My fan took a crap in my dynasty 200 and the tech said it took out the "Q" board. Does anyone know the part # of that circuit board? I looked through the manual and didn't see any boards labeled "Q".
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Thread: Fried Dynasty 200
10-26-2013, 06:55 PM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
Fried Dynasty 200
10-26-2013, 08:07 PM #2
Seeing as the cooling fan is controlled by inverter control board PC1, I'd say that's the one in question.
I suspect the tech's reference to "Q" board is a take on the fact control transistors are typically named Q1, Q2, Q3, etc. of which there are a bunch (51 I think) on PC1.
A good electronics shop MAY be able to repair it given enough information however, some of these boards are multi-tiered and have traces on the front, back and sandwiched between a two piece laminated board making it difficult if not impossible to make a successful repair.
Last edited by duaneb55; 10-26-2013 at 08:14 PM.MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
Syncrowave 180 SD
Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
*Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
*WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110
10-29-2013, 05:50 PM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2007
- Northern California
They had some advantages in that they carried more components that a single layered board. On the negative side, they were nearly impossible to repair. Often, the technicians and engineers had to resort to digging holes in the boards to install haywires on the back side of the board. I always thought that it was comical to see a finished repair with wires running at odd angles on the board.
You mention that Miller uses 51 separate discrete transistors on one of their Dynasty boards. That's really odd in the age of integrated circuits. I would think that they could do some redesign there, considering the prices that they are getting.
For the record, I'd love to have a new Dynasty but considering that I'm still in hobby mode, it's not in the cards.Miller Syncrowave 200
10-31-2013, 05:41 PM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2009
I was in the electronics business for many years, and I will make a few comments about board repair.
If possible, the best solution is to cut all the leads to the part, and then unsolder the leads one at a time with a temperature controlled iron. If you do this right you should not damage the board. This is probably the safest solution for a less experienced operator, and does not require any special tools other than a good soldering iron
In the production shop, they used a heat gun with a small nozzle to heat the board and part while the operator used a tweezer, nudging or pulling the part until it was free, and then removing the part. They kept the heat gun constantly moving to avoid burning something. These were not ordinary heat guns, I have never seen that type of gun available for sale in any store.
The link below shows in general how to use a heat gun for that purpose, but the heat gun he uses has a large nozzle.
One could use solder wick to remove the excess solder from the pads or holes.
But one would probably want to practice this technique before using it on a $500 circuit board. ;-) Or better, take it to somebody who does this every day.