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  1. #21

    Default

    I too am on the fence with my new 211 (for home). I have always had real good welds with the Linc. SP175 I use at work. I too have been experiancing the same symptoms with my 211 you are experiancing. I have 3 differant size wire spools .23 (Inweld), .30 (Forney) & .35 (Forney). I use mostly the smaller .23 (ment to get .24 but grabed .23). I've been using 220v (as is my work welder). The Miller seems to be kinda stubborn if the metal isn't absolutely clean or it will sputter, pop, splatter and/or burn the wire back to the tip causing the feed to stop until it cools for a second then it will pop loose. I will get kinda ****ty looking weld beads on autobody panels when this happens, the Linc. seems more forgiving. Tonight I was in the garage welding somemore on some rocker patches and thought I would finish with the Miller plugged into 110v and like others have stated before it seemed to smooth out and lay a cleaner weld at least for the short time I used it on 110v, I should have tried it sooner to get a better feel for it on 110v. I don't know why there would be any differance in the way it welds using either 110v or 220v but it did seem to smooth out and lay a better weld on the thinner metal I was welding. Mabey someone could chime in and explain why the differance. You might want to try it on another voltage and see if it helps.

    Dave

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Like some have stated in other postings, the 211 like .030 wire. It also mentioned that Lincoln L -56 brand works real well and is more forgiving on dirty metal. I like the L 56 and it runs fine for me. My 211 is 6 months old and maybe Miller made some changes on the later models .
    For body work I read the ''Easy Grind '' works well. I never done it but read about it here.

    Easy grind
    https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/ei...DEF:OR:130TF44

    L- 56
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-E...0631/100341107

  3. #23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1 View Post
    Like some have stated in other postings, the 211 like .030 wire. It also mentioned that Lincoln L -56 brand works real well and is more forgiving on dirty metal. I like the L 56 and it runs fine for me. My 211 is 6 months old and maybe Miller made some changes on the later models .
    For body work I read the ''Easy Grind '' works well. I never done it but read about it here.

    Easy grind
    https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/ei...DEF:OR:130TF44

    L- 56
    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-E...0631/100341107

    Mine is about 3-4mo. old. I can't imagine that it would be that picky reguarding wire because the Linc. SP175 I use at work will burn it with no problems. But if using it in 110v dosen't resolve it then I just might have to try a 2lb spool of those wires, I just would hate to throw away 11lb spools of new clean wire and I wont give it to my employer because... well... we'll just leave it at that.
    Thank you for the heads up on wire.

    Dave

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    660

    Default

    How did the wire run that came with the 211 ??? My ran fine with it then I bought
    the L-56 when I used it up.
    where you located ?? you want me to mail you some to try ? PM me if you do.

  5. #25

    Default I think I found the problem

    I have been Mucking around with this welder giving it every chance I could before I kick it to the curb and go buy a Linc.. I have been having the same problem with not getting steady good welds and without having to stop and pick the wire from the tip when it would burn back and the barry would get stuck until it would cool and pop free. one time I had to replace the tip because it was burned into the tip. Anyhow I can't imagine this machine is that picky reguarding wire given the class level this welder is in. What I discovered is rather disapointing but hopefully the answer I and all the others have been having. If it is not the total answer then it surely has to be one of them and I hope it corrects my problem for good because the welds I would do look like total crap and made me feel like I had never welded before.

    miller1.jpg
    Here is my welder on my cart from my previous welder.

    miller2.jpg
    Here is all the differant wire I have bought trying to find one that it liked, 4 rolls total (1 roll I threw the box away). some in differant sizes.

    miller3.jpg
    This is what I found to be the problem, the spool adapter. I watched the spool rotate with the trigger pulled and it would slow then speed up in the same spot sometimes stopping while the drive rollers were trying to pull more wire. I tried to tighten the drive rolls till it was at it's max and still the samething. I even changed the drive roll to the small groove with bigger wire and still the samething. then I figured there had to be something wrong with the spool holder I adjusted the tention on the adapter till it was intirely too tight and still nothing I loosened it till it was ready to fall off and still nothing better. At my wits end with this welder I figured I would really take a look at WTF is it's problem. With the other posts from others having the same/simular problem I just had to find out for myself and post what I found.

    miller4.jpg
    This pic I took the adapter off. when I would rotate it with or without a roll on it I could feel it grab and scrape something. Humm, what could that be and why.

    Next up what I seen.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #26

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    miller5.jpg
    After I removed the adapter I looked and seen what looked like it was scrubbing against the back plate and had to figure out how to get the smaller adapter off. I took the other side of the welder cover off and looked and seen that it was only a long bolt that had a washer on it to hold the small adapter against the backing plate and figured that there must be a nut molded into the small adapter to keep it there (kind of a cheep design really but what ever). I seen 2 small holes next to the bolt head and figured that it was to set pins on the adapter to prevent it from turning while working o prevent it from loosening from the bolt.

    miller19.jpg
    In this pic you can see I can't even get the metal gauge dehind the adapter because it it completely flush/tight against the backing plate.

    miller7.jpg
    I used the jamnut trick to get the bolt loose from the adapter, there is no real room to do this from the other side because of the electronics all around and infront blocking easy access with a wrench so I went with this route. Rember you are working backwards when trying to get it loose, clockwise will loosen the nut counter clockwise will tighten it. Remove the nuts after you get it loose enough to turn with your fingers.

    miller9.jpg
    Once loose you hold the bolt and spin the adapter after it clears the pins.

    miller10.jpg
    Here you can see the pins that hold the adapter in place so it dosen't come loose from the bolt. Then what I seen became clear where the problem started to make since.

  7. #27

    Default

    miller11.jpg
    Here you can see even better the scrubbing that was preventing the spool from being smooth in its rotation hanging up and causing crappy looking welds and pitiful performance. So I looked into what the problem was and why and how to fix it. I figured it was the larger adapter rubbing as the smaller one does not rotate while welding. I put the smaller adapter into the larger one as it would be in the welder and this is what I found.

    miller13.jpg
    The smaller adapter goes too deep into the larger one allowing it to scrub the backing plate (just stupid). no matter what you do you will never correct this without doing something like what I did. No adjustments will get rid of it, it must be corrected or it will always scrub. But what to do....

    miller14.jpg
    Well I found a washer with the same size for the bolt and made sure it was thick enough to clear the differance between the 2 adapters but not too thick to render the pins useless (they must be engaged into the backing plate to prevent it from loosening).

    miller15.jpg
    I installed the washer as shown and put the smaller adapter on.

    miller17.jpg
    You can see it here and also when you get the small adapter on so far you will need to line the pins up with the holes and finish tightening using the jamnut trick, making sure it is tight bu not so tight you distort or damage anything like the small adapter.

  8. #28

    Default

    miller18.jpg
    Here you can see I now have a small space behind the small adapter because I can now get the metal guage behind it easly without too much slop. When I put the larger adapter on it just clears the backing plate without touching and spins freely. When I tighten the adjustment nut it goes from free wheeling without scrubbing and gets tighter as you tighten the nut and still no scrubbing. The 2 adapters touch (on the inside at the bolt hole) and as you tighten the nut they squeeze together causing resistance.

    I think what is needed is either the larger adapter needs to be trimmed down or the smaller one needs to be longer at the area of the pins to allow for a small space like the one I shown here. Either that or a spacer needs to be installed like the one I did, I would like one alittle larger then the one I used but I wasn't going to make one so a washer will have to do. The other choice would be to coin the backing plate around the bolt area to allow the smaller adapter to stand off the plate a smidge. Either way something has to be done because these are not cheep welders and they need to run like the Blue BadAss's they are.

    I have welded a couple (quick) small tests since and it now runs smooth and error free, no burn back or studder feeds (yet) time will tell if this corrects the problem but I think it just might.

    Now, Miller, as for my Cap and Shirt .........

    I hope those who have had this issue read this and gives it a try, it might be your problem too.

    Have a nice day.

    Dave

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Posts
    88

    Default

    Thank you for taking the time and effort to post your troubleshooting and results. The info and help on this forum is outstanding thanks to many people who care enough to help.

    I'm picking up a new MM211 this week, and will certainly look for this issue. Hope someone from Miller reads this thread; if the problem is common maybe they can provide the optimum spacer.

  10. #30

    Default

    No problem it is my pleasure. I reread my first sentence of my repair post and it reads as though I have gotten rid of it for a Linc. and that would not be true I have wrote that incorrectly. If this fix I came up with does not resolve it then I will be kicking it to the curb and get a Linc. but my repair has to be proven first , I really hope it corrects it because I don't want to get a Lincoln unless push comes to shove. I also hope Miller does the nessary correction and makes it right, you can't consider your self a top tier product with these over sites in manufacturing and design. It may have been overlooked in the testing part of the assembly which should be addressed. Either way I just wanted to share what I found and hopefully it will shed some light on the problems others are having and provide them with a fix.

    I will rewrite my first sentance.

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