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  1. #1

    Default Having trouble welding galvanized to rusty pipe

    hey everyone! i'm new to this forum and i was having trouble and heard of this site on a tv show. My problem is I have rusty pipe and a galvanized cattle panel and i'm making a cattle pen out of it. I am having trouble with the vertical part. everything else goes in awesome but I am doing something wrong on the vertical part. the pipe thickness is schedule 10 so its easy to burn through which is my main problem. The welder i have is a bobcat 250. Thanks in advance for any opions. I'll post pictures tommorow so it will make more sense. Wondering what rod you would use and what amperage i would set it on?

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Use 3/32 6011 on DC+ at around 50 amps, adjust the amps up or down as needed. Start at the bottom and go uphill with a whipping motion. It will also help a lot if you grind the galvanized off and clean off some of the rust too

  3. #3
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    Sep 2012
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    You can also try it on dc-, some people prefer it over DC+ because it burns more crisp (kind of similar to 6010) . I use dc- with 6011 when I have a lot of gaps to fill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
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    I like 3/32 or 1/8 6010 DC . Actually, I thought that 6011 was the same as 6010 but for AC.
    Check out the MILLER weld calculator.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...calculator.php

  5. #5
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    Sep 2012
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    6011 is either or. Its more of a do it yourselfer kinda rod. A lot cheaper than 6010

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
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    1,677

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    Unless I'm doing a root on pipe I always prefer 6011. and I agree with Weldon welding 3/32

    Galvanize is a coating as well as rust so clean it up, gope the pipe to minimize the gap.

    You also may want to use a method where you weld for a second, let it cool a second and restrike the arc and keep doing this untill your gap gets closer.

    You might also want to do a weave then stop for 5 seconds and let it cool then do another while you stack them on one another forming a wide weld bead.

    Good luck.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
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    As long as it wasn't a structural weld when I had gaps to big to fill I would cut or find a piece of steel that would fill the gap and weld over it, making it part of the weld.

    Or run the sides down hand jumping from side to side so the weld would cool on one side as we welded the other. we called it spiderwebbing.
    Last edited by tackit; 04-05-2013 at 06:52 AM.

  8. #8

    Default

    thanks everyone for the help! only question i have left is on my machine for the amps it just has one through 10. What does 50 mean? how do i figure it out? Am i missing something on the machine? below is what my machine looks like. thanks again!


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darrren Bartlett View Post
    thanks everyone for the help! only question i have left is on my machine for the amps it just has one through 10. What does 50 mean? how do i figure it out? Am i missing something on the machine? below is what my machine looks like. thanks again!

    On the right- that is for Fine control adjustments after you select the amperage range .

    http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o249336b_mil.pdf
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darrren Bartlett View Post
    thanks everyone for the help! only question i have left is on my machine for the amps it just has one through 10. What does 50 mean? how do i figure it out? Am i missing something on the machine? below is what my machine looks like. thanks again!

    The knob on the right is the fine adjustment. It is a percentage of the middle knob. #1 = 10% # 5 = 50% #8 = 80% etc. of the middle knob range.

    So if you set the middle knob at 100-250 amps, that gives you a 150 amp range. each number would be 10% of that range starting at 100.

    If you set it to 40-100 then the range would be 60.
    Last edited by MMW; 04-05-2013 at 07:39 PM.
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