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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Thank you guys, again, for the replies. Another brief update. This morning I changed the outlet, and did discover the one being replaced had something wrong with it. After removing it I could hear something rattling inside. Since replacing it the welder has yet to shut off. Let's hope it is as simple as that and stays that way. I plan to use it more tomorrow and hopefully Monday. I'll know more sure sure then.

    Since a lot of time has been taken to reply, info shared, and questions asked, I will do my best to answer them.

    1- I did call the Miller tech line before taking it into service. I was on the phone with them for all of a couple of minutes, and very little information was gained other than "the power switch is a circuit breaker (already learned from previously reading on this forum/ thread) and "I'm not sure what is wrong. Better take it in for service. Here's your local authorized rep...." The good news is there was no service charge as my welder is still covered under a 3 year warranty.

    2- My garage currently has 50 amp service. There are 2-30 amp fuses ganged up to create the 220v (single phase). This was installed to wire directly to my compressor (there is a 220v switch wired in to cut power off to the compressor so it's not always "on") with 14-2 copper wire. Also shared by the same 2-30 amp fuses is my dedicated welder outlet, which is about 3 feet from the breaker box (14-3). Neither the outlet nor the compressor share wires. Both the welder and the compressor are rated for a 30 amp draw. This is why I never run them at the same time. Yes, I should (and at some point will) have the house professionally upgraded to 100 amp service so each can have their own dedicated circuit. Until then I must rely on my near obsessive compulsive habits to not run them together to trip the circuit or overload the wires.

    3- The welding extension cord I built is made with 10-3 wire. It's I think 25' long. I only use this when I have to.

    4- No, I am not a certified electrician. I'm a toy designer of 16+ years in this industry, and an avid car nut.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Corpus Christi, Texas
    Posts
    12

    Default glad it was the users fault and not miller lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Tuske427 View Post
    Thank you guys, again, for the replies. Another brief update. This morning I changed the outlet, and did discover the one being replaced had something wrong with it. After removing it I could hear something rattling inside. Since replacing it the welder has yet to shut off. Let's hope it is as simple as that and stays that way. I plan to use it more tomorrow and hopefully Monday. I'll know more sure sure then.

    Since a lot of time has been taken to reply, info shared, and questions asked, I will do my best to answer them.

    1- I did call the Miller tech line before taking it into service. I was on the phone with them for all of a couple of minutes, and very little information was gained other than "the power switch is a circuit breaker (already learned from previously reading on this forum/ thread) and "I'm not sure what is wrong. Better take it in for service. Here's your local authorized rep...." The good news is there was no service charge as my welder is still covered under a 3 year warranty.

    2- My garage currently has 50 amp service. There are 2-30 amp fuses ganged up to create the 220v (single phase). This was installed to wire directly to my compressor (there is a 220v switch wired in to cut power off to the compressor so it's not always "on") with 14-2 copper wire. Also shared by the same 2-30 amp fuses is my dedicated welder outlet, which is about 3 feet from the breaker box (14-3). Neither the outlet nor the compressor share wires. Both the welder and the compressor are rated for a 30 amp draw. This is why I never run them at the same time. Yes, I should (and at some point will) have the house professionally upgraded to 100 amp service so each can have their own dedicated circuit. Until then I must rely on my near obsessive compulsive habits to not run them together to trip the circuit or overload the wires.

    3- The welding extension cord I built is made with 10-3 wire. It's I think 25' long. I only use this when I have to.

    4- No, I am not a certified electrician. I'm a toy designer of 16+ years in this industry, and an avid car nut.
    K, regarding the miller service rep not workin out for ya I've run into the same thing lol, one time you get a new not so season'd guy and next time you may get the guy that was there before that machine was even thought up. been there done that no harm done at least you tried that avenue before dealing with down time and transporting yer machine to a shop. Oh I hope the 14-3 you stated for the fake dedicated outlet (meaning that circuit is being shared with your compressor, though compressor is not in use while welder is in use) to your 30 amp draw machine is a typo cause min 30 amp wiring would be a #10-3 I don't care how short it is... the #10 extention was fine for that amount of feet just hope the other is a typo .. hey we all do it. No biggie not being a certified electrician for this small job just do yer home work before messin with it and you won't have any probs dedicating it all by yer self. always nice when its something simple and no more cost than a outlet and some of yer time WE SHOULD ALL BE so FORTUNATE!now as for that outlet going bad so soon you may want to look into getting something of a diff brand or something cause ya just don't see outlets that don't get unplugged often and that were installed with good tight connection go out everyday and if you really wanna end it, use that 25' extention and hard wire to the junction box and no outlet needed though you lose portability if you wanna unplug and take it somewhere.

  3. #23

    Default

    with 14-2 copper wire
    1. 14-2 copper wire is only rated for 15 amps and is NOT appropriate for the compressor or the welder.

    2. The 10-3 extension cord is fine and is NOT the problem.

    3. The two 30 amp fuses across a 240V line only gives you 30 amps, NOT 60.
    Double fuses/breakers in the panel doubles the voltage from 120 to 240, it DOES NOT double the amperage. The value of the fuse is the amperage, whether you have one fuse or two.

    4. You should NOT run ANYTHING on 14 gage wire with 30 amp fuses. You could start a fire and burn your house down. This is also a violation of the electrical code. If you want a 30 amp circuit, you MUST use #10 wire (or heavier).

    5. Please have an electrician or a knowledgeable person run a properly wired circuit for you.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    10

    Default

    yeesh, guess there is some re-wiring to do tomorrow. OK, ten gauge it is.

    And the welder stayed on today, so I am also concluding it is the user error (mine/ my outlet) and not the product.

    Thank you

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    10

    Default update- good news

    It turns out I misspoke- I have had 10 gauge wire in my garage the whole time. I know this now because:

    1- I purchased a roll of 10-2 wire this morning (and a 30 amp 2 pole switch) and when I bought it home I compared it to the wire I already have- it's the same thing. Same color, same brand, everything. (It was purchased at the same store)

    2- I also cut a tip off at the end and compared wire thicknesses. Same...

    3- I also got a wire gauge out- they both read as 10 gauge.

    A bit of history on this- the compressor was wired in first and set up with the ganged 30 amp fuse. My neighbor helped me with this (who is more up on AC electrical)

    So I think I'm good. Thanks again everyone for all of your help!

    Until my next issue...

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    588

    Default

    Sounds like you are fine to me. You have fuses, not breakers in your garage panel? Just curious.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cgotto6 View Post
    Sounds like you are fine to me. You have fuses, not breakers in your garage panel? Just curious.
    I have the ones that flip like a switch. (not glass screw in fuses)

    The previous owner of this house had upgraded the house, and presumably the wiring as my garage has it's own 50 amp box.

  8. #28

    Default Miller 211 stop working

    My 2 year old Miller 211 welder stops working/welding ??? I cleaned the plugs. Plugged into good wire #10 wire. Worked GREAT for 2yrs, but now it stops about 1 to 2 inchs out of the gun as I'm welding. Them pull the trigger and it starts welding, the machine stays running, it stops feeding the wire out. If it is the drive wheel ok I'll get it fixed. It does the same thing when I have the the spool gun on it. I have done a lot of welding with this little welder, I like it and would like it working ASAP.Any one had out there have the same problem?????

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