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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
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    7,841

    Default

    Say you've got a Harley, and your low on oil at some hobucking town. No Harley oil around, the recommended oil for it is 15-40 Diesel oil. Why is that. Hmmm, CAUSE of the ZINC content. Gotta keep that engine friction free and COOL!

    Just a thought

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    northern NJ
    Posts
    1,856

    Default

    I don't want to start an argument about what is the best oil but cruizer is right about zinc content. I use Brad Penn oil exclusively in my welder. Has plenty of zinc. Zinc content is not only for air-cooled engines but also for older water cooled cars too.

    http://penngrade1.com/
    MM250
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    Arco roto-phase model M
    Vectrax 7x12 band saw
    Miller spectrum 875
    30a spoolgun w/wc-24
    Syncrowave 250
    RCCS-14

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,212

    Thumbs up

    For our power equipment like welders, gensets, pumps, snowblowers, tillers etc... and diesel stuff... ALL get Shell Rotella....

    (Commercial Diesel oils are allowed a healthy dose of ZINC and other additives)
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Oswego IL
    Posts
    654

    Default no argument on oil ....but

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    Say you've got a Harley, and your low on oil at some hobucking town. No Harley oil around, the recommended oil for it is 15-40 Diesel oil. Why is that. Hmmm, CAUSE of the ZINC content. Gotta keep that engine friction free and COOL!

    Just a thought
    The zinc content of the oil is more for the valve guides of the engine. As for vaccum loss normally it is from either worn guides, or ring seal, yes a heavier oil will mask this for a period but will return shortly. Onan in particular run solid lifters, ie, they have no need for light weight oils as the lifters do not need to be "pumped up". Now a kohler 15w40 will kill it, as the lifters are hydraulic and need a thinner oil for the engine to preform in the cold, yes i to agree a syntheic 5w-40, or 5w-50 is an ideal oil as long as the engine has been broken in with the conventional 10w30 base oil.
    Back to the onan, no one talks about valve adjustments or decarboning the head, as this should be a must for anyone wishing to keep there onan past a 1000hrs. Lucky the onans are becoming the detriot 2 stroke of the world as they have been replaced in nearly everything by kohler or honda. Personally i hate onans, bolt breaking, noisy, fuel guzzling, high priced parts.....etc
    Kevin
    XMT 304
    Miller Spectrum 625
    Miller 30a spool gun
    S22a
    Miller Legend 302
    Lincoln LN25
    Ford f450 Maintainer Srv Truck

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    226

    Default

    I've got the Subaru engine in my bobcat this is out of the engine manual. Should I not go by it.
    ENGINE OIL
    Recommendations
    Use premium quality motor oil, Class SJ or SL. Look for the SAE
    (Society of Automotive Engineers) or API viscosity grade. Referring to
    the table below, choose the viscosity grade appropriate for the ambient
    temperatures expected during the period of time until the next sched-
    uled oil change.
    Single-grade SAE 30 oil is preferable when temperatures are 50° and
    90°F (10° - 32°C).
    If multi-grade oil is used, oil consumption tends to increase if the ambi-
    ent temperature is high.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,841

    Default

    Not compltely sure why but the Lincoln/Miller EFI Kohlers don't appear to like the 5 -40, They pur along nicely on the 15-50 though. Been using 15-40 diesel oil in all sorts of welder air cooled units for like 10 years in the summer and a 5-40 in the winter with zero problems, was also using 5-50 Ultimate untill they took the Zinc out (plugged up the Cat converters), Defy is good though.Zinc just keeps these engines somewhat cooler. Just a extreme pressure anti wear additive for these high reving engines,, not just for valves.. Been fixing these engines for just over 20years

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,841

    Default

    Everybody has different thoughts on the matter. What we can agree on is that automotive oil will kill a aircooled engine, plain and simple Reason behind synthetic oil like DEFY especially for the winter, is both the zinc content and zero moisture to get into, freeze and lockup the hydraulic lifters.

    Been to Kohler and Cummins
    Last edited by cruizer; 08-05-2014 at 07:49 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,841

    Default

    I have oh, about 2500 rig welders on my customer list, about 70 percent are running the aircooled. Zero engine crashes to 10K hrs over the past many, many years, thus not alot of work engine wise. I tell them what oil to run, and what filters.

    Decarbonizing the heads is a waste of my time, especially at 1000 hrs. I used to see many from the rental outfits, but now with the oil choices stabilized, pretty much zero from them engine wise anymore.. Correct oil, correct full flow filters (NO Fram, Hastings, Wix, or even Kohler), and set to the correct RPM, very few generator problems. The rig welders generally bring the machines in for service and preventative maintainance.

    Again, this is just me, I don't need the work, I don't advertise. Yet everyone knows me welder wise.
    Last edited by cruizer; 08-05-2014 at 07:57 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Oswego IL
    Posts
    654

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    I have oh, about 2500 rig welders on my customer list, about 70 percent are running the aircooled. Zero engine crashes to 10K hrs over the past many, many years, thus not alot of work engine wise. I tell them what oil to run, and what filters.

    Decarbonizing the heads is a waste of my time, especially at 1000 hrs. I used to see many from the rental outfits, but now with the oil choices stabilized, pretty much zero from them engine wise anymore.. Correct oil, correct full flow filters (NO Fram, Hastings, Wix, or even Kohler), and set to the correct RPM, very few generator problems. The rig welders generally bring the machines in for service and preventative maintainance.

    Again, this is just me, I don't need the work, I don't advertise. Yet everyone knows me welder wise.
    If a onan is used ie...burning rods, with good quality fuel, is maintained, ie oil changed with correct brand, then yes at 1000hrs decarboning the head is a waste of time, HOWEVER, if the engine is more of a gen set, ie, not loaded and not maintained, it needs to be done. The amount of carbon i have seen on these engines is amazing, also if you dont remove the heads ever, once you need to half the bolts break, and are a complete pita to get out. Also when the heads are removed, relapping the valves should be done, 90 percent of the time a weak onan is simply a burnt, or leaking valve. Very rarely do the rings fail or break. I have worked on onans from chippers, welders, concrete saws, and various pto set ups. Been an equipment mechanic for 17 years, not trying to tell you how to maintain your equipmemt or customers, as you have clearly found a method which works. However i have found to approach most broken equipmemt as improperly serviced, and maintained. Unless i have a decent history on it.
    Kevin
    XMT 304
    Miller Spectrum 625
    Miller 30a spool gun
    S22a
    Miller Legend 302
    Lincoln LN25
    Ford f450 Maintainer Srv Truck

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,841

    Default

    True enough, idling causes problems, my guys work the machines, they don't idle much. Perhaps there is the difference. If its a welder, I just load it a little past tolerance. Its amazing how much carbon blasts out of them, especially on the diesels. I like to do those at night. Fire and flaming chunks, kinda cool.

    As for a carboned up gasser. STP carb cleaner in the tank and a minor load will remove the carbon pretty quick. I use this method on the SA200's when the winter heater hose is left on in the summer months. Carbons them up pretty bad.. If you mist the intake with water, that frees the carbon as well.

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