Miller Electric

Welding Discussion Forums

Home » Resources » Communities » Welding Discussion Forums
 
Miller Welding Discussion Forums - Powered by vBulletin

Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    1

    Default Tig welding a forged steel automotive crankshaft

    I need a 9/16" dia threaded grade 8 bolt welded into the end of a 1" dia forged steel crankshaft. The bolt is lighty pressed into the shaft. Not certain that the mobile welding company that I contacted actually has the expertise to do the job correctly and I would like to avoid a catastrophic failure down the road . His first attempt broke when I attempted to torque the nut onto the bolt. A crankshaft seal is about three inches away from the weld area so heat is an issue, but I feel I can keep the heat away from the seal. Looking for guidance as to type of rod/wire and pre/post heat instructions. Thank you in advance for any assistance or advice. Bill Robertson.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,949

    Cool

    Why? Just wondering...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Western, NY
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Why ? Is a vry good question and gr 8 bolts do not lend themselves well to welding.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,570

    Question Questions for Clarity

    Quote Originally Posted by ftlrobby View Post
    I need a 9/16" dia threaded grade 8 bolt welded into the end of a 1" dia forged steel crankshaft. The bolt is lighty pressed into the shaft. Not certain that the mobile welding company that I contacted actually has the expertise to do the job correctly and I would like to avoid a catastrophic failure down the road . His first attempt broke when I attempted to torque the nut onto the bolt. A crankshaft seal is about three inches away from the weld area so heat is an issue, but I feel I can keep the heat away from the seal. Looking for guidance as to type of rod/wire and pre/post heat instructions. Thank you in advance for any assistance or advice. Bill Robertson.
    if I understand this correctly... you are welding this bolt to the crank while the crank is still in the engine?? and possibly still in the car...
    not a good idea...
    the bolt will be grade ZERO once welded...
    and there is no way to restore the heat treat if still in the engine...

    Is this by any chance on a Mazda MIATA engine...??
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam w/ PowerMax-1000

  5. #5

    Default

    the short version- when welding anything heat treated you destroy the heat treat, so it will make no difference if it's grade 8, 5, 3 or 0, it will be the same after welding.

    I'm with everyone else, what the heck are you doing/what are you working on?
    Mark
    (aka: Silverback, WS6 TA, JYDog, 83 Crossfire TA, mpikas, mmp...)
    Synchrowave 180 SD | MillerMatic 211MVP + Spoolmate | Hobart Handler 135 | Everlast Power Plasma 50
    1960 Bridgeport J-head | Grizzly 10x22 | HF bandsaw | Rigid 4.5” angle grinder (+2 cheapie HF ones)
    BFH

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Actually, with low heat and the thermal mass of the crank, it could conceivably quench harden a part of the bolt at the HAZ and make it brittle. In any event, the heat treatment is messed up.
    Miller stuff:
    Dialarc 250 (1974)
    Syncrowave 250 (1992)
    Spot welder (Dayton badged)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cave Creek Az
    Posts
    1,051

    Default

    Looks like a 1 post wonder!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    9

    Default mm-35 feed problem

    yes, my finger got stuck on the key board.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Tampa
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hot ticket View Post
    yes, my finger got stuck on the key board.
    What are you talking about? This has nothing to do with MM35
    Stainless process piping - welder & fitter

    Miller Dynasty 280DX
    Jet band saw
    Dewalt chop saw
    Assorted IR air tools and Metabos

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Warning: Function split() is deprecated in /mnt/stor3-wc1-dfw1/357822/357839/www.millerwelds.com/web/content/lib/footer.inc.php on line 73

Welding Projects

Special Offers: See the latest Miller deals and promotions.