Need advice on bracket supports

[Terp]

Hey Everybody,
What U see here is the front bracket that holds the lower bar in a triangulated 4 bar rear suspension. There was no way to weld to the bottom of the frame, brackets for running boards, so this is how I was told to mount them.

Will welding the wings to the frame (red lines), as well as along the bottom seam where the bracket sits on top of the frame lip, be strong enough to hold this suspension component or should I add plates someplace?

This is a street rod, (39 Chevy) not a race car. Suspension will be ShockWaves by Ride Tech. Any advice is appreciated.

[aametalmaster]

I would add some more metal to go the width of the bracket at least. Just my thoughts...Bob

[MMW]

First question I have is how thick is the frame rail itself? If you weld the wings as you show & the frame is not thick enough it will tear the rail itself. you can get around this by adding a flat plate over the rail to stiffen it. Maybe about 3 or 4" on each side of the bracket & just shy of flush on top & bottom. Weld it all the way around plus plug weld several times in the mid section. Then weld the bracket to this plate. The wings will help tremendously as will a third gusset in the middle going up. (something that looks like the wings but centered)

Looking at it again I think I'm misunderstanding you. The bracket already has small wings (gussets). Make the wings bigger from the top point to the inner most part of the bracket. Again it all depends on how thick the frame rail is.

Wow 30 seconds in person & I could show you but trying to explain is difficult.

[Terp]

I would add some more metal to go the width of the bracket at least. Just my thoughts...Bob

Thanks Bob. Do you mean like this(white line in image)

[elvis]

I would put a gusset on the bottom of the frame rail to the side of the bracket and then box the top in a bit. You could box it with something like. It will just help to spread the load out a bit.

Also, good point on the thickness of the frame rail. You can make the bracket nice and strong but if the frame just tears off it doesn't matter.

With as long as the bracket is and how far below the frame it drops I would want something to stiffen it side to side. Are the brackets made from 3/16? I think 1/8" would be plenty for boxing anything in. You could also add speed holes and stuff to save a little weight while still making it stronger.

[Terp]

I would put a gusset on the bottom of the frame rail to the side of the bracket and then box the top in a bit. You could box it with something like. It will just help to spread the load out a bit.

Also, good point on the thickness of the frame rail. You can make the bracket nice and strong but if the frame just tears off it doesn't matter.

With as long as the bracket is and how far below the frame it drops I would want something to stiffen it side to side. Are the brackets made from 3/16? I think 1/8" would be plenty for boxing anything in. You could also add speed holes and stuff to save a little weight while still making it stronger.

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking that a gusset on the bottom might be needed. I did box the back in. You can see the weld in the picture on the left. Do you think boxing the front is a good idea also. I did use 1/8" plate to box.

[elvis]

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking that a gusset on the bottom might be needed. I did box the back in. You can see the weld in the picture on the left. Do you think boxing the front is a good idea also. I did use 1/8" plate to box.

It is easier to cut a small gusset and install it now than deal with it ripped off later!

Okay, so I am looking at the first picture you posted as a reference.

On the "U" shaped piece with red lines around it: I would box this somehow. Your vertical risers have a funny shape so that might be hard. A third "middle" vertical gusset would help. Basically it would spread the load out. That lower arm will take a good amount of front to back force and what is stopping it from twisting?

On the arm of the bracket where the joint is: I see the front boxed. I would put a small piece on the back and weld it in place. You could make it look nice with a shape like ")(" where the center is connected. It would just help that part of the bracket resist twisting.

How much horse power is this system supporting? Also, what kind of joints are those? Do my suggestions make sense? I don't think you need to add much material. Just a little bit in a few spots and it should be solid!

[Terp]

On the arm of the bracket where the joint is: I see the front boxed. I would put a small piece on the back and weld it in place. You could make it look nice with a shape like ")(" where the center is connected. It would just help that part of the bracket resist twisting.

I'm really unclear on where I should box. Do you mean that I should close the entire bracket in? Looks aren't that important, you will never see this unless the car is on a lift.

How much horse power is this system supporting? Also, what kind of joints are those? Do my suggestions make sense? I don't think you need to add much material. Just a little bit in a few spots and it should be solid!

Engine is an LT4 with a mild cam. Probably somewhere around 385-400HP. I'm at the age where I'm not gonna be stickin my foot in it, well, not all the time anyway Trans is 4L80. The joints came with the bars from Ride Tech. I ordered a their triangulated 4 bar setup for air ride. Although I didn't order polished stainless, that is what they sent me I was thinking that it (the brackets) needed some gusseting, I just wasn't sure where.

A few more pictures for reference.

[walker]

Just my opinion, but the bracket seems plenty stout, as it has 3 sides. It does seem a bit long, but not overly I suppose. So long as the part that hangs down is fully welded to the upper piece, I see no problem with your plan. There are a ton of hot rods on the road with a lot less metal and weld holding their 4 bars on. You might register over on The Hamb board over at Jalopy journal. They are usually more traditional, so you may not want to mention the LT4. Lot of knowledgeable folks there.

[oldtimer]

The side walls of the chevy frames are not all that thick. I would weld a doubler to the frame and then weld the bracket to it. Unless you are going to run huge power and torque you should be good to go. I am doing a 36 chev coupe and need a passenger side door. If you have any leads where I can find one it would be greatly appreciated. Larry