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Thread: Spoolmate 30A

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    29

    Default

    I guess I can't read. The original post states damaged wires- not 10 pin connector. If that was implied I stand corrected.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    western mass
    Posts
    205

    Default

    ill guess here and assume hes trying to repair the cable somwhere in the middle of it with some sort of connector on each half. like maybe a weatherpack automotive type connector. if you go that route, they are on ebay and i think they go up to like 10 wire. personally i hate cobbled together crap and would replace the whole cable if need be. im sure it would look great with big connector somewhere in the middle. and as cruizer said and im sure is rolling on the floor laughing, i dont think their pushing 10- 20 amps through a cable thats about the next step up from telephone cord.
    Last edited by cayager; 03-10-2014 at 11:32 AM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,265

    Default

    Unfortunately... too many times people get confused by the Names... 15A & 30A on those model Spoolmatics and somehow assume that the "A" stands for AMPS...

    Which it DOES NOT..... and it goes downhill from there... then the threads get sidetracked into all kinds of nonsensical rabbit holes..

    what the heck could you possibly weld with a 30 Amp or 15 Amp spoolgun...??


    Maybe the OP could post a picture or two of the damage to his 30A to help clear the confusion
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cayager View Post
    ill guess here and assume hes trying to repair the cable somwhere in the middle of it with some sort of connector on each half. like maybe a weatherpack automotive type connector. if you go that route, they are on ebay and i think they go up to like 10 wire. personally i hate cobbled together crap and would replace the whole cable if need be. im sure it would look great with big connector somewhere in the middle. and as cruizer said and im sure is rolling on the floor laughing, i dont think their pushing 10- 20 amps through a cable thats about the next step up from telephone cord.


    Bingo that's what I'm looking to accomplish, I just want to repair the cable with a connecter. I don't want it to look like an abortion but I think a 5 pin connecter would look ok it sure is cheaper than buying the whole cable.

    By the way thank you all for your time and your advice I think I'll buy one of those water proof connecters off of Ebay.

    Mark

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,910

    Default

    Unsure where the 5 pin connector comes into play either, cause you've got 3 wires for controller, 2 for trigger, 2 for motor and one for sense, the sense isn't used often, so you'd have 7 not 5. Never the less for these breaks, I'd either solder and shrink tube the wires or use heat shrink butt connectors for 18-20 gage. Freaking simple....

  6. #16

    Default Spoolmate 30A

    I'm with cruiser. Why bulk it up more than it needs to be. Solder n shrink and done.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,265

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    I'd either solder and shrink tube the wires or use heat shrink butt connectors for 18-20 gage. Freaking simple....
    The only thing I would ad is to suggest that you cut the whole cable so that all the strands end up being the same length when you strip back to undamaged strands and solder, splice & shrink.. it is going to end up a bit shorter anyway..

    Long ones and short ones are kind of nasty to look at..
    Last edited by H80N; 03-10-2014 at 02:14 PM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    Unsure where the 5 pin connector comes into play either, cause you've got 3 wires for controller, 2 for trigger, 2 for motor and one for sense, the sense isn't used often, so you'd have 7 not 5. Never the less for these breaks, I'd either solder and shrink tube the wires or use heat shrink butt connectors for 18-20 gage. Freaking simple....

    Well its been longer than 5 minutes ago since the last time I counted them last but I thought I counted 5 but you probably are right. Well I have shrink tube and solderless connecters and I originally thought about doing it that way but I saw these waterproof connecters and thought that might be a better way to go. I'll have to recount the wires and fall back and regroup and see what direction I want to go thanks all.

    Mark

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    1,215

    Default

    Solder wires (no connectors) and heat shrink tube as cruiser and H80N have already suggested but when I do this I stagger the joints to avoid a large bulge in the cable and a larger diameter heat shrink tube over the whole mess to tidy it up.
    MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
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    Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Central CA
    Posts
    781

    Default 29a

    I agree with duane. I've done it both ways, and the staggered way is all most imperceptible.
    You might lose a foot of wire doing it that way.
    Just call it a 29A.
    Good Luck,
    Bob
    Millermatic 252 w/30A
    Big Blue Air Pak
    Ellis 3000 Band Saw
    Trailblazer 302 Air Pak w/ Wireless Remote
    8-RC
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    XMT 350 MPa w/S-74 MPa Plus
    Millermatic 211
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    Lincoln SA-200 Blue Tint Red Face '63
    2-Lincoln SA-200 Red Face '68
    SA-200 Black Face '59
    SA-200 Green Lite '84
    SA-200 Green Lite '80
    SA-200 Red Face '69
    SA-200 Red Face '66
    SA-200 Green Lite '81
    '70 Black Face Round Barrel

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