I have done this with my Syncro @ 10 amps, no pulse, .020 gold band tungs sharpened to a semi pencil point with a flat(magnifying lens required), .020 gas lens.
Heres a couple of hints:
Clean the crap out of the cans, they have a lacquer coating. Use MEK or acetone first, then stainless brush.
Don't try to weld the tops, there is an adhesive sealant between the top and the can, which gives off gnarly fumes, and the smoke contaminates the weld. Maybe if I had a smaller cup I would try the tops again.
The wall thickness is around .007 , slightly thicker at the base, so setup accordingly.
I will have pics of this.
OK HERE IT IS:
notice the nice weave, open root gap of about .040 and I had to use 18 amps this time.
the burn holes are from where it was grounding. Not my best, but I had just come from the gym and my arms were smoked, and I had Mississippi Delta mosquitoes trying to drain me/carry my filler rod off.....I guess cause its shiny
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Thread: welding aluminum beer cans
09-30-2008, 02:30 AM #11Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- flat , and lots of dirt
Last edited by Blackbird455; 09-30-2008 at 07:38 PM.SYNCROWAVE 200
Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
Makita Everything else
2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
"Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
USA 15T, 15V
http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder