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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    2

    Default Millermatic 212 and welding Sheet Metal/AutoBody... Is this too much?

    hey Guys...

    So.. I've wanted a welder my whole life. And wanted to learn to weld. I now have a mechanic shop, doing all types of work. My guys wanted me to get a welder to do some body repairs, and exhaust work. I want to learn to weld, and also plan do do some Fab work. (trailers, Benches, Stuff like that). I thought this seems to be a pretty bad ass Welder.

    So I bought it. After I got it, one of neighbors mentioned that its "too much" welder for the sheet metal/body work. And that it would "burn right through".

    I dont know anything about welding yet, but I would assume that it could be used for thin stuff with the correct settings right? Or is a Smaller welder actually better for that kinda stuff?

    thanks for your help! Looking forward to learning alot here!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    900

    Default

    You can turn it down as low as you need to. Most body shops I have been in had machines in the 185-250 amp range.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Northern Arizona
    Posts
    479

    Default

    For thin stuff you will want thin wire, .023 would be good. I would be content with only that welder if that is what my budget and space allowed. It has a high duty cycle and a wide range of thickness that it can weld. I would get some sheet metal that is representative of the body work you want to do and then practice so that you can get a warp free weld. I would also look at keeping a spool of .035 wire around for big stuff (bumpers, trailers, etc) as it can push a little more heat.

    I usually do not go around pushing brands of stuff (except miller!) around here, but I have been using HTP solid mig wire (er70s6) and I have been really impressed with it. It runs great and it is the cheapest thing I can find @ $1.50/# delivered. Also, you can use the big spools of wire so if you are going to be welding a lot I would buy it in the 30# spools.

    BTW, my recommendations are based on using c25 or 25% co2 and 75% argon gas (it is the same thing just two different ways to refer to it).

    Oh, and good choice with your welder and welcome!

    -Nate
    MillerMatic 251
    CST 280 w/tig torch
    HF-251-D1
    Cutmaster 42
    Victor Journeyman OA

    A rockcrawler, er money pit, in progress...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks guys!!! Bought some .023 wire, an Elite Helmet, and some gloves... We'll see what happens!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,860

    Default

    Just a heads up
    Just because it can weld thinner material doesn't mean you can just pull the trigger and weld a long joint.

    Body panels will warp like a mofo

    Your neighbor didn't offer to take the MM212 that can't weld sheet metal off your hands at a cheap price did he?
    Ed Conley
    http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
    MM252
    MM211
    Passport Plus w/Spool Gun
    TA185
    Miller 125c Plasma 120v
    O/A set
    SO 2020 Bender
    You can call me Bacchus

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,908

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by elvis View Post
    I have been using HTP solid mig wire (er70s6) and I have been really impressed with it. It runs great and it is the cheapest thing I can find @ $1.50/# delivered.
    I have been using the .030 htp for 6+ years and i see nothing better for the price. I have some Crown Alloys silcone bronze in .023 and with argon thats the ticket for auto sheetmetal...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Northern Arizona
    Posts
    479

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aametalmaster View Post
    I have been using the .030 htp for 6+ years and i see nothing better for the price. I have some Crown Alloys silcone bronze in .023 and with argon thats the ticket for auto sheetmetal...Bob
    I never thought of SB for auto sheet metal. That is a great idea! I don't do that work much, but I'll pick some up and "find an excuse" to use it!
    MillerMatic 251
    CST 280 w/tig torch
    HF-251-D1
    Cutmaster 42
    Victor Journeyman OA

    A rockcrawler, er money pit, in progress...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    555

    Default

    Hey guys, how come you would prefer the silicone bronze, and why particularly for auto body?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,908

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Cgotto6 View Post
    Hey guys, how come you would prefer the silicone bronze, and why particularly for auto body?
    Auto body metal is perfect since its thin. The proper term would be mig brazing since the sil bronze doesn't melt the parent metals like steel wire does. It does like a thin gap to fill like silver solder. It seems to be strong as i have seen some tests and do use it myself. I welded a geo tracker fender bottom to a fender and the other bottom was cut from another fender. Left some overlap and ran a bead right across it. Barely burned the coating off the backside and the metal was only .024 thick when i measured it. here is an article that got me hooked a few years ago...Bob
    http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/brazing.htm
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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