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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    20

    Default Beginning TIG welder...need some guidance.

    Howdy Gang:

    Got the new Diversion 180 set up and running today. This is my first TIG machine but I've been MIG welding for years. I think I'm going to like it once I get the hang of it. Tell me what I'm doing wrong if you would:

    1) The poor tungsten. Looks like a well worn 6011 rod when I'm done with it. I ground a nice sharp point on it, leaning into the brand new grinding wheel in a vertical fashion as suggested and not at a 90 degree angle. The first couple of times I stuck it to the work...re-grind and start over. Now that I'm able to keep it off the work I notice the arc dances around the point and my nice sharp point winds up looking like a charred hot dog. The point is gone and what remains is mostly a ball but black and charred. It's a 3/32 grey band Miller tungsten and the gas pressure is set at 15 CFH since I'm welding inside. Brand new bottle of argon. Any clues?

    2) When welding, do I strike the arc and "push" it toward the crack leaving the molten puddle behind the advancing tungsten tip? From what I gather reading and watching Youtube vids, the torch is leaned back a few degrees and the arc pushed forward along the joint instead of welded "behind" and advancing tip.

    3) Filler material. Welding two pieces of 1/8" inch material together, oddly enough once I got the hang of it I got a nice puddle going and dimed out along the joint. The end result was a descent bead that was below the surface level of the two pieces of material but it looked much better without using filler rod than it did with filler rod. Is filler rod necessary to completely fill the joint or is it just as strong without rod as long as the puddles are melted together?

    4) When adding filler rod do I add it ahead of the advancing arc or can it be added in from the side at a 90 degree angle?

    Thanks in advance for helping me get started!

    Ron

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    At the epicenter of the Green Mountain Range in VT
    Posts
    264

    Default

    It sounds like you're dipping. Find a way to prop to steady your hand. With practice hold an arc as long as your tungsten is thick. For now a bit longer arc will serve you well. I had good results with a 180 and a gas lens. Stick out twice the diameter of your tungsten, hold as near perpendicular to the weld bead as you can and still see it. Keep the filler rod in line with the intended weld bead, and 90 degrees to the tungsten. Focus the arc at the leading edge of the puddle, moving back ever so slightly to avoid touching the tungsten with rod. The hot end of filler rod must stay in the plume of shielding gas when not being dipped. You'll consume a lot of electricity, gas, and metal before you can weld frustration free. Be patient.
    Go to the weldmonger store, get two TIG Fingers, it'll make a big difference how often you dip. When you do dip, snap off the tungsten a bit and regrind on a dedicated stone.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,054

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Willie B View Post
    It sounds like you're dipping. Find a way to prop to steady your hand. With practice hold an arc as long as your tungsten is thick. For now a bit longer arc will serve you well. I had good results with a 180 and a gas lens. Stick out twice the diameter of your tungsten, hold as near perpendicular to the weld bead as you can and still see it. Keep the filler rod in line with the intended weld bead, and 90 degrees to the tungsten. Focus the arc at the leading edge of the puddle, moving back ever so slightly to avoid touching the tungsten with rod. The hot end of filler rod must stay in the plume of shielding gas when not being dipped. You'll consume a lot of electricity, gas, and metal before you can weld frustration free. Be patient.
    Go to the weldmonger store, get two TIG Fingers, it'll make a big difference how often you dip. When you do dip, snap off the tungsten a bit and regrind on a dedicated stone.
    +1 on that

    Here is some TIG stuff that you may also find useful.

    TIG Guidelines

    http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/gtawbook.pdf


    Ten Common TIG Problems: A Visual Guide

    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...-guide-graphic


    The following chart addresses some of the common problems of TIG welding

    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...eshooting.html


    Diamond Ground Tungsten Guidebook

    http://www.diamondground.com/TungstenGuidebook2013.pdf
    .

    *******************************************
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,054

    Default

    You did not mention what type of metal you are welding..

    But...

    In case you have not found these yet...
    you might find these videos helpful on aluminum TIG..

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FadO0hqTaN0

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ay_oYg0LUo

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTZfDndPkl0

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpxzVq6YsoM

    much of the torch technique is applicable to steel as well...
    although machine settings will be different (DCEN rather than ACHF for Aluminum)
    Last edited by H80N; 04-24-2014 at 10:26 AM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Sweet, thanks for the suggestions. Be back shortly with results.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Montana, USA
    Posts
    232

    Default

    I hope by now you have discovered lanthanated 1.5% or 2.0%. It's what the Weldmonger and I use with inverter machines. Chuck that ceriated stuff... that's what came with my 165, but after trying all of the different combos available, I found that the lanthanated held a tip far better than the others.

  7. #7

    Default

    Be sure and use 2% tungsten and i always use the highest gas flow my reg will put out. Also make sure u r running dc negative. Sounds like u r running dc positive aince the tungsten is doing that.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,054

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by southlandrunner View Post
    i always use the highest gas flow my reg will put out..

    NOT CORRECT...

    too high an argon flowrate is as bad as too low...

    an excessively high gas flow will cause turbulence and pull in air to the weld gas envelope
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by H80N View Post
    NOT CORRECT...

    too high an argon flowrate is as bad as too low...

    an excessively high gas flow will cause turbulence and pull in air to the weld gas envelope
    That is true! Dint think bout that but i think 40 wld b fine. Also depends on the lense. There r so many variables its hard to answer without watching.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,054

    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by southlandrunner View Post
    That is true! Dint think bout that but i think 40 wld b fine. Also depends on the lense. There r so many variables its hard to answer without watching.

    Typical Argon flowrate is somewhere in the neighborhood of 13-20 Cubic Feet per Hour... depending on cup...

    Where the heck did you get 40..?? way too high for normal Argon...
    Last edited by H80N; 06-18-2014 at 07:40 AM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

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