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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    4

    Default Syncrowave 200 tig problem

    I am not a professional welder but Ive been tig welding for years. I had a Maxstar 90 machine that I started with in the late 90's. Welded both carbon and stainless with pretty good results right from the start. That machine broke 2 years ago so last year I bought a Syncrowave 200 to replace it. Wanted to start welding aluminum. When I first got the machine I used it to stick weld and was pretty happy with it. Then I got busy with work and didnt get to use it for 8 months. So I finally get it all set up to tig weld and am now having all kinds of trouble. The problem I am having is the diameter of the arc is large and appears to be coming from high up on the tungsten. The arc doesnt come off the point of the tungsten, it seems to come from the top of the taper. The tungsten also deteriorates rapidly. So I have looked for solutions and tried changing amperage, changing flow rate, changing tungsten, sharpening angles, polarity (just to see what would happen), stick out, torch angle and none of these things seem to change the quality of the arc. The arc just isnt concentrated off the tip of the tungsten. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I dont know what else to try.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Ukiah, Ca
    Posts
    280

    Default

    AC or DC? What tungstens? Could be contaminated gas, or not enough.
    AutoArc 230 (MM 210)
    3035 spoolgun
    Spectrum 625
    Dialarc HF w/Coolmate 4

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,214

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by skl118 View Post
    I am not a professional welder but Ive been tig welding for years. I had a Maxstar 90 machine that I started with in the late 90's. Welded both carbon and stainless with pretty good results right from the start. That machine broke 2 years ago so last year I bought a Syncrowave 200 to replace it. Wanted to start welding aluminum. When I first got the machine I used it to stick weld and was pretty happy with it. Then I got busy with work and didnt get to use it for 8 months. So I finally get it all set up to tig weld and am now having all kinds of trouble. The problem I am having is the diameter of the arc is large and appears to be coming from high up on the tungsten. The arc doesnt come off the point of the tungsten, it seems to come from the top of the taper. The tungsten also deteriorates rapidly. So I have looked for solutions and tried changing amperage, changing flow rate, changing tungsten, sharpening angles, polarity (just to see what would happen), stick out, torch angle and none of these things seem to change the quality of the arc. The arc just isnt concentrated off the tip of the tungsten. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I dont know what else to try.
    More info and pics would give us a better idea as to what is going on.. and how to help you..

    also parameters and machine settings...

    meanwhile

    take a look here and see if anything looks familiar..

    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...-guide-graphic
    Last edited by H80N; 01-12-2014 at 12:11 PM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Thanks for the replies. I am running DCEN, on 1/8 inch carbon and stainless, I have tried 1/16 and 3/32 Ceriated and Thoriated tungsten, and I have varied the amps below, through, and above the ranges recommended in the owners manual for the size of tungsten (50-160 and 130-250). When I make these changes the arc never becomes a nice sharp arc off the tip of the tungsten.

    I looked at the page H80N suggested and the only weld that looks like mine is the sugaring on the backside of the stainless steel. I've welded this stainless in the past without sugaring and no back purge so I know that I should be able to do it. If I reduce amps as that page suggests then I don't get a good puddle.

    I will take some pictures hopefully tonight and post them. Thanks for the help.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,214

    Question

    You are not by any chance using "Bargain" chinese collets and holders off of fleabay.. are you??

    there have been a lot of instances of them restricting gas flow or creating turbulence that wreaks havoc on weld beads...

    poor quality control, soft copper, off dimension... these things can look ok to the eyeball but be bad news..

    Here is just one example..

    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...hlight=collets

    BTW...

    have also heard of some problems with imported tungstens that may be mismarked or of questionable purity or alloy......
    Last edited by H80N; 01-13-2014 at 10:09 AM.
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    1,215

    Default

    Check your shielding gas and make sure it's 100% argon.

    Did you just change bottles?
    MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
    Syncrowave 180 SD
    Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
    *Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
    *HF-251D-1
    *WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
    PakMaster 100XL
    Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    4

    Default

    The torch and all its parts are Weldcraft and came with the welder. It is a new bottle and its labeled argon. I can hear and feel gas coming out at 20 cfh but i wasnt sure if it was flowing enough so i cranked it up to 30 and 40 cfh and there was no change in the arc. I havent done a leak check to see if the gas is sucking air somewhere so tomorrow I am going to hit it with soapy water and check for bubbles.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,214

    Default

    a bad o-ring or cracked back cap will allow it to suck air and mess up your beads...

    17 series torch..??
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    4

    Default

    It was bad gas. I swapped out a borrowed bottle and ran the top bead in the attached picture. I noticed an immediate improvement. Then switched back to the bad bottle and ran the bottom bead without changing any other settings and it was right back to garbage. Thanks for the replies and the help.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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