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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    8

    Default Millermatic 200 no welding current

    NOW FIXED! See last post

    Hi, while welding, suddenly I was not able to get an arc. I can get a small sparks on both low and high voltage settings, but no current. Also, the Transformer hum slowly goes away when trying to strike.

    Check connections, cleaned ground clamp, cleaned gun, and then searched forums.

    Someone else had the same problem in 2011, although his solution was a gun fault ... this doesn't seem to be that. I did do the drive to ground check recommended in that post, and I get 15-16v (low voltage) setting when operating the gun and striking the arc (reading does not change when striking). Same on the high setting except voltage is 29+ volts.

    Feed motor runs, the contactor closes, and gas valve opens.

    It is a really old unit, and I cannot find a serial number. I have posted a photo in case it helps!

    m200_1.jpg
    Last edited by atgordon; 07-19-2014 at 10:04 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cave Creek Az
    Posts
    967

    Default

    If you ar getting voltage from the lug on the drive roll to the work clamp, but no voltag from the work clamp to the end of the gun you have a gun that the cable had pulled out of. Get a new gun.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,655

    Default

    Open it up, likely have a busted winding going to your output studs. Just have to yank on it, drill it and stuff it back on, unless it damaged the output stud, in which case you can get another, or Magiver it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Haven't checked the gun voltage yet ... will do so tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by walker View Post
    If you ar getting voltage from the lug on the drive roll to the work clamp, but no voltag from the work clamp to the end of the gun you have a gun that the cable had pulled out of. Get a new gun.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    8

    Default Gun problems?

    Checked the voltage from the welding wire exiting the gun to ground, shows 29V.

    I vaguely remember that the gun felt hot after I stopped welding, prior to it not working, so took the gun apart ... It looked like the insulation had melted and only a couple of the braided wires were attached (see last image below).

    Any suggestions on how to re-attached the wires? Do I clean everything up, feed them through the rearmost collar, and then tighten the collar onto the nozzle?

    Photos attached ....IMG_0922.jpg IMG_0923.jpg IMG_0924.jpg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,092

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by atgordon View Post
    Checked the voltage from the welding wire exiting the gun to ground, shows 29V.

    I vaguely remember that the gun felt hot after I stopped welding, prior to it not working, so took the gun apart ... It looked like the insulation had melted and only a couple of the braided wires were attached (see last image below).

    Any suggestions on how to re-attached the wires? Do I clean everything up, feed them through the rearmost collar, and then tighten the collar onto the nozzle?

    Photos attached ....IMG_0922.jpg IMG_0923.jpg IMG_0924.jpg
    This looks like a fine time to invest in a new gun....
    .

    *******************************************
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    8

    Default FIXED! Gun repair complete

    It was the gun, and since the welder has an optional GA-40 and non-conventional twist lock fitting, I really didn't want to go down the path of a new gun ...

    So ... found a GA-40C manual online:
    • cut off clamp ring holding the cable connector to the sleeve
    • removed the cable connector assembly
    • cut braided cables back to clean wire, all the same length
    • cut plastic sleeve back to ensure that the cables were clamped on the tapered part of the connector
    • slipped new clamp ring on sleeve
    • push assembled connector into sleeve
    • crimped new clamp ring
    • fed braided cables through clamp ring (spread them out over 360 deg)
    • clamped cable against cable connector by tightening clamp ring on the cable connector
    • reassembled gun


    Bingo .. welding like a champ!

    Appreciate the advice given (and the previous posts on this topic). Seems like the gun is the weakest link, and the most prone to fail!
    Last edited by atgordon; 07-19-2014 at 10:03 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ankeny, Iowa
    Posts
    43

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by atgordon View Post
    It was the gun, and since the welder has an optional GA-40 and non-conventional twist lock fitting, I really didn't want to go down the path of a new gun ...

    So ... found a GA-40C manual online:
    • cut off clamp ring holding the cable connector to the sleeve
    • removed the cable connector assembly
    • cut braided cables back to clean wire, all the same length
    • cut plastic sleeve back to ensure that the cables were clamped on the tapered part of the connector
    • slipped new clamp ring on sleeve
    • push assembled connector into sleeve
    • crimped new clamp ring
    • fed braided cables through clamp ring (spread them out over 360 deg)
    • clamped cable against cable connector by tightening clamp ring on the cable connector
    • reassembled gun


    Bingo .. welding like a champ!

    Appreciate the advice given (and the previous posts on this topic). Seems like the gun is the weakest link, and the most prone to fail!
    Good job and you were smart enough to cut back the wire until it was no longer heat damaged and I assume you cleaned up the barrel area nice and shiny.
    Miller MultiMate 200 MIG/ Stick/TIG
    Retired
    Journeyman Refrigeration Pipefitter
    Master Electrician
    Amateur Home shop Machinist & Welder

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