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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    299

    Default

    Seems like this tread is sort of wandering between cold cut and dry cut saws....hmmmm... Anyway, my $.02, since abrasive saws fall into one of those categories is that I would NEVER have one in my own shop. The abrasive saws make a huge mess, cover everything in the shop with grit and make you blow black boogers for a while after making a few cuts. Maybe I'd use one outside on a work site where nothing of mine is going to get all covered with crap and there may be a little breeze blowing to keep me from having to breathe the crap the saw throws.(besides the breeze makes the MIG and/or TIG guys swear and I just love the sound of swearing in the morning!!) Needless to say, my shop has only two saws and they are both "band" types...one dry and one wet, but the wet one is OFTEN used dry (good blade!) since I don't really like having saw drool all over the workpiece or my hands and the floor, either!!

    Also, if cutting mostly ferrous and not cutting aluminum or such, a guy COULD just get really good with an A/O cutting torch. Kind of hard to be VERY accurate with, but I have seen guys that can make cuts that look like they were made with a CNC Plasma rig!!
    Don J
    Reno, NV

    Never pick a fight with an old guy. Old guys are too smart to fight and get hurt. They'll just kill you and get it over with.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    kannapolis,nc
    Posts
    32

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tackit View Post
    For just a little more money you get a lot more saw

    http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/band-saw-bs-128m
    a bit much to carry to the jobsite though

  3. #13

    Default Thanks

    Thanks for the info. The Milwaukee seems pretty solid, but they have been discontinued. I think their abrasive saws have been discontinued also. They seem to make one of the best saws so they decided to quit making it. Sounds like a good idea. There is still a few out there though on the web. Anyway - I seen the Makita - which seems to have the best fence and clamping system so I'll probably get that. 500.00 and it's only a 12", but I guess it'll do. Dewalt would probably be good, but I have their abrasive saw and the fence is time consuming when cutting lots of angles. Thanks again:

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Little Rock
    Posts
    41

    Default dry cut saw-- also called cold cut saw Question

    Just checked. A number of retailers studs show the Milwaukee 6120 available.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    kannapolis,nc
    Posts
    32

    Default

    I have seen nothing about the Milwaukee being discontinued. Would you mind showing your source of information?

  6. #16

    Default sure

    I went to three businesses today that sell Milwaukee products. Two of them had no idea either until they got on their computer and found they couldn't order one. The third business said he knew about it and said it happened about 6 months ago. Said something about them getting out of the metal cutting saws. That's what I found out just today. If you still don't believe me I guess you can go to a Milwaukee dealer and ask them..

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cave Creek Az
    Posts
    1,007

    Default

    Milwaukee still shows it in their line up. http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/corded/6190-20

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    15

    Default

    The steelmax has a junk vise on it already been thru the THIRD one , our dealer sent two replacements and the didnt last no time then sent a second saw with the same problem. Run from them. They also didnt do anything about the two ruined New blades , if you have any movement while cutting your going to ruin the blade.
    If you can find the Milwakee , i have heard good comments on them.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    148

    Default Dry Cut Metal Cutting Saws

    We've been using the Milwaukee dry cut saws for several years now without any problems other than blade replacement. We have both the miter type saw and the 8" hand held circular saws. We found that blade life is considerably longer if the stock is clamped properly and in the case of the hand held saw, a guide is clamped to the stock for the saw to ride against. Keeping the blade from binding in the cut saves the teeth on the blade. One great benefit of using dry cut saws over plasma, torches, or abrasive saws is that the material can be picked up and used immediately even with bare hands because it doesn't heat up significantly during the cut. The finished cut is relatively smooth so very little clean-up is required. A file or light grinding to remove the bur is usually all that is necessary.

    The miter saw was a bit hard to move around both in the shop and to the jobsite, and supporting the stock was difficult when cutting miters because either the position of the stock or the angle of the saw needed to change every time the angle of cut needed to change. I bought a Delta miter saw/planer stand similar to a hand when folded for easy transport. It can sit upright like a hand truck with the saw still attached when being stored, can be wheeled to the worksite like a hand truck, and can be opened to workbench height very easily. It also loads and unloads easily from truck bed. I added an aluminum top, a 12" Lazy Susan type bearing, and a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate to hold the Milwaukee saw to the top of this stand. Now we have a saw that stores and transports very easily, can be set up and ready to cut almost instantly, and has pull-out rollers to help support the stock. When cutting miters, only the saw rotates to allow easy clamping of the stock at any angle. The Lazy Susan bearing under the saw allows the saw to easily rotate to the stock position so you don't need to keep moving the stock position for each different angle cut. The Delta stand is a bit light for this purpose, but it has held up very well for the past several years. Most of our cuts are on bar, strip, and angle stock up to about 2" X 2" and the biggest problem so far has been keeping the outboard roller height adjustments from slipping under the heavier stock weights. We generally use additional separate stock supports if the stock weight will be over 60 lbs or longer than about 10'.

    Charley
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    2 O/A torch sets
    DeWalt 18 volt 1/2" Driver/Drill
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    Milwaukee 8" Dry Cut Saw
    Milwaukee 14" Dry Cut Chop Saw / Delta Stand
    Milwaukee 9" Grinder
    2 Milwaukee 4 1/2" Grinders
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    Too many hand tools

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
    Posts
    782

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
    We've been using the Milwaukee dry cut saws for several years now without any problems other than blade replacement. We have both the miter type saw and the 8" hand held circular saws. We found that blade life is considerably longer if the stock is clamped properly and in the case of the hand held saw, a guide is clamped to the stock for the saw to ride against. Keeping the blade from binding in the cut saves the teeth on the blade. One great benefit of using dry cut saws over plasma, torches, or abrasive saws is that the material can be picked up and used immediately even with bare hands because it doesn't heat up significantly during the cut. The finished cut is relatively smooth so very little clean-up is required. A file or light grinding to remove the bur is usually all that is necessary.

    The miter saw was a bit hard to move around both in the shop and to the jobsite, and supporting the stock was difficult when cutting miters because either the position of the stock or the angle of the saw needed to change every time the angle of cut needed to change. I bought a Delta miter saw/planer stand similar to a hand when folded for easy transport. It can sit upright like a hand truck with the saw still attached when being stored, can be wheeled to the worksite like a hand truck, and can be opened to workbench height very easily. It also loads and unloads easily from truck bed. I added an aluminum top, a 12" Lazy Susan type bearing, and a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate to hold the Milwaukee saw to the top of this stand. Now we have a saw that stores and transports very easily, can be set up and ready to cut almost instantly, and has pull-out rollers to help support the stock. When cutting miters, only the saw rotates to allow easy clamping of the stock at any angle. The Lazy Susan bearing under the saw allows the saw to easily rotate to the stock position so you don't need to keep moving the stock position for each different angle cut. The Delta stand is a bit light for this purpose, but it has held up very well for the past several years. Most of our cuts are on bar, strip, and angle stock up to about 2" X 2" and the biggest problem so far has been keeping the outboard roller height adjustments from slipping under the heavier stock weights. We generally use additional separate stock supports if the stock weight will be over 60 lbs or longer than about 10'.

    Charley
    That's a very slick set up Charley.

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