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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Beaverton
    Posts
    5

    Default Diversion 165: Repair of Replace

    Some background.
    I'm new to the welding hobby/profession. I've done some mig projects for friends
    and have a fair amount of autobody rust repair to do on my Nissan Z cars.
    I picked up a broken 2009 Diversion 165 off of Craigslist for 350. It came with a bunch
    of consumables that seemed to make it worth the gamble. The owner had said that his buddy was welding some aluminum that was thicker than its capabilities when it made an audible pop, then stopped working. It powers up and the cooling fan comes on, but that's it.

    I'm an engineering tech and work around/am familiar with PCB's and other electro-mechanical assemblies as my day job so i figured i'd take a look at repairing the diversion myself. An audible pop usually leaves evidence of where it happened.

    After cracking it open, an initial inspection found no smoking gun. I pulled the spec sheets for the rectifiers and they measured ok.

    With no obvious signs of damage, i recently took it into my local service center and paid the 75.00 diagnostic charge. I got the quote back and it came in at ~1000 + 75.00 labor charge to replace both PCB's.

    parts are $1006.09 add one hour labor to this at 75.00.
    NOTE; THIS MACHINE HAS TWO LARGE COSTLY PC BOARDS
    WITH NO WAY TO CHECK THE ON-BOARD INT.CHIPS.
    THE OTHER PC BOARD COULD HAVE TAKEN A HIT AS WELL!!!
    I inquired if this would fix the problem or could there be something else damaged as well. I haven't got a reply on that question.

    Before taking it in, i did some research and found prices for both PCBs, one was ~550, the other was ~270. I was hoping the diagnostic might clue me in to what parts i needed, then i would purchase them and install them myself.

    With a 165 costing ~1375 on airgasoutlet, and me having a tax refund check for almost that amount, It would seem like just buying a new one would be a better move as it would at least have a warranty.

    I thought i'd ask here before doing that to see if anyone would know if there is more that i could troubleshoot before junking this welder.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,876

    Default

    $820.00 in parts alone and still no warranty- well yer the warranty
    Ed Conley
    http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
    MM252
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    You can call me Bacchus

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Beaverton
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I'm the warranty on a lot of things

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    At the epicenter of the Green Mountain Range in VT
    Posts
    307

    Default

    Agreed, but I wouldn't choose a Diversion 165.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Beaverton
    Posts
    5

    Default

    My budget is right around 1300 for a Tig. I was looking at an everlast but i stumbled into the broken diversion first.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    226

    Default

    I believe with parts and what you paid for used and don't even know if the parts are going to work I would sell and try to recoup some of the 350 and buy the new one.
    Unless I'm missing something.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    At the epicenter of the Green Mountain Range in VT
    Posts
    307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Z_Karma View Post
    My budget is right around 1300 for a Tig. I was looking at an everlast but i stumbled into the broken diversion first.
    I believe a budget of $1300 for a new TIG is a bad decision. If you have your heart set on new, save up longer, buy a permanent machine. If you are willing to gamble on a not warrantied machine consider a Syncrowave, or Dialarc HF set up for TIG. These machines can be bought pretty cheap and will do the job. If you don't need aluminum capability, get a Maxstar.

    The Diversion, if used for aluminum has a low duty cycle. =Aluminum conducts heat away from the weld so fast, regardless of thickness, the machine runs out of heat before the workpiece is hot enough. You can't adjust balance, or frequency.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Beaverton
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Well, i'm not looking to do much in the way of aluminum, it's mostly cosmetic autobody sheetmetal repair that i have to do. I've already maxed out my breaker box for my home for my compressor so an investment in a larger welder means an investment in upgrading to a bigger panel.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    At the epicenter of the Green Mountain Range in VT
    Posts
    307

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Z_Karma View Post
    Well, i'm not looking to do much in the way of aluminum, it's mostly cosmetic autobody sheetmetal repair that i have to do. I've already maxed out my breaker box for my home for my compressor so an investment in a larger welder means an investment in upgrading to a bigger panel.
    You'll end up doing it anyway, but steel isn't as demanding, duty cycle is less critical, balance control doesn't matter. Consider a 180, It gives a little more capacity, and comes with a foot control.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    La
    Posts
    257

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Willie B View Post
    You'll end up doing it anyway, but steel isn't as demanding, duty cycle is less critical, balance control doesn't matter. Consider a 180, It gives a little more capacity, and comes with a foot control.

    I have a 180, it's a good machine but just upgraded to a 200 DX. Look at my machine list.
    Ja


    Dynasty 200 DX
    Diversion 180 (FOR SALE)
    Millermatic 350P, XR-Aluma-Pro
    30A Spoolgun
    Lincoln Pro Mig 140
    Hypertherm Powermax 30
    14" Rage Evolution 360
    40 ton press brake
    Shop full of tools

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