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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    557

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jbmprods View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Cgotto6 View Post
    I do appearance grade welds on all thicknesses (22g-1/2") my 180 can handle. Never had a problem. I don't use the auto set as it's a gimmick for novice welders. I use .023 and .030, never .035. The .023 is a little tougher to get set up just right but runs nice once it's set up.

    What exact problems are you having with the .023?
    welding 1/2" with a 180? it's good your not looking for structural integrity unless you hang it on a wall in an earthquake zone with the couch under it.
    Whys that? I do it very rarely, with proper joint prep, on butt welds. takes me about 5 passes which is time consuming but I have never had an inspector ever bock at one of my welds. I'm by no means claiming this is an ideal machine for that thickness but when I've been in a pinch it's worked fine.

  2. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JSFAB View Post
    You're wrong.
    Why is that??

    ITW owns Miller and Hobart....

    There mvp plugs interchange, gun parts interchange, mainly the only thing different is the color.

    Please chime in....

    ~John
    Life is to short for cheap tools.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    PacNorthWest
    Posts
    62

    Default

    John, I agree that Hobart and Miller machines share a few things as you said - but one thing they do NOT share is fine tuning - the Hobart 210, like most of their machines, has "click stops", 7 of them, to adjust the voltage while the MM211 uses an infinitely variable control for both volts and amps.

    In fact, every miller from the 140 on up has infinite voltage control while every Hobart clear up to the Ironman 230 has "click stops" - you just get a few MORE clicks with the larger machines, but I know on some of the stuff I do, I can tell a difference in the way it runs with just a couple TENTHS change in voltage.

    Haven't looked inside a Hobart to compare actual parts, mainly because the limitation of 7 choices from minimum to maximum voltage made my choice for me. Bought a 211 about a year and a half ago, sold it to a friend last year and moved up to a mm252 with dual running gear and a 30A spool gun.

    Liked the 211, but wanted more of everything - longer torch, longer spool gun, more power, auto-switch between guns, etc.

    So yeah, Miller and Hobart are the same, except where they're DIFFERENT... if you don't wanna spend a bit extra and don't think you'll notice the lack of fine adjustment, that's your choice- I made mine...Steve

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,273

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AKweldshop View Post
    Why is that??

    ITW owns Miller and Hobart....

    There mvp plugs interchange, gun parts interchange, mainly the only thing different is the color.

    Please chime in....

    ~John
    The first statement was "Miller owns Hobart". That's wrong. ITW owns both Hobart and Miller, and since Hobart also had a filler metals division, the government made ITW divest itself of anything Hobart over 250 amps. But MILLER DOES NOT OWN HOBART!!!!!!

    There are only a couple machines identical between Hobart and Miller.

    Hobart has its own engineering department, as does Miller. Hobart welders in each class, offered in common with Miller, weld considerably different (and in most cases, better).

    Yes, they do share some parts. They do NOT have common wiring diagrams.

    I'm in the business, my only income from the last 25 years or so has been thru my welding business. I have multiple engine drive welders running from 250 amps up to 600 amps. I had a need for a dedicated MIG machine, I chose the HH210MVP, have not regretted it since. In only two years, it has more than paid for itself, welding everything from 20 ga. up to 3/8". I just set it according to the door chart, run a test weld, make adjustments, and weld away. Almost seamless, idiot-proof. You can't set it wrong.

    I don't even care about the plastic drive roll assembly. Probably saved me a few bucks buying it, and if you saw it, you'd probably realize it is better than the aluminum one they replaced it with, for political reasons only. The rollers themselves are steel.
    Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    10

    Default Auto Set 180

    My good friend has a 180 and welds with .023 all the time. you have something
    wrong someplace.
    B.J.

  6. #16

    Default

    I think I have found my problem, a combination of my welding technique and this machine. It appears that I am trying to compensate for the initial wire speed (hot start) when I first pull the trigger by increasing the wire speed or reduce voltage for stitch welding. In a perfect world all joints would be uniformly prepped with the same gap start to finish. Unfortunately for me, especially out in the field, some joints may start closed and gap increases down the weld joint (keep in mind I am mostly working with thin gauge material) therefor the stitch weld becomes necessary. I have not had this issue with any other welder...ever. My DVI performs perfectly in this situation as does my old Lincoln 125.
    All that being said if I prep a piece of 3/16 plate the 180 works perfect with the hot start from start to finish. I don't think there is any way to disable this feature. So I will stick with my initial conclusion that I need a different machine that will function with the settings I want to use and not a machine that will "help" me weld. Unfortunately it seems all of the small portable machines incorporate this feature.
    TB 302
    Sync 250 DX
    MM 180 Auto
    Lincoln tombstone
    DVI-2
    Why do we drive on a parkway and park on a driveway

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    557

    Default

    My 180 does not have "hot start", I suspect none do. Sounds like you need to practice your mig skills.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    843

    Default

    The MM 180 doesn't have hot start. The 180 has a fixed level of "run-in". Miller is calling this "smooth-start". The MM 140 and MM 211 have this smooth-start feature too.

    Hobart's Handler 190 and Handler 210 MVP don't have this run-in feature. The arc starts on the Handler units are very responsive and smooth with out it. To date I've never experienced a poppy arc start from a Handler 187, 190, or 210.

    Lincoln's PowerMIG 180 doesn't have this run-in either. The PM 180 arc starts are as good as the Hobart Handlers.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    557

    Default

    I have never noticed any undesirable conditions under arc starting with my 180 or my friends 211. What's supposed to be the problem?

  10. #20

    Default

    Thanks for chiming in Danny, that was the term D.... at Miller tech support used and I couldn't remember what he called it so I used the term "hot start", my bad. I assume the smaller the wire the more pronounced the "run in" will be. Hence why it isn't so bad with .035 wire. I don't have any problems stitch welding with my DVI or my Lincoln 125, so I don't believe my mig welding skills need to be practiced since I have been pulling a trigger for almost fourty years now and have never experienced this issue. So now I am going to look for a machine with no wire run in.
    TB 302
    Sync 250 DX
    MM 180 Auto
    Lincoln tombstone
    DVI-2
    Why do we drive on a parkway and park on a driveway

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