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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    3

    Default Miller Diversion 180 Lost power

    I bought a brand new Miller diversion 180 and brought it to school to test it out since they have some 220V plugs in the work shop. I welded some steel maybe a 16th thick very nice looking welds very easy to set up and easy to use. I then tried some thicker things and everything was good even up to 1/4 inch material at about 150 amps.
    I then tried to weld some aluminum (which i was horrible at) This stuff was maybe again 1/16 thick. I was welding at 70 amps.
    As I was welding I heard a popping noise from inside the machine and the 30 amp breaker blew. Strange. I reset the breaker and decided to just switch to steel. Everything seemed OK and it seemed like an isolated occurrence.
    I brought it home and showed my brother how to weld a bit. No problems. Total welding time on the machine so far was about an hour.
    I got a job from my neighbor to weld a steel railing, so I brought the machine back to school to use the 220V. I welded a bead 1.5 inches long at 150 amps and then I heard loud popping noises from the machine. So loud that people in the office came to see what was wrong. The breaker blew, I reset it but the machine was completely dead.
    It is currently being repaired.

    I am worried that I'll have problems down the line, and that my 2000 dollar investment is going to go up in smoke. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to what happened inside the machine or similar experiences.
    Why would a brand new machine fail in such a manner?

    James

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    La
    Posts
    244

    Default

    Wow, that is unfortunate. Ive never had any trouble with mine, knock on wood. Some of the guys here on the forum my have some advise or info. Post your serial number so they can better help you, Good luck.


    Dynasty 200 DX
    Diversion 180 (FOR SALE)
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    54

    Default

    That's too bad! But since it's brand new, it sounds like warranty. Check with where you bought it.
    Tim

    Many cordless tools...........
    2 cordless hammers
    2 cordless punches
    1 cordless chisel
    2 cordless screwdrivers, 1 + and 1 -
    and a cordless adjustable wrench that also doubles as a hammer.....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ja baudin View Post
    Wow, that is unfortunate. Ive never had any trouble with mine, knock on wood. Some of the guys here on the forum my have some advise or info. Post your serial number so they can better help you, Good luck.
    Have you used yours on both 110V and 220V?
    I saw a post about another machine that switches automatically with a relay but the relay can get stuck after long disuse.
    Serial Number MD380489J if that gives people more info.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    La
    Posts
    244

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by james.marks View Post
    Have you used yours on both 110V and 220V?
    I saw a post about another machine that switches automatically with a relay but the relay can get stuck after long disuse.
    Serial Number MD380489J if that gives people more info.

    Yes I've used it both on 110 and 220. No trouble.

    Ja


    Dynasty 200 DX
    Diversion 180 (FOR SALE)
    Millermatic 350P, XR-Aluma-Pro
    30A Spoolgun
    Lincoln Pro Mig 140
    Hypertherm Powermax 30
    14" Rage Evolution 360
    40 ton press brake
    Shop full of tools

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    176

    Default

    You have to keep in mind that the duty cycle on the diversion series machines is very low (20% at 150 amps). So, as you crank up your amps into the 150 range, you are very limited in how long you can run the machine before over heating it.
    Last edited by snoeproe; 11-01-2013 at 09:01 AM.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,167

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snoeproe View Post
    You have to keep in mind that the duty cycle on the diversion series machines is very low (20% at 150 amps). So, as you crank up your amps into the 150 range, you are very limited in how long you can run the machine before over heating it.
    True, it should throw the thermocoupler if the machine overheats, not throw the panel breaker. The Diversion is robust enough to recover from a shutdown. Some machines shutdown sooner than others depending on quality of input power, and may surprise an operator. When the characteristics present itself, the operator can tailor their technique to prevent exceeding duty cycle.

    So far I have not seen a dead Diversion. Hopefully when repaired it will be very dependable.
    Nothing welded, Nothing gained

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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I was definitely not exceeding the duty cycle, as the machine broke before I even got past 1.5 inches long bead- I'd say less than 30 sec of welding.

    The machine came back on friday and I spent 2 hours welding together the railing I was working on.

    No problems, no popping.

    The problem was a rectifier on the mains side. The technician showed me the pc1 board. One of the pins was completely fried on one of the rectifiers.

    I think it was an isolated incidence. Just like all electronics there is a percentile that companies try to exceed. But even if 99% of machines are good there is that 1 percent-which is the reason for warranties.

    Anyways if I have any problems in the future I'll be sure to post them here to let people know.

    On a side note the technician told me that you must ground the work because the high frequency starting voltages may find their way back to the internals. Thoughts?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,167

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by james.marks View Post
    I was definitely not exceeding the duty cycle, as the machine broke before I even got past 1.5 inches long bead- I'd say less than 30 sec of welding.

    The machine came back on friday and I spent 2 hours welding together the railing I was working on.

    No problems, no popping.

    The problem was a rectifier on the mains side. The technician showed me the pc1 board. One of the pins was completely fried on one of the rectifiers.

    I think it was an isolated incidence. Just like all electronics there is a percentile that companies try to exceed. But even if 99% of machines are good there is that 1 percent-which is the reason for warranties.

    Anyways if I have any problems in the future I'll be sure to post them here to let people know.

    On a side note the technician told me that you must ground the work because the high frequency starting voltages may find their way back to the internals. Thoughts?
    Ground the work to what? That sounds suspicious to me. The cabinet is shrouded with a metal cover. And the chassis goes to utility ground. What if you are running off a generator?

    Perhaps the technician was just trying to be helpful. The only ground my parts get is from the clamp.

    Good to hear you got it up and running.
    Nothing welded, Nothing gained

    Miller Dynasty700DX
    3 ea. Miller Dynasty350DX
    Miller Dynasty200DX
    ThermalArc 400 GTSW
    MillerMatic350P
    MillerMatic200 with spoolgun
    MKCobraMig260
    Lincoln SP-170T
    Linde UCC305 (sold 2011)
    Hypertherm 1250
    Hypertherm 800
    PlasmaCam CNC cutter
    Fadal Toolroom CNC Mill
    SiberHegner CNC Mill
    2 ea. Bridgeport
    LeBlond 15" Lathe
    Haberle 18" Cold Saw
    Doringer 14" Cold Saw
    6 foot x 12 foot Mojave granite

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