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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    13

    Question Help wiring shop for welder

    I am in the process of wiring my garage/workshop (new construction) and would like to know what is recommended for a Millermatic 210 welder.

    I began by using a 50amp breaker in my electrical box and ran 6-3 wire to my outlet box. Was that right?

    Also, what style outlet should I terminate this circuit with?
    (Guy at building supply store thought it would be a 50amp outlet, but wasn't sure...)

    Any other tips or thoughts I missed?

    Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default

    Saxart,

    The breaker and the wire sounds right. The receptacle is a NEMA Type 6-50R and the plug is a NEMA Type 6-50P.

    You can go to http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1325h_mil.pdf to download the owner's manual for that machine. It has a simple electrical drawing that pretty much explains what you need.

    Is that what you needed to know?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Wow, that was fast! Thanks.

    Yep, that was the information I needed. I actually looked through that downloadable manual (what a neat feature of this site!) and must have glossed right over it.

    It looks like a 50Amp plug and recepticle that will accept 6 gauge wire is what I need.

    Can't wait to get my new welder so I can log in with more questions!...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Atco, NJ
    Posts
    11

    Default

    I hope all went well with your wiring project. I am an electrician and just purchased a 210. I have been thinking about this also. My thoughts are that I want to be able to move my millermatic around my shop without restrictions. My thoughts were to run my line to a junction box mounted either flush in the wall or surface mounted. I would then take a cord called an SJ cord rated #6 wire roughly 50 feet or so and connect that to the junction boxe and have an extension cord holder mounted next to it so I could wrap it up when not in use. I would than cut the cord connector off the end of the welder and put a twistlock cord connector on the end (male) end put a (female) twistlock on the 50 footer. Twist locks are a little expensive but well worth it. Not sure if this is too late for you but if you need me please email me.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    884

    Default

    Originally posted by luckydog
    I hope all went well with your wiring project. I am an electrician and just purchased a 210. I have been thinking about this also. My thoughts are that I want to be able to move my millermatic around my shop without restrictions. My thoughts were to run my line to a junction box mounted either flush in the wall or surface mounted. I would then take a cord called an SJ cord rated #6 wire roughly 50 feet or so and connect that to the junction boxe and have an extension cord holder mounted next to it so I could wrap it up when not in use. I would than cut the cord connector off the end of the welder and put a twistlock cord connector on the end (male) end put a (female) twistlock on the 50 footer. Twist locks are a little expensive but well worth it. Not sure if this is too late for you but if you need me please email me.
    Twist-locks, especially the Hubbell brand, are a good idea for something like a welder.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Southeast TN
    Posts
    21

    Question circut for welder

    I am also fixing to purchase a MM210. I need to wire a circut in my shop for my welder. From reading this post and the downloadable owners manual, it looks like I need 6/3 w/ ground, a NEMA type 6-50R recepticle and a 50 amp breaker for my breaker box. I will be running this circut to the opposite side of my shop from the breaker box. I will mount the recepticle flush on the wall. Have I over looked anything or does that cover it?
    Thanks,
    Mike
    Mike

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Atco, NJ
    Posts
    11

    Default Titansfan

    Looks like you have it covered. I don't know how much you'll be moving the welder around your shop though. The twist locks, breaker, receptacles, and cords are expensive. I suggest again that you run the cord from your panel into the bottom of a 6x6x6 junction box that you can mount somewhere and then from the bottom again putting a connector in the box bring a cord back out lets say 25 feet for the sake of it. At the end of the cord put your twist lock female cap. On your welder keep the cord to 5 or 7 feet put the male end so that you can put it away or move it around without dragging that cord. Remember this is not an extenstion cord it is much bigger. Just a suggestion though. Let me know if you need any help. Oh and make sure you check the voltage for your taps. If it is in your garage at home it will be 230 volts but if it is in your work shop it could be 208-210 and it will make a difference.

    Rick
    Electricians local 351
    South Jersey

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Southeast TN
    Posts
    21

    Smile Luckydog

    Thanks for the info. I have seperate power out at my shop (2 utility bills ) so I guess the voltage will be @ 230. I don't plan on moving my welder around too much, but the info sounds like the way to go in case I need to move it around.
    Thanks again,
    Mike
    Mike

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