Williams Low Buck makes a real nice economical notcher too. I have one of those I use for 1", 1 1/4", and 1 1/2" pipe, it works great too.
As he said there is a thousand ways to do this. Unless I have a bunch to do I just freehand the copes with either a band saw, grinder, or plasma.
One of the tricks I teach is make copes with a framing or even a speed square, no matter what the size of the tubing, same principle.
Place the square perpendicular to the tubing. Measure from the edge of the tubing to the leading edge of the square. On 2" ( 2 3/8" O.D.) for instance it would read about three quarter's of an inch.
Let's say you're doing a strut between two verticals. You would add 1 1/2" to your inside to inside measurement ( 3/4" + 3/4" =1 1/2") inside measurement is 30" so your cut measurement is 31 1/2".
If your tubing has a seam then it makes it simpler. What you want to do is measure in 3/4" in both ends on the same line. Then you want to freehand an arc where that 3/4" inch mark is in the middle. and the edges of the arc end up at the edges of the tubing.
After those are marked/cut then you roll the tubing over 180 degrees and do the same thing. You should have a perfect fit.
One thing you don't want if you like doing pretty work is a fit so tight that you have to hammer it in to place, or a fit where you are too short and use something to squeeze it together enough to weld it up. You will have exaggerated your mistake.
It doesn't matter if it's 2" pipe or 7" tubing. Wall thickness can't create issues, thin wall like Rigid pipe or sprinkler schedule ten material means you have to be more careful and have a wider arc to cut. Heavy wall like 1/2" will shorten the arc cut.
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Thread: Railing job.
11-08-2013, 08:00 PM #11Senior Member
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- Sep 2006