hey everyone! i'm new to this forum and i was having trouble and heard of this site on a tv show. My problem is I have rusty pipe and a galvanized cattle panel and i'm making a cattle pen out of it. I am having trouble with the vertical part. everything else goes in awesome but I am doing something wrong on the vertical part. the pipe thickness is schedule 10 so its easy to burn through which is my main problem. The welder i have is a bobcat 250. Thanks in advance for any opions. I'll post pictures tommorow so it will make more sense. Wondering what rod you would use and what amperage i would set it on?
Results 1 to 10 of 13
04-04-2013, 08:42 PM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
Having trouble welding galvanized to rusty pipe
04-04-2013, 08:57 PM #2
Use 3/32 6011 on DC+ at around 50 amps, adjust the amps up or down as needed. Start at the bottom and go uphill with a whipping motion. It will also help a lot if you grind the galvanized off and clean off some of the rust too
04-04-2013, 09:13 PM #3
You can also try it on dc-, some people prefer it over DC+ because it burns more crisp (kind of similar to 6010) . I use dc- with 6011 when I have a lot of gaps to fill
04-04-2013, 09:35 PM #4
04-04-2013, 09:57 PM #5
6011 is either or. Its more of a do it yourselfer kinda rod. A lot cheaper than 6010
04-05-2013, 07:06 AM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2004
- Milan Michigan
Unless I'm doing a root on pipe I always prefer 6011. and I agree with Weldon welding 3/32
Galvanize is a coating as well as rust so clean it up, gope the pipe to minimize the gap.
You also may want to use a method where you weld for a second, let it cool a second and restrike the arc and keep doing this untill your gap gets closer.
You might also want to do a weave then stop for 5 seconds and let it cool then do another while you stack them on one another forming a wide weld bead.
04-05-2013, 07:49 AM #7
As long as it wasn't a structural weld when I had gaps to big to fill I would cut or find a piece of steel that would fill the gap and weld over it, making it part of the weld.
Or run the sides down hand jumping from side to side so the weld would cool on one side as we welded the other. we called it spiderwebbing.
Last edited by tackit; 04-05-2013 at 07:52 AM.
04-05-2013, 11:21 AM #8Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
thanks everyone for the help! only question i have left is on my machine for the amps it just has one through 10. What does 50 mean? how do i figure it out? Am i missing something on the machine? below is what my machine looks like. thanks again!
04-05-2013, 11:44 AM #9Ed Conley
Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
Miller 125c Plasma 120v
SO 2020 Bender
You can call me Bacchus
04-05-2013, 12:54 PM #10
Set the middle/ or course adjustment to 40/100 amps and use the 1-10 to get to the 50 amps or whatever you decide up to 100 amps.
Looks like each line represents 10 amps on the 1-10 scale in the 40/100 amp course range scale. So the knob set on 5 = 50 amps ...set on 10 = 100 amps .. the 1-10 scale is for fine tuning.
On my 200 aead legends if I remember correctly I had to keep the fine tuning knob set to it's highest setting when using it for a generator, also you're not suppose to change welding modes while welding.
Important to use the right size welding lead if you want full power at a distance.
Changed due to 140 amp scale was wrong, it's 40 /100 scale
Last edited by tackit; 04-05-2013 at 02:22 PM.