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Thread: Crankshaft

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
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    570

    Default Crankshaft

    Have a guy who needs a key welded in the slot of a crankshaft for the pully.

    He said he used JB weld to hold it in place for ten years but it finally broke loose and chipped out the side of the keyway slot a little. Guess it was chipped somewhat before the JB.

    Its a last ditch effort so I think I'll go Tig it in and fill the chipped area. He wants the key permanent in its slot.


    This is a first, and my first thought was warping but I think I can keep the heat down by running a little hot and quick and it will do ok.

    Yea, it will be in the car under the hood. No foot peddle just set the amps and lift arc. I just don't how hardened the steel will be or what the best filler is. I'm thinking just some ER 70 S in 1/16.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,050

    Question Cast iron crank?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hardrock40 View Post
    Have a guy who needs a key welded in the slot of a crankshaft for the pully.

    He said he used JB weld to hold it in place for ten years but it finally broke loose and chipped out the side of the keyway slot a little. Guess it was chipped somewhat before the JB.

    Its a last ditch effort so I think I'll go Tig it in and fill the chipped area. He wants the key permanent in its slot.


    This is a first, and my first thought was warping but I think I can keep the heat down by running a little hot and quick and it will do ok.

    Yea, it will be in the car under the hood. No foot peddle just set the amps and lift arc. I just don't how hardened the steel will be or what the best filler is. I'm thinking just some ER 70 S in 1/16.
    What type of car? do you know if the crank is steel or cast iron??

    if iron it may be extremely dificult to weld... especially in car...
    You might be able to fill with Everdur rather than ER70s-X
    But still very difficult in the car..

    LOCTITE makes a product designed for just this stuation..

    This is a common problem on the Mazda Miata and here is a good thread on the fix..
    (Far superior to JB Weld & a PERMANENT Repair)

    Part 1

    http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/crank/loctite_3.htm

    Part 2

    http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank2.html

    You might consider it...
    Last edited by H80N; 09-14-2013 at 06:18 AM.
    .

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by H80N View Post
    What type of car? do you know if the crank is steel or cast iron??

    if iron it may be extremely dificult to weld... especially in car...
    You might be able to fill with Everdur rather than ER70s-X
    But still very difficult in the car..

    LOCTITE makes a product designed for just this stuation..

    This is a common problem on the Mazda Miata and here is a good thread on the fix..
    (Far superior to JB Weld & a PERMANENT Repair)

    Part 1

    http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/crank/loctite_3.htm

    Part 2

    http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank2.html

    You might consider it...
    I will get his e-mail address and pass these links on to him.

    I think Mazda was mentioned a couple weeks ago when I repaired a chip on a pulley. Plus there was a broken bolt in the crank that was described exactly like the shaft in the links.

    Looking at the pics,, it will a tough place to weld.

    Thanks for the info.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    570

    Default

    Well its done.

    I used the DX200 way down towards the bottom of the engine and couldn't see hardly anything.

    He clamped the key where he wanted it and I used the foot pedal with machine on 100 amps. I also used .030 mig wire.

    Didn't completely fill the worn area but the key is in good and tight. May need a little filling.

    Just waiting to see if it works out for him when he puts in back together. Thanks for the help.

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