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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    382

    Default

    At that price (almost given to me)can you swap the top end?---Meltedmetal

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,447

    Default

    Thats true, as jugs pull off, why not r/r the jug, piston and head. Way simpler than pulling and replacing the engine, as long as the connecting rod is ok.

    Then you could use ANY P216 engine as a donor.
    Last edited by cruizer; 02-01-2014 at 12:24 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,447

    Default

    Going to guess and say that the previous owner, used moisture ridden dinosuar oil, in which moisture got into the hydraulic lifters, froze, and the lifters became solid, driving the valve/s down enough to make contact with the piston. This usually just bends the pushrods but can take out a valve pretty fast too. So your going too have to replace them from the donor.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    12

    Default swapping guts

    From what I have seen the block casting is one piece, so if any guts swapping were to be done it would have to be the bottom end, crank, rods, and pistons. But I would be curious to how much machine work would run??

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    1,162

    Default

    No detachable jugs on the Onan, no hydraulic lifters, flat head design so no chance of the valves hitting the pistons.

    Actually, Onan had at least 23 different cranks over the years. All the tapered cranks for Millers were a 1.50 taper (1.5"/foot) with the most common being the type "45BH". Miller changed to the type 45EE, 1" threaded crank in the mid 90's.

    The rare "45CB" and "45CE" cranks were also a 1.50 taper with slightly different length details and 7/16-14 center bolt threads rather than the 5/16-24 of the common 45BH cranks.

    My recommendation would be to:
    1) Overhaul the one you've got with new pistons, rings, valves, guides, etc.
    http://onanparts.com/index.php?main_...roducts_id=124 (or individual parts as needed)
    I believe TJ (onanparts.com) offers oversized seats that would require the services of a machine shop to install.

    2) Get the one that would pretty much be given to you and swap out the cranks. However, this requires tearing both units down completely at which time you can assess exactly what parts (rings, gaskets, etc.) that you'll need to put it back together. I've taken this path when swapping an earlier tapered crank out for the later threaded version.

    Either way, due to design, you'll have to pull the pistons to get the crank out so plan on rings for hard parts at the very least.
    MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
    Syncrowave 180 SD
    Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
    *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
    *HF-251D-1
    *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
    PakMaster 100XL
    Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    12

    Default info

    duaneb55 I am glad you chimed in.. LOL you seem to know what you are talking about when it comes to the Bobus 225g. So you are saying that the 45BH crank is the most common, is that in the Onan Powered Miller machines or common across the board? I must be honest I don't have a lot of money burning a hole in my pocket or I would spring for the 1300 rebuild kit. I am guessing that when it dropped the valve guide that is what bent my valve(s). Both guides were pretty tore up. I could set the guid back in place and wiggle it so it is WAY out.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    1,162

    Default

    That would be for the Miller Onan powered units. Lincoln and other equipment manufacturers used different configurations.
    MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
    Syncrowave 180 SD
    Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
    *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
    *HF-251D-1
    *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
    PakMaster 100XL
    Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Oswego IL
    Posts
    589

    Default fix the guides...

    If money is tight, pull the engine, have a machine shop fix the guides(they likely can get the guides, and valve seat cheaper then you can, rering the engine and go, unless the bore is trashed likely a set of rings and gaskets will be it. (if your realy hurting you can do only one cylinder). The trick with working on an onan is not breaking the exhaust manifold bolts and headbolts off.
    XMT 304
    Miller Spectrum 625
    Miller 30a spool gun
    S22a
    Miller Legend 302
    Lincoln LN25
    Ford f450 Maintainer Srv Truck

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    12

    Default parts & stuff

    Tryagn5 - I would be looking at a complete top end rebuild. I am one of these guides that while I have it tore all apart I might as well do the bottom end because I am already there. I will not have a cobbled together machine that just nickels and dimes me to death.

    Duaneb55 - Good thing I ain't running a Lincoln machine! LOL I know you have quite a bit of experience on the bobus 225g, all of the info you share with us here don't fall on deaf ears.

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