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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    588

    Default

    Should be no problem. I would definitely run steel from the top link connection point down diagonally to help transfer some of the stress when lifting.You will not have a problem lifting it for sure. If you do, GO GREEN, John Deere Green that is. Just had to say, my 2440 ,750 , plus lawn tractor. I do have a '' M''
    and Super H .

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    6

    Default Crops are green tractors are red

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    Should be no problem. I would definitely run steel from the top link connection point down diagonally to help transfer some of the stress when lifting.You will not have a problem lifting it for sure. If you do, GO GREEN, John Deere Green that is. Just had to say, my 2440 ,750 , plus lawn tractor. I do have a '' M''
    and Super H .
    Thanks BD1! I will run the diagonal out of a piece of 3/8x4"angle. I was concerened about the 15/16" edge distance. But I'm thinking it won't be a problem. As for a big enough tractor. 58 hp at the draw bar and it has 250# wheel weights on the side. It should put me ove 6000 for the overall weight. There is a formula to calculate HP needed for a given implement size,weight,width. It's gonna be close depending on how deep I cut with the grader.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Lodi, CA
    Posts
    1,192

    Default

    It looks like you have plenty of room, if you are worried just go to a bigger/thicker flatbar. Additional cost is marginal. Also easy enough to double up the metal where the lower hitch pins bolt to, just cut a square, drill a hole in the center, bolt the hitch pins in, and weld the sides.

    One thing I will stress, if you are using bolted in lower hitch pins (vs a clevis type connection), make sure you get them tight!!! Over the years, I see more failures due to loose hitch pins wobbling holes out than from inadequate metal.
    Obviously, I'm just a hack-artist, you shouldn't be listening to anything I say .....

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    588

    Default

    You should be good to go. Just look at the manufactured ones for more ideas. Pictures make it so much clearer . This internet stuff is amazing, saves weeks of traveling to go look at them .

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    6

    Default Clevis connection

    Quote Originally Posted by JSFAB View Post
    It looks like you have plenty of room, if you are worried just go to a bigger/thicker flatbar. Additional cost is marginal. Also easy enough to double up the metal where the lower hitch pins bolt to, just cut a square, drill a hole in the center, bolt the hitch pins in, and weld the sides.

    One thing I will stress, if you are using bolted in lower hitch pins (vs a clevis type connection), make sure you get them tight!!! Over the years, I see more failures due to loose hitch pins wobbling holes out than from inadequate metal.
    It will be a clevis type connection. I do like the idea of doubling up the material sort of a big square washer welded to the existing material. I used the 1/2" cuz that's what I had. I don't do near enough fabrication to justify another 21' stick in the garage. But four pieces of 1/2"x3"x12" flat bar welded100% to the unit on both sides at a length of 8" with a 4" overhang for hitch hook up should be ample with the use of those big ass washers.

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