Theres a few things that could be going on here. Id say you are to cold rather then too hot. Alum turns dead soft at around 800° and will have a yellowish tint when u over heat it. If its real cloudy and white it needs more amps. The size of the piece u are welding also has alot to do with amp settings. Smaller pieces will heat up quick and have nowhere to go and continue to heat up and require less heat. I also recomend using a stainless steal brush to knock the oxide off before you weld. If you do not do this you will never get penatration because aluminum oxide melts at like 3 times the temp of aluminum.
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Thread: Aluminum penetration problem
09-22-2013, 06:24 PM #11
09-22-2013, 07:14 PM #12
And if u are practicing and new to aluminum i recommend messing pieces up on purpose. Yes i just said that lol. What i mean is crank your welder all the way up and put to much heat in it and pay attention to what it does. Then go super low and see the results of not enough. Experiment around. Push your filler in real hard and notice how it will droop through. Use very little and notice how it will tend to want to crack. You will begin to tell when your puddle is getting to hot and when it needs more. Im one that pulses the pedal alot but i do not do it to get the stack of dimes look. I do it for heat control. You can get that look by not pulsing at all by munipulating the puddle with your torch. Properly welded aluminum should be shiny. Sometimes depending on brand 4043 will come out a little gritty looking. I always stick with alcotec filler because ive always had excellent results with it. Ive never used a diversion and dont know what they offer for settings but if you can adjust your positive and negative amps mess with those. Remeber neg gives penetration and positive gives cleaning. I usually never go below 70% on my balance and have my htz at 220 or so on inverters.
09-23-2013, 11:02 AM #13
5356 is a better filler for 5000 series sheet. 4043 is dependant on base metal dilution for strength and 5000 series has little alloys for strength. 5000 series sheet is a strain hardened material as opposed to 6000 series which has strengthening alloys for heat treating and such.
Does not matter which tungsten you use as your machine does not have the killing power others have. Actually 2% thoriated is a good all around for your machine. Grind it to a point and let it round over some.
Beveling for penetration is always a good idea if needed. Then there is helium.
Good luck.Nothing welded, Nothing gained
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09-23-2013, 07:51 PM #14Junior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2013
Ya I wish I could adjust the ac balance but you can't on diversions. I grind my tungsten to a point and then flatten it off a little . It doesn't really ball though. Kinda lots of small balls on the end. Help?
Also when you brush it with stainless, do you do that last? Or acetone last? Like right before you weld.
thanks for all the help guys, I'm having fun.
09-23-2013, 08:59 PM #15Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Montana, USA
If you must try for a balled tip, try popping the arc with the machine switch set on steel before changing to aluminum.
Photos might help us.
09-24-2013, 09:21 AM #16
Thats how 2% is. It will not ball up on its own. You can put it on reverse(dc positive) for a sec to make a ball or use pure tungsten if you want it to ball up. The tungsten is not your problem though. I prefer 2% over pure because it resists contamination way better. Use the ss brush right before u weld. The acetone just removes dirt grease oil etc. The ss brush removes oxides. Clean first then brush. When u brush go one direction so u dont just smear contaminates in.