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Thread: time warp

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    843

    Default time warp

    New to forum-always lurked but never had time to join and be active.
    I own a small job shop and am always learning how out of date my 20+ year old skills are when I read some of the posts. I am always learning by either experiance or reading.
    I dont see or read much on controlling warpage from welding. My past has always tought me that you can never have too many clamps or tacs prior to striking your first arc. Then there is the old stand by of using experiance to guide you and counter the warp before you clamp it up. The last method being a guessing game that doesnt always work, as I recently found when doing a large frame for a 8' by 8' out door sign standing 10 feet high. Made from 8" channel on a 8" boxed channel post. Looked like a giant field goal post before the sign was put in. I couldnt clamp it up to my table seeing how it was a bit too large to fit (over 18' over all). I layed it out on "H" beams and guestimated the amount it would pull. After stitching it up I was pleased to see it pulled perfectly into square. And it needed to because the sign frame was square and had to fit into it near perfectly. So I tacked in my gussets and started to finish weld it. Taking plenty of time to not over heat any area, generally laying about 1-1/2" of weld at a time and letting it cool. It stayed straight until I did the finish welds on the gussets, then it pulled the top (mind you thats 8' away from the welded area) out a good 3/8".
    So if any of you needed to weld a 8" box dead center into a 8' long piece of channel what would you have done to keep it from pulling ?
    Always looking for a better way to do the same old thing.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ocean City, Maryland
    Posts
    951

    Default

    Let me know when you find, I wrestle with the same thing. Seems you can't guess how far it will go. Its always farther than I guessed
    Scott
    HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,908

    Cool

    I don't worry about it too much anymore. After 30 years of welding you learn what to do and what not to do. And where to place your weld also to help you out on your warpage problems. Here is a link of some of what i do, some have 1,000 pcs in them. Yes they warp but only for a minute, when i weld the bottom side on a controlled weld the straighten where they need to be. When they are cool they are arrow straight, almost like i planned it that way. I built jigs at work so you can see which way your tacks pull the part, i also clamp as much as i can using alot of clamps, grips and even bolts. Some of my welding fixtures have 20 pairs of vise grips on them. Some of my clamps are homemade to keep from buying 20 more pairs of grips that wouldn't have worked there in the first place. Lots of practice and good work bench's and fixtures will have your warpage problem down. Also try to put as much heat on the backside and you welded on the frontside either with the weld or a torch afterwards...Bob
    http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/aameta...ster/my_photos
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ocean City, Maryland
    Posts
    951

    Default

    I guess 25 years experience isn't enough, I'll have to wait till 30yrs....ha ha ha. Thanks for the advice. makes perfect sense what you said. Your right about the clamps, can't have to many
    Scott
    HMW [Heavy Metal welding]

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