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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    7

    Default Maxstar 200 STR How to check if cord is properly wired?

    Maxstar 200 How to check if cord is wired properlyI bought a used Maxstar 200 Str. By all rights it looks almost brand new... but I have an issue. I popped open the plug end because there's a leviton 6-50 on it in the 30 amp configuration ( horizontal blades, same width, I need 50 configuration) and noticed that the power cord must have been swapped out at one point? According to the manual online, the wires are supposed to be color coded.. but all I have are three blacks and a green/yellow striped. I think I was supposed to find a white, black, green, and red. Now I'm in the "just-purchased a used machine, nervous stage." I'm thinking about opening it up to see what's going on inside before I power it up. I've heard the Maxstars/Dynastys will still run if they are wired wrong inside the machine but could cause faults, eventually. SO if anyone has a photo of the stock power block inside, or whatever it is where the input power is wired to the machine, I'd like to see a photo. The manual makes only references to the colored wires so I don't know what I'm dealing with on the plug end or what I'm looking for on the inside of the machine. I'd rather not put all faith in whomever swapped the power cord and put the plug on before me. I just want to make sure I have everything right.Also, on the current power cord ( 3 blacks, one green/yellow) how do I know what wire is what? Are the individual insulated wires labeled so you can tell the blacks apart from each end? I think I saw a 1 on one of them but haven't removed old plug yet completely. I'd prefer not to take the cover off if I don't have to, and I have no idea how difficult it is to access the terminals but this is making me nervous/ I'm also wondering why an almost brand new machine has a non-oem cord on it? Any feedback would be appreciated. Anyone know how long the stock power cord is? I suppose it's possible they wanted a longer cord...but heck, that's what extension cords are for, right? I dunno. THX.p.s. I submitted this question on ww too.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    2

    Default

    According to the owners manual below , if I'm reading this correctly that machine can run on either 3 phase or single phase. I would guess that it is wired for 3 phase if there are 3 black wires and one ground. I would check out the manual and check the inside of the machine to make sure .Can you ask the previous owner what it was wired for?

    Re-reading parts of the manual, I would suggest start on page 14 of the manual as it will answer most if not all of your questions.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o2233y_mil.pdf
    Last edited by bfjou812; 08-29-2014 at 12:27 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    587

    Default

    Are you talking about the machines jumper wires? Or the cords wiring color? The cord is probably just generic cord from a hardware store so it may not have correct coloration.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Northern Arizona
    Posts
    513

    Default

    The blades of the 6-50 plug are you l1 and l2 hot leads for single phase 230v operation. Just make sure the wires on the plug/cord go to the correct lugs on the inside of the machine. The manual should spec the l1, l2 and l3 locations inside the machine. The last wire is a ground. Ground is green in the us but can be green with a yellow stripe. The orientation of l1 and l2 does not matter as long as they are on the hot pins and not the ground or something weird.
    MillerMatic 251
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,905

    Default

    Well if you remove the cover, verify that the wires on the switch, go black, white red, left to right, And single phase naturally does not use the red.

    The green will be mounted to the cover or frame on the left side case

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    7

    Default Ok....

    Elvis said "Just make sure the wires on the plug/cord go to the correct lugs on the inside of the machine. The manual should spec the l1, l2 and l3 locations inside the machine. The last wire is a ground."


    And thus is my dilemma, I haven't been able to verify proper internal power cable wiring in any manuals, parts or otherwise.


    Cruizer said: "Well if you remove the cover, verify that the wires on the switch, go black, white red, left to right, And single phase naturally does not use the red."

    So... hmm the power cable goes right to the switch? Does this mean I might be able to get away with just removing the rear of machine and not the whole case cover?


    Thank you for the response all, indeed you guys understand my issue precisely. I am trying to verify the wires are in proper locations inside the machine, or at least identify how the machine was wired so I can build my plug ac'cord'ingly. I have heard there might be a diagram on the inside of machine?


    Valuable information Cruizer... could you elaborate on orientation as far as left to right... ? This is exactly the info I need. Are you familiar with the procedure for accessing this part of the machine? The only way I'll be able to identify the wires for my plug is to look at inside of machine. My LWS said they could put an OEM power cable on but it will cost 85 bucks.. The cord on it now is more than acceptable.. The inner sheilded wires (3 blacks, one green) are actually labeled 1,2, etc, so if I can visually verify where they are connected inside, everything else will be self-explanatory. There's a good possibility I'm making a big deal out of nothing, since the cable on it now is a 4 wire, of which the ground is color coded, and there is one wire not used on the previous plug. If L1 and L2 are swappable in single phase, I could probably just wire my new plug on and call it a day. Something in me just wants to check previous owners work. Thanks again. Also being a 2014 model, I'm wondering if I shouldn't have that oem cable put on as far as warranty coverage. I don't know. This thing was on display or something. Not sure if the warranty even follows, but it's darn near new. I registered it, never was registered before me. I don't expect any issues if something goes wonky but you never know.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,905

    Default

    Take the blue case off, Do NOT Remove the back side, Black, white, Red looking from front to back and left to right.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    Take the blue case off, Do NOT Remove the back side, Black, white, Red looking from front to back and left to right.

    Jackpot Cruizer! My hero today. Thank you so much. That bit of info saved me at least 85 bucks. I'll buy you a six pack if you give me your paypal email.

    Now just as a curiosity, how to translate that into Leg #'s


    Is this correct L1, L2, L3, GRND, where black typically gets the L1 designation for 220V? I only ask cause I often see the Miller wiring referenced in L #'s too. Thank you again.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,905

    Default

    And you care about L123 why? I told you what to look for, ok,,,, L1 is Black, L2 is White, L3 is red, got it! Green is case, geez

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