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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Western Pa.
    Posts
    212

    Default welding warped my sheet,,,how to straighten

    Yep. MMW your dead on. Don't cut & weld, just make it worse.
    I started welding in the 70's, was a body man painter many years. Also a Blacksmith, farrier (did that full time almost 10-years) still do part time but hv my own welding fab shop now. Like most guys I still warp things, so don't feel bad.
    But all things considered one of the hardest things for me to learn & understand is straightening, ie using heat which is the best way if u can master it. Really it's the art of shrinkage, or contraction which is what bit u in the 1st place. I don't hv time to explain now and don't hv link with me which explains. But if u do a search you'll find it. Read read read then try it. Takes a lot of trial & error (I still struggle with it) but all things considered its the best way to straighten metal. There are Co's that straighten massive beams as under bridges etc. using heat.
    It's truly a art worth mastering ie a lost art in this generation. The old timers were masters but most of them are gone. :-(
    Greg

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    ny
    Posts
    72

    Default


    that was while I was fitting the plug.





    the last of the welding...


    then lastly the panels view....I can measure thw width of the top of the transom..i had measured that before trying to calculate the size and shape of my outboard bracket...so I have that # to compare what it is now... that will tell me if the gunnels came inward...if not, then the metal expanded and it is bowing because the sides are fixed.



    that measure will say a lot about what happened.
    frankly I am thinking if the sides pulled in, it will be an easier fix.... I cant imagine I imparted that much heat that it reached the sides of the hull!!! I think the grinder created as much heat or more for a broad area, than the welding...

    bob

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    northern NJ
    Posts
    1,820

    Default

    It's not that the heat reached the sides & they shrunk. It's that the lower part of the back plate shrunk therefor pulling in the sides which caused the top of the back plate to wrinkle because it did not shrink like the lower part. Just my guess. When you measure across the top you will know.

    If it did pull in then cut a brace or jack it open to push the sides apart to where they should be. Then weld on the other plates that you have laid out in marker. This should take care of most of it. Maybe even make the brace slightly big.

    When you weld, after it cools there is always some shrinkage, never expansion.
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
    Posts
    779

    Default

    The heat wouldn't have to reach the sides of the hull to pull the sides in, all it would have to do is pull from the weld making there be to much metal at the top causing it to buckle. The metal has to do something if there is to much of it. I don't think the bow is a heat warp, I think it's a buckle caused by to much metal at the top caused when the bottom portion of the transom shrunk after the weld cooled.

    I don't see why it couldn't be cut and welded, they repair aluminum boats all the time.

    I would appreciate someone explaining to me in laymen terms why welding wouldn't work, albeit the weld is at a stress point if an outboard motor is going to replace the outdrive. Thanks for any insight on this, I'm always looking to learn from the pros here.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    ny
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tackit View Post
    The heat wouldn't have to reach the sides of the hull to pull the sides in, all it would have to do is pull from the weld making there be to much metal at the top causing it to buckle. The metal has to do something if there is to much of it. I don't think the bow is a heat warp, I think it's a buckle caused by to much metal at the top caused when the bottom portion of the transom shrunk after the weld cooled.

    I don't see why it couldn't be cut and welded, they repair aluminum boats all the time.

    I would appreciate someone explaining to me in laymen terms why welding wouldn't work, albeit the weld is at a stress point if an outboard motor is going to replace the outdrive. Thanks for any insight on this, I'm always looking to learn from the pros here.
    there is no structural support needed on that sheet. bracing inside and an outboard bracket will be BOLTED to the outside, making a sandwich of that sheet.. bracing inside will go the floor ribs as well as side angle bracing to fasten the transom sheet to the sides of the boat... the sheet on the transom just need to hold back water, and go along for the ride mostly. The motor will be mounted to the bracket about 27" away from the sheet that bent.

    bob

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    ny
    Posts
    72

    Default

    I read up a little on the TINMANs site about bending aluminum and straightening... and it helped a lot.... I am well on my way to correcting this mess I made... I have some tight waves down near my welding areas still to address, and I need longer clamps to hold my backing plate in place

    I clamped the wave down to this , onto a 1" thick plate of aluminum. as support to hammer against




    when don't last night it looked like this:



    the top didn't get shorter or wider, when the sheet bowed from welding heat.. so I couldn't spread the gunnels to straighten this issue!!


    I had to shrink the sheet back!

    bob

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
    Posts
    779

    Default

    Looks like you have most of the bow out. Not the first time I've been wrong on the internet, but at least I learn from being an idiot. Good luck with the rest of job.

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