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Thread: Lincoln SAE 300

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Central CA
    Posts
    780

    Default Still Frozen

    This is my second time to write this post. I must have worded the other post incorrectly as the web master would not post it?

    I poured diesel in the cylinders and stuff red rags down the cylinders.
    I then set it on fire all the while trying to break it loose with 2 ft' long wrench.
    All I did was tighten the pulley bolt. I burned for over an hour.
    So I covered the pistons with PB Blaster penetrating oil.
    2 weeks later still nothing. In fact the oil is still on top of the pistons.
    The crankshaft is in a position so the 1 and 6 cylinders are down a about 2''.
    Should I try an air hammer on piece of shaft the same size as the piston?
    Again with the big wrench at the same time?
    Thanks again,
    Good Luck,
    Bob
    Millermatic 252 w/30A
    Big Blue Air Pak
    Ellis 3000 Band Saw
    Trailblazer 302 Air Pak w/ Wireless Remote
    8-RC
    Dynasty 200 DX
    XMT 350 MPa w/S-74 MPa Plus
    Millermatic 211
    Passport Plus
    Spectrum 625 X-TREME
    Lincoln SA-200 Blue Tint Red Face '63
    2-Lincoln SA-200 Red Face '68
    SA-200 Black Face '59
    SA-200 Green Lite '84
    SA-200 Green Lite '80
    SA-200 Red Face '69
    SA-200 Red Face '66
    SA-200 Green Lite '81
    Comming soon '70 Black Face Round Barrel

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,447

    Default

    Well then, you have to remove the oil pan, remove the connecting rod caps, and pound the pistons out. However, the pistons are now destroyed

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Coastal Maine, Coastal NC
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Before you go to the heavy demolition procedures, try this one other thing. My father-in-law was a master at getting rusted things loose. His formula was to use a good penetrating oil--one of the "Blasters" or "Kroils" will do and then combine that with a rather gentle tapping of the subject parts. Nothing severe, but enough to get them to vibrate. You apply the "elixir" and tap the top of each piston for a little while. You then go away for the rest of the day and come back the next day and "tap, tap, tap." Go away, come back and some more tap, tap, tap. Causing the parts to vibrate allows the "elixir" to work its way into the joints between the parts.

    Given enough patience and enough of the magic juice, you should be able to get parts to move again.

    Now this assumes that the reason the engine is stuck is due to corrosion and not due to some sort of thermal melt-down caused by running the engine out of oil or coolant. If it's seized because of that sort of stuff, it probably can't be made to turn.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Oswego IL
    Posts
    587

    Default try this...

    As someone who has rebuilt many engines, i can assure you that the rings even if you free the pistons are stuck completely to the pistons and will ruin this engine almost instantly if you manage to free it and fire it up. Have you tried the motor oil trick, with the propane torch? This has worked for me in the past. If the walls of the cylinder are completely rusted, use a flex hone first to knock off the rust then beat them out, also what model of contiental is this, most all of the older ones were wet sleeved engines.
    Kevin
    XMT 304
    Miller Spectrum 625
    Miller 30a spool gun
    S22a
    Miller Legend 302
    Lincoln LN25
    Ford f450 Maintainer Srv Truck

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Central CA
    Posts
    780

    Default 227

    Quote Originally Posted by Tryagn5 View Post
    As someone who has rebuilt many engines, i can assure you that the rings even if you free the pistons are stuck completely to the pistons and will ruin this engine almost instantly if you manage to free it and fire it up. Have you tried the motor oil trick, with the propane torch? This has worked for me in the past. If the walls of the cylinder are completely rusted, use a flex hone first to knock off the rust then beat them out, also what model of contiental is this, most all of the older ones were wet sleeved engines.
    Kevin
    I think it's a 227. It has the late model oil filler cap. Half of the head bolts broke off in the block.
    Ok so I heat the motor oil with a torch. Like the flame right on the oil. Will the oil flash and burn.
    I got a quote of 2800 to over haul it.
    I think it is just like a SA-200 except smaller bore and 2 more pistons. If it had the same size bore as a 200 the CID would 244.
    Thank you,
    Good Luck,
    Bob
    Millermatic 252 w/30A
    Big Blue Air Pak
    Ellis 3000 Band Saw
    Trailblazer 302 Air Pak w/ Wireless Remote
    8-RC
    Dynasty 200 DX
    XMT 350 MPa w/S-74 MPa Plus
    Millermatic 211
    Passport Plus
    Spectrum 625 X-TREME
    Lincoln SA-200 Blue Tint Red Face '63
    2-Lincoln SA-200 Red Face '68
    SA-200 Black Face '59
    SA-200 Green Lite '84
    SA-200 Green Lite '80
    SA-200 Red Face '69
    SA-200 Red Face '66
    SA-200 Green Lite '81
    Comming soon '70 Black Face Round Barrel

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    720

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tryagn5 View Post
    As someone who has rebuilt many engines, i can assure you that the rings even if you free the pistons are stuck completely to the pistons and will ruin this engine almost instantly if you manage to free it and fire it up. Have you tried the motor oil trick, with the propane torch? This has worked for me in the past. If the walls of the cylinder are completely rusted, use a flex hone first to knock off the rust then beat them out, also what model of contiental is this, most all of the older ones were wet sleeved engines.
    Kevin
    Kevin,
    I am not familiar with this technique. How is it done with a propane torch?
    Thanks,
    Nick

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Oswego IL
    Posts
    587

    Default heat the walls not the oil.

    Simply fill the cylinder, heat the walls of the cylinder, oil will smoke, no need to stick the flame on the oil, it will not burn right away, trick is to expand the cylinder walls, while keeping piston slightly cooler, the heated oil will wick its way into the rings and down the cylinder. If cylinder walls are heavily rusted i would run a bead hone to knock it off before turning the engine over, heavily rusted walls will likely stop at the first or second ring, very easy for a stuck ring to break when it hits the rust wall. Cylinder will need to be cleaned with soap and water. Must be clean or the abrasives from the bead home will ruin the cylinder walls fast. Once free work the hone to elimate the rust from the cylinder. If all else fails get a large wooden cylinder slightly smaller then the engine bore and smack each piston, normally at this point the engine needs rebuilding,
    Kevin
    XMT 304
    Miller Spectrum 625
    Miller 30a spool gun
    S22a
    Miller Legend 302
    Lincoln LN25
    Ford f450 Maintainer Srv Truck

  8. #18

    Default

    Bob, have you tried filling the cylinders with white vinegar and letting it sit a few days? Vinegar will eat rust pretty good.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Central CA
    Posts
    780

    Default

    I have not tried the white vinegar thing.
    I'll try that next.
    Thank you,
    Bob
    Millermatic 252 w/30A
    Big Blue Air Pak
    Ellis 3000 Band Saw
    Trailblazer 302 Air Pak w/ Wireless Remote
    8-RC
    Dynasty 200 DX
    XMT 350 MPa w/S-74 MPa Plus
    Millermatic 211
    Passport Plus
    Spectrum 625 X-TREME
    Lincoln SA-200 Blue Tint Red Face '63
    2-Lincoln SA-200 Red Face '68
    SA-200 Black Face '59
    SA-200 Green Lite '84
    SA-200 Green Lite '80
    SA-200 Red Face '69
    SA-200 Red Face '66
    SA-200 Green Lite '81
    Comming soon '70 Black Face Round Barrel

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,376

    Default

    If I was closer would give you an engine.

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