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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    812

    Default

    If you're worried about cracking, use epoxy. Building code here only accepts that for load bearing walls if the anchors aren't placed before the pour.
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    557

    Default

    Nocheapgas, that's already been discussed in his previous thread, wedge anchor is his best bet.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
    Posts
    782

    Default

    The picture shows how I used the crack joint to slip some 3/8 plates down into to the concrete 2 1/2" to keep the table from moving when cranking on something in the vise. The plates held the weight of the generator but the opposite side of the table lifted up about six inches.




    Table with the crane

    Last edited by tackit; 05-16-2013 at 10:43 PM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    557

    Default

    Are you going to use anchors in addition to those? Or is it stable enough now?
    Last edited by Cgotto6; 05-16-2013 at 10:48 PM.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
    Posts
    782

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cgotto6 View Post
    Are you going to use anchors in addition to those? Or is it stable enough now?
    Mr. C I'm going to put an anchor on each leg opposite the crane. If that isn't enough then I'll put two on the crane side. The table only came up about 6" lifting the generator on the table so I'm thinking two on the far side will be enough. The generator and the Snapper's deck will be about the heaviest things I lift on the table.
    Last edited by tackit; 05-16-2013 at 11:41 PM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    East Tenn
    Posts
    148

    Default Calling meltedmetal and Cgotto6

    We build pre-fab metal buildings and have been using redheads/hilti's/duo-fast anchors for the last 4-5 years. We used to lay out all the anchor bolts before the concrete and install them while the Crete was curing. Now it's just drill and go. Only two problems we have are putting them in when the Crete is still green or use the wrong size bit. Actually just used some yesterday attaching a deck to a concrete pad. Works like a charm. Hope all goes well with your installation.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
    Posts
    782

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Precision View Post
    We build pre-fab metal buildings and have been using redheads/hilti's/duo-fast anchors for the last 4-5 years. We used to lay out all the anchor bolts before the concrete and install them while the Crete was curing. Now it's just drill and go. Only two problems we have are putting them in when the Crete is still green or use the wrong size bit. Actually just used some yesterday attaching a deck to a concrete pad. Works like a charm. Hope all goes well with your installation.
    Very nice of you to wish me good luck Precision, thanks

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Sweetwater, TX
    Posts
    201

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Precision View Post
    Only two problems we have are putting them in when the Crete is still green or use the wrong size bit.
    I've been reading this thread from time to time since I have to install some anchors for something.

    What is your definition of when the concrete is still green? Like days old, weeks, months, a few years?

    The shop building I bought has a slab about a year old and it already has a LONG crack running down the middle. It only has a 3 1/2" slab probably. Guess that is the quality of work people do around here though. I would be blazing hot at the company who poured it if they had poured it for me.
    Last edited by clint738; 05-17-2013 at 12:33 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    557

    Default

    Green to me is within a month or so, but you can really do anything with it within 3-5 days. A year is more than adequate time for anything.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    East Tenn
    Posts
    148

    Default Calling meltedmetal and Cgotto6

    Concrete actually takes many years to"fully"dry as it sucks moisture up from the ground. That's why you have to vapor barrier if you put hardwood floor or something like that on top of concrete. "Green" is within 24-48 hrs to 5 days. Depends if you add accelerants to it for a faster cure. We mainly use a fiberglass reinforced crete at 6" with rebar and wire reinforcements. A lot of guys like the .22 Hilti's and duo fasts that shoot the fastener into the floor. I myself do not. It only takes a min orso extra and if the shot doesn't hold you end up using a tapcon or red head anyway so why not use em from the start. "If it ain't broke".

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