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  1. #11

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    What do you mean by Aluminum foil dam?
    I attempted this joint and it did not turn out the way I wanted it to. I think the gas lens may be an new purchase.

    Is the gas lens a handy tool to use all the time? or just in these joints?

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by zank View Post
    Yes, the bead can flow onto the third tube. Just make sure you aren't just bridging the gap. Don't be afraid of a bigger fillet. As Oscar said, a foil dam is a great tool. I use them a lot, especially when working with titanium. With that joint, I'd run a gas lens, #8 cup, and about 18-20 CFH. That should suffice to get the coverage you'll need with the additional stickout.


    Trying out a Dynasty by Zanconato Custom Cycles, on Flickr
    Zank,
    Which welder do you use? I think I'm very limited with my diversion. Not really sure how capable it is.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    23

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    Quote Originally Posted by ggodwin View Post
    What do you mean by Aluminum foil dam?
    I attempted this joint and it did not turn out the way I wanted it to. I think the gas lens may be an new purchase.

    Is the gas lens a handy tool to use all the time? or just in these joints?
    http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-4130.html


    a gas lens to save on argon is great if you know how to manage the stick out. If you go stupid crazy on the stick out, then you don't get any gas savings because you have to increase the argon flow. Keep the stickout as low as you can possibly manage, and you will be surprised how low you can turn down the argon flow without oxidation from the atmosphere.

    Of course the other edge of the sword is that you can use much longer stickouts IF you are willing to accept the greater argon consumption that goes along with longer stickouts. For these kinds of joints, when you're right in the middle of the "V", you pretty much have to use a longer stickout and accept that you're using more argon for that one joint.

    Even then, an aluminum foil dam works great in addition to a gas lens because argon just "rolls" around and off the joint because of it's density. It's denser than air, so it wants to flow downwards before it ends up mixing with the atmosphere naturally. Using both an aluminum foil dam AND a gas lens you can fine tune the argon consumption (the lowest being a close fitting dam and adjusting the argon flow to suit).

    Also, make absolutely certain you put a fresh clean grind on your tungsten. Get as long of a taper as you can (3-5x the diameter is what I would use on a 1/16" tungsten if I were you). If you just approach this weld with any old crappy crud'd up tungsten you found in a drawer, you're doomed to begin with. Little things like this (which we can't be sure of unless you disclose each and every single little detail in the beginning of the discussion) are what help out in the long run (meaning it will keep a very stable arc that will not tend to wander off to the sides as much as it would if you did not plan ahead for this type of joint).
    Last edited by OscarJr; 07-08-2014 at 11:23 AM.
    HTP Invertig221 D.V. Water-cooled
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