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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    401

    Default

    Find info on spark test here:http://www.tpub.com/steelworker1/6.htm I found this in a thread about " how to identify between cast steel and forged steel." If the link doesn't show up search for the thread.--Meltedmetal

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Medford MA
    Posts
    542

    Default

    As others have said, a) It is possible and b) you really must find out what kind of metal it is as step 1.

    That said, you have said that you're a rank amateur. I suggest that you get good at controlling the weld puddle, your heat, and so on, before doing this. Until you're fairly good, you could turn the shaft into so much scrap. You definitely need to be careful and not warp the shaft; that probably means building up the area a little bit at a time on opposite sides (eg, deposit metal at 12:00, 6:00, 1:00, 7:00, etc), and let it cool before moving on to the next bit. Also MIG tends to be fairly fussy about the cleanliness of the base metal ... you might want to clean/grind/etc the area down to bright shiny metal before dragging out the welder. I also would not use fluxcore (which you indicated you would use) but rather MIG (no flux, with shielding gas) as it makes for a cleaner weld, reduced probability of slag inclusions, and so on.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    299

    Default

    Hey, that spark test page was pretty good. I have always just "sort of" used the sparks or a file to help me figure out what sort of metal I had at hand, but that explains and narrows it down pretty good. I think I'll save that one!
    Don J
    Reno, NV

    Never pick a fight with an old guy. Old guys are too smart to fight and get hurt. They'll just kill you and get it over with.

  4. #14

    Default

    Another great way to test metal is to use a magnet. I should attach a video but you can try youtube. I would tig weld the shaft, but build a fixture around the shaft to prevent warping.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Thanks for everyone's input.
    Looks like I have a little more homework before I dive in.
    ....maybe the best thing is to take it to an expert. If this was the only thing to put money out on then I wouldn't hesitate, but rebuilding this engine has a lot of individual money drops that are adding up.
    Homework time!

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Bossier Parish La.
    Posts
    549

    Default

    I'd say that is the porp shaft from the lower unit, correct? If so then it is going to be stainless steel, as evidenced by the bare metal in the right side of the picture.It should be turned down on a lathe to remove all the pits, then TIG welded and turned again to final diameter.
    If nothing else works out, you can check with Seawaymarine.com for a replacement. They specialize in "new old stock" outboard parts. You will need make, model, and serial numbers for them to look it up, but they have brand new old parts(OEM stuff) that dealers don't stock any more. Seals, shafts, bearings, rings, ignition parts, you name it and they have it for most old O/Bs, even back to the 50s.

  7. #17
    turbo38t Guest

    Default

    Silver solder works well for this too....

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    9

    Default

    So I took a shot at it (why not at least try I guess).
    I've welded and filed down a couple of times but not matter what, I get these marks left behind. Any thoughts?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Bossier Parish La.
    Posts
    549

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Merccooper View Post
    So I took a shot at it (why not at least try I guess).
    I've welded and filed down a couple of times but not matter what, I get these marks left behind. Any thoughts?
    Not exactly sure what the problem is, unless it's places where pitting was originally when you started, and didn't bond due to insufficient cleaning of that area. If all else fails you could contact seawaymarine.com to see if they have this shaft you need, they most likely will have the seals and bearings too.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Thanks for the suggestion Bistineau. I'm trying (have to!) save costs where possible. There are so many $50-$100 parts that the cost is going way, way up. I think I'll try again but with a higher heat.

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