.
Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.
Miller Syncrowave 250.
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10-07-2008, 11:16 AM #37
Senior Member
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- flat , and lots of dirt
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Nice TG!!!
SYNCROWAVE 200
Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
Makita Everything else
2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
"Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
USA 15T, 15V
www.myspace.com/blackbird455
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder
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10-16-2008, 09:42 PM #38
Member
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I first welded two soda cans together at work when i had nothin to do i did it with a syncrowave 250 with no pulse or anything. I got it my first try it easy now. Has anyone ever heard of anyone actually welding aluminum foil together.
Thermal Arc GTSW300
Syncrowave 300
Handler 125
Acorn Table
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10-16-2008, 10:54 PM #39
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
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- 3
There's actually a video of a guy welding Al foil together on here. If you look up the instructional videos on the Miller website there is samples of the video and he shows how to do it. I'll try it tomorrow...
Steve
Syncrowave 250 DX
Millermatic 252
50 amp Plasma Cutter
Big Brute Rotary Draw Bender
Custom Tubing Notcher
Holland Mill
Atlas Lathe
etc, etc.
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10-17-2008, 07:05 AM #40
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i have seen that but he is kinda cheatin and i mean truly welding it together like two flat pieces on a table never the less that is a pretty cool trick
Thermal Arc GTSW300
Syncrowave 300
Handler 125
Acorn Table



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And thanks for the detailed settings, even though I can't use 'em on a Syncrowave.








