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  1. #41
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    Oct 2004
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    Edmonton, Alberta
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    The big problem in these was the electrical noise created when the primarys were squished together at the strain relief, hopefully you have not created more noise from doing this. You have to use a larger metal strain relief with a rubber insert and not the plastic type with the little fingers that bare into the sheathing.

  2. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    The big problem in these was the electrical noise created when the primarys were squished together at the strain relief, hopefully you have not created more noise from doing this. You have to use a larger metal strain relief with a rubber insert and not the plastic type with the little fingers that bare into the sheathing.
    well I don't think I did this.... it was VERY tight....I had to use a soap solution to pull the cord through.

    Lets go back to square 1. I want/need a longer cord.

    What do you suggest I do?

    I will gladly rip out the BIG cord.

    It would be nice and convenient to have at least a 15' cord. Can you suggest what to do here.

    The Miller OEM was 14ga which I thought was very "light".

  3. #43
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    Oct 2004
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    Edmonton, Alberta
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    It was 12 gage, 14 is pretty little, gotta get your gages correct. Engineeers designed the unit for that rated amperage which was 30 amps on 120 vac. .

    Doesn't help your welder run any better though with a larger input. just a waste of time and money. But fun to learn more about your machine all the same

  4. #44
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    Oct 2004
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    Want a 30' cord just go to a #10,

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    3,210

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    Want a 30' cord just go to a #10,
    HHHhhhmmm...

    you may want to think this over before you permanently attach a long power cord to your Dynasty 200DX..

    Part of the great joy and utility of owning and using the Dynasty 200DX is it's portability and ease of transport..

    The more you hang off of it the more awkward & harder it is to drag around from site to site...
    (Before you dismiss moving it... think about how useful it could become at places like..customer, brother, car buddy's garage etc)

    the more tentacles...the harder to transport..Why not make that 30 footer a removable extension??...

    Part of the reason I bought the Dynasty 200DX was it's extreme portability and how that complemented my Dynasty 350 Tigrunner.. that lives in the shop..
    Last edited by H80N; 05-25-2014 at 07:18 AM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  6. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by H80N View Post
    HHHhhhmmm...

    you may want to think this over before you permanently attach a long power cord to your Dynasty 200DX..

    Part of the great joy and utility of owning and using the Dynasty 200DX is it's portability and ease of transport..

    The more you hang off of it the more awkward & harder it is to drag around from site to site...
    (Before you dismiss moving it... think about how useful it could become at places like..customer, brother, car buddy's garage etc)

    the more tentacles...the harder to transport..Why not make that 30 footer a removable extension??...

    Part of the reason I bought the Dynasty 200DX was it's extreme portability and how that complemented my Dynasty 350 Tigrunner.. that lives in the shop..
    Excellent point.

    Back to voltage drop and my garage / shop.

    My main purpose at least for now is a car project....it is on a lift in my garage. My dedicated elec. service panel is on the back wall. Most of my welding is conducted about 15' away from the service panel so my ~ 16' extended cord (for now) is perfect.

    I could have done and my still may do the dedicated portable cord but at the time I was concerned about volt drop and having the most direct connection and the hassle of the big plug/receptacles.

  7. #47

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    H80N maybe you could kinda sorta decipher this for me....

    "The big problem in these was the electrical noise created when the primarys were squished together at the strain relief,

    hopefully you have not created more noise from doing this.

    You have to use a larger metal strain relief with a rubber insert and not the plastic type with the little fingers that bare into the sheathing."


    primarys- electrical power feed cables?

    squished together / strain relief = elec noise....?

    I used the Miller original one....and it was VERY tight...? so I need to change this out or use a smaller cord?

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,210

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scratchedup View Post
    H80N maybe you could kinda sorta decipher this for me....

    "The big problem in these was the electrical noise created when the primarys were squished together at the strain relief,

    hopefully you have not created more noise from doing this.

    You have to use a larger metal strain relief with a rubber insert and not the plastic type with the little fingers that bare into the sheathing."


    primarys- electrical power feed cables?

    squished together / strain relief = elec noise....?

    I used the Miller original one....and it was VERY tight...? so I need to change this out or use a smaller cord?
    I will leave that to Cruizer... he is the service guru on these.. and has vast experience on them.. not to forget access to the factory service notes, manuals and warnings..


    From my experience in chasing EMI & RFI demons in systems that I have either serviced or designed... I am not surprised that there could be that type noise coupling... and the answer might seem to defy conventional logic... wire and cable proximity and placement can be just as important as the laying of groundplane and signal paths on the circuit boards..

    one of the ingredients to the art of effective Grounding & Shielding is a touch of black magic...
    sometimes referred to as "FM"....
    Nodes that are prone to oscillation, eddy currents.. beating frequencies.. unintended coupling..etc.. etc... the choice of gremlins and combinations..is very broad..
    Last edited by H80N; 05-25-2014 at 10:12 AM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  9. #49

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    I hate these gremlins-

    Nodes that are prone to oscillation, eddy currents.. beating frequencies.. unintended coupling..etc.. etc.....

    Maybe I will just put the factory Miller power cord back on it.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,834

    Default

    Yes, most definitely put it back to how the designers designed the unit in the first place, I mean jamming #8 cord through where #12 was , is some words you don't like. I'm through with this tab anyways....

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