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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    602

    Default

    Should be no problem. I would definitely run steel from the top link connection point down diagonally to help transfer some of the stress when lifting.You will not have a problem lifting it for sure. If you do, GO GREEN, John Deere Green that is. Just had to say, my 2440 ,750 , plus lawn tractor. I do have a '' M''
    and Super H .

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    10

    Default Crops are green tractors are red

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    Should be no problem. I would definitely run steel from the top link connection point down diagonally to help transfer some of the stress when lifting.You will not have a problem lifting it for sure. If you do, GO GREEN, John Deere Green that is. Just had to say, my 2440 ,750 , plus lawn tractor. I do have a '' M''
    and Super H .
    Thanks BD1! I will run the diagonal out of a piece of 3/8x4"angle. I was concerened about the 15/16" edge distance. But I'm thinking it won't be a problem. As for a big enough tractor. 58 hp at the draw bar and it has 250# wheel weights on the side. It should put me ove 6000 for the overall weight. There is a formula to calculate HP needed for a given implement size,weight,width. It's gonna be close depending on how deep I cut with the grader.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,285

    Default

    It looks like you have plenty of room, if you are worried just go to a bigger/thicker flatbar. Additional cost is marginal. Also easy enough to double up the metal where the lower hitch pins bolt to, just cut a square, drill a hole in the center, bolt the hitch pins in, and weld the sides.

    One thing I will stress, if you are using bolted in lower hitch pins (vs a clevis type connection), make sure you get them tight!!! Over the years, I see more failures due to loose hitch pins wobbling holes out than from inadequate metal.
    Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    602

    Default

    You should be good to go. Just look at the manufactured ones for more ideas. Pictures make it so much clearer . This internet stuff is amazing, saves weeks of traveling to go look at them .

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    10

    Default Clevis connection

    Quote Originally Posted by JSFAB View Post
    It looks like you have plenty of room, if you are worried just go to a bigger/thicker flatbar. Additional cost is marginal. Also easy enough to double up the metal where the lower hitch pins bolt to, just cut a square, drill a hole in the center, bolt the hitch pins in, and weld the sides.

    One thing I will stress, if you are using bolted in lower hitch pins (vs a clevis type connection), make sure you get them tight!!! Over the years, I see more failures due to loose hitch pins wobbling holes out than from inadequate metal.
    It will be a clevis type connection. I do like the idea of doubling up the material sort of a big square washer welded to the existing material. I used the 1/2" cuz that's what I had. I don't do near enough fabrication to justify another 21' stick in the garage. But four pieces of 1/2"x3"x12" flat bar welded100% to the unit on both sides at a length of 8" with a 4" overhang for hitch hook up should be ample with the use of those big ass washers.

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