Hi Picked up the shop master a year ago been playing with it off and on ever since finally figured out how to Tig weld 18 gauge sheet metal for my car with it & can lay a nice bead on bench not so pretty on car lol oh well im learning. Ok well I figured out the Tig for steal so now I wanna figure out this AC deal of it on Aluminum.............................. SON OF A $%$#$%#$@#$@ thats hard or my welders junk! Naw last couple tries finally had me kind of laying out a bead staying shiny with out digging out the aluminum but now I am out of scrap Alum need to go find more and IM almost out of a big bottle of Argon already. See if this sounds right keep in mind I dont know squat about welding. HF set freq at about 65-70 current about 45-50 dig control set at 0 all on peddle not much to that machine kind of like using howitzer cannon for plinking. 3/16 alum sheet diamond plate and 3/16 filler rod pure tungsten 1/16 rod short #6 cup 15cfh pure Argon, Most all my welds look BLACK and look like some one dug them out of the alum with a Pick and hammer UGLY UGLY UGLY then out of now where I tried again as above and boom laid down 3 nice looking shiny beads but I cant add any rod to it just plops out and dies in blob never pools into a bead. I read in one of my manuals that came with the equipment it says on SOME machines Dig control is the Balance control when used in AC mode ON SOME MACHINES is the Shop Master that way? cause right now all I have is current and frequency to adjust ? Also Because of way machine doesn't want to lay down a bead is it possible machine is not hooked up right? could my ground be wrong? I believe I have machine set up with it set up DCEN and if my understanding is correct when I want to weld Aluminum I just switch the switch to AC and for steal back to GTAW and dont have to swap any cables or am I wrong???? and if im not wrong I bet something is wrong with my equipment. Thanks for any and all help in advance
Results 1 to 8 of 8
08-22-2014, 10:07 PM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2014
- Pahrump NV
Shopmaster 300 & HF 251D TIG please help with set up for ALUM
Last edited by Doright; 08-22-2014 at 10:13 PM.
08-23-2014, 02:23 PM #2
OK, you've learned that its impossible to tig aluminum without a hf box, as the weld goes everywhere but where you want it to go. however since HF is rather dangerous, your going to need a remote to turn it off and on. I didn't read most of your post though, kinda long. Maybe make it a little more simple.
08-24-2014, 10:31 AM #3Junior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2014
- Pahrump NV
Your comment is about as useful as Tits on a bore hog
If your not gonna read a persons post but yet offer comment your nothing more than a Punk with a CB radio that cant keep their mouth shut, a post ***** nothing more.
But I believe I have found my own answers any way with my own research CCC and maybe a lill preheat and better heat sinks thanks for nothing tho.
08-24-2014, 11:09 AM #4
getting mad at Cruizer for his response was equally silly...
You need to take a little time to study TIG theory... so you understand the process..
Here is a good place to start..
Last edited by H80N; 08-24-2014 at 11:33 AM..
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......
“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”
Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...
My Blue Stuff:
Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..
08-24-2014, 10:56 PM #5
Pretty much what I was saying, is that your post does not make much sense, so all I got was maybe half of it. maybe tell us exactly what you have, material, tungsten, gas, and if your hf is working. Maybe if you have ever welded before.
Quite confused as to what you are asking.
08-25-2014, 09:31 AM #6
08-25-2014, 09:07 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Milan Michigan
We want to help but you threw alot at us at once, Please be a little more direct with your questions so we can help.
Unfortunately I don't have a shopmaster so I don't know how good they work but would guess it to be a low end tig because its not square wave or inverter technology so that's why Cruizer mentioned about the arc being all over the place.
I have however ran my HF 251 High Freq box of my Trail blazer and it did work but not as good as the synchrowave that I had at the time and not even close to my Dynasty.
The shop master will definitely run tig aluminum so when you say you cant add filler metal you either have the machine set up wrong, don't have it in the right mode or you don't know how to weld it.
You need to be on AC with High Freq continuouse.
As far as Cruizer goes, Please be a little more respectful, He helps a lot of people here and was trying to help you, You need to be a little more direct with your questions and we will do our best to help you.
Regards, Portable Welder
08-27-2014, 08:17 PM #8
1/16" tungsten is too small for the amperage required to do 3/16" aluminum which is going to be between 180-200A. I would use 1/8" and nothing smaller than 3/32".
From your description of what your filler rod is doing my guess is your torch angle is too much toward the filler and not toward the base material. This results in overheating the filler causing it to fall off the end instead of melting into the puddle as it should when you attempt to dip. Because it's too big for the task at hand, as soon as it falls off it cools in a blob on the base material.
Smaller filler, larger tungsten, perhaps more amperage and change your torch angle to almost straight up.MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
Syncrowave 180 SD
Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
*Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
*WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110